On the Camino de Santiago from Fulda to Frankfurt

Finally an adventure again

We know longing: the longing for family at home, which is usually satisfied at regular intervals. The longing for distance, where big and small adventures await us. The longing for something new that slumbers somewhere and wants to be discovered. But the longing to even make a plan again, which has a real chance of being implemented, was completely unknown to us.

Although we have come through the corona pandemic very lightly (none of our loved ones have been seriously ill or - even worse - died. We still have a roof over our heads and do not have to worry about our future and with a few restrictions we are also financially well off), the past months have also left their mark on us. The omnipresent uncertainty, constantly new, partly incomprehensible rules and social isolation have led to lethargy and fatigue. Constant hoping, deep disappointments and always new attempts to maintain morale, to remain positive and optimistic despite all worries, are wearing us down in the long run. And suddenly even the tiniest little thing weighs disproportionately heavy. The battery is simply empty.

The first vaccinations and the resulting easing in everyday life are of course also the straw we cling to. Visits to and from family members lift our spirits and we dare to expand our circle of contacts a little bit again. We haven't seen Noemi and her two mice Amelie and Sofia in ages. It's all the more beautiful to realize how well the chemistry still fits with young and old even after a long break. And while an endless number of words are being exchanged, Noemi raves about her new passion for cycling and reports about her plans to cycle part of the Camino de Santiago, I suddenly hear myself asking if I can join her. Oops. Did I really just say that? Just a year ago, it would never have occurred to me to invite myself somewhere. But it's too late. The words are out. The longing was apparently really very great.

A few days later actions follow: suddenly I am part of a group of six crazies (one of them even travels from Berlin) with different backgrounds and training conditions, who want to cycle from Fulda to Frankfurt. Oh dear. That's far!!! That's 118 km!!! On an uncomfortable bicycle saddle! I probably can't get out of this, but maybe I can motivate Fux to come along. Shared suffering is half the suffering. He is of course immediately enthusiastic. I could have guessed that. He also doesn't have to worry about falling off the bike due to exhaustion at some point. In a flash, an Ida handover with Grandma Gunni and Grandpa Alois on the motorway is organized, and we have a free weekend in our calendar. And suddenly we feel it again: the anticipation! Finally! After a long period of abstinence, a little adventure is waiting on our doorstep.

With good planning nothing can go wrong...

So the plan is as follows: We want to cycle comfortably following the Via Regia from Fulda to Frankfurt and get a stamp in our pilgrim's passport at each start in Fulda, in Steinau an der Straße, Bad Soden/Salmünster, Gründau, Langenselbold and at the destination in Frankfurt.

Is that currently allowed? Uhm, no idea. But honestly, only the people from Munich were crazy enough to temporarily prohibit cycling outdoors. Because of breathing. Doesn't really need any further comment.

Road bike tour Camino de Santiago Fulda - Frankfurt

According to the detailed tour profile, only the first 35 km through the Fulda mountains are demanding. Somewhere a 12% climb is waiting for us ("It has to burn!"). But only for four meters. Easy peasy. After that, it's all downhill. According to Lars, you can even ride home on a beer bike. We have our doubts, but since he has the most experience on longer distances, we trust him for now and focus on the preparations.

The scallops have been ordered, the pilgrim's passports for Noemi and Toni (another highly motivated cyclist) have been obtained, and a great tour map with good explanations has been studied. Lars and I watch the video from hr about pilgrimage in Hesse again to get in the mood for the tour.

HR documentation: Self-experiment pilgrimage - on the Camino de Santiago from Fulda to Frankfurt

Hesse is really beautiful, and we are looking forward to exploring our chosen home and to new experiences while pilgrimaging. It goes through idyllic villages, along the Kinzig river, and through thinly populated landscapes. Wonderful. Pure nature. In the video, it is said that "the way gives you so many impulses [...] that sometimes you just have to be silent". For Noemi, this will certainly be a new experience.

Now we just have to arrange the train journey and then everything is in the bag. Shouldn't be that difficult, right? Wrong: In the ICE, only two bicycles are allowed. Hmm. Well, you can somehow understand that due to the division of the train compartments. But it doesn't matter, we wanted to travel with a regional train anyway. But the train couldn't provide any information about that. We were told to contact the local provider. Also not tragic. After all, joy cannot be clouded. At RMV, they tell us that we have to register the bicycles. But they cannot promise that they will be taken along. After all, it's Pentecost weekend. They expect increased traffic. In the worst case, we simply wouldn't be allowed to travel. Where were these employees in the past months? Certainly not on their own trains. Because they are empty! Even during peak hours, there is enough space in the trains to waltz, so why do they believe that with announced temperatures of 15 degrees, on a Saturday morning at 08:16, their regional train to Bebra will be bursting at the seams? Oh, you don't know Bebra? How come? The way RMV sees it, this town in Thuringia is THE destination for a stormy Pentecost weekend and should therefore be at the top of every travel list.

In the end, Noemi's dad Carlos is so kind and drives our bikes to Fulda with his van, while the excited troop follows by train without bikes. And even after many anxious glances at the weather forecast, which changes every hour and varies greatly depending on the source, the rain that was announced for the day before the tour actually disappeared. Although consistently 54 km/h winds from the southwest are announced, but just before giving up is not an option.

"But only those who pray!"

Early in the morning we meet at the Niederrad S-Bahn station and to our dismay we find out that the trains are not running due to people on the tracks. For a brief moment, we are completely lost without our bikes, but we quickly regain composure, change our plans, and spontaneously board the next tram. Nothing can stop us! It's overcast but dry and occasionally we even see some blue sky. Looks good.

When we arrive in Fulda, we collect our bikes, ignore Carlos' objection that it is a bit cold and windy, and bravely ignore the outside temperature of 10 degrees Celsius. We even manage to smile for the group photo before the start.

We find the first place for the stamp via a detour. The surroundings of Fulda Cathedral are actually very pretty (due to the search, we explored more streets than planned, but we have plenty of time and won't be deterred). A good start. The plan is to stamp quickly and finally get going. "You only get a stamp if you pray!" the man at Michaeliskapelle informs us. Okay then, there's nothing wrong with asking for health and a little sunshine. Let's do it. It is absolutely silent in the chapel and everyone is waiting to see who has the courage to stand up first again. Not that there is a minimum time for a stamp prayer. Thank goodness even the earthly representative has no objection to the length of our prayers, and we have the first proof in our passport.

The journey is the destination

It is said that those who pilgrimage have a certain reason to set off. In the past, the end point of a journey was usually a holy place, and the pilgrimage was motivated by religious reasons. Today, people often set out simply to leave everyday life behind, to be close to nature, to gain new experiences, or to embark on a journey to oneself and restore inner balance. No matter what the background is, the journey is always the destination.

It's pouring rain and the air temperature drops to at least -10°C. By now, the smile on our faces has frozen. Apparently, the length of the prayer did not please the heavenly representative at all. Or maybe he is on Pentecost vacation. Most likely. And by train to Bebra.

In general, the bike path is incredibly well developed. A smooth surface, excellent signage, and only a few sections are to be ridden on a road in traffic. Actually, ideal conditions. Furthermore, the landscape is really as beautiful as the hr report suggested: green orchards full of buttercups, shady forests, and romantic half-timbered towns.

In retrospect, I am sure that we have made even more mistakes than just a too short prayer. Because two hours of unannounced continuous rain, hellish gusts of wind, and technical problems did not give us a chance to enjoy the landscape. Triec had to struggle uphill in the highest gear. When she reached the top, her friendly fellow riders kindly helped her shift down again. This resulted in her not being able to shift up again during the descent and having to roll down in the lowest gear.

Toni, on the other hand, had to pump himself warm several times with the 10cm pump because his rear tire simply wouldn't hold the air. Hats off to both of them for not letting themselves be discouraged. Onwards. The journey is the destination. We fight against the headwind inch by inch.

At the Brüder Grimm-Haus in Steinau, we want to collect the first stamp. Unfortunately, the museum is closed, but two telephone numbers are given, but no one answers them. We take a proof photo as a substitute for the stamp and continue cycling. We have to be in Bad Soden by 1:00 p.m. to at least get a stamp there.

Just missed it. Only around 2:00 p.m. do we make it to our second destination. 4:15 hours for just under 45 km. Not good. Triec loses the battle against the miserable weather and takes the next train, while the rest of the team heads to Gründau, where stamping is possible until 5:00 p.m. But no chance.

Due to the nasty headwind, our strength diminishes rapidly and we need many breaks. Caught between a rock and a hard place: breaks are necessary to recharge our batteries (and at some point, all the energy bars have to be eaten).

But in this weather, you get cold too quickly. Lars is actually trembling like a leaf at times, and I fear that we will be the next ones to throw in the towel.

In addition, with each stop, it becomes more difficult for our legs to pedal properly again. However, at some point, Meli realizes that the breaks seem to be the only time we are granted sunshine. Because as soon as we sit back in the saddle, the heavens open and we get the next involuntary shower.

Maybe this is also the way the Holy Father tells us that pilgrimage is meant to take place on foot, not on two wheels. Who knows. The ways of the Lord are indeed unfathomable.

"Through his performance one should make progress, not through his pushing." Plautus

Apparently, Plautus never had to experience a physical limit on a bicycle. Because we can testify: even with pushing, you can make progress. Along the way, I asked the unwavering optimist Noemi if she could still laugh. Yes, she can still laugh, but she can no longer speak. So the Camino de Santiago has even silenced her.

However, by now we are all driven by ambition. We have not let anything stop us, now we want to reach our destination. Driven by René's antics (yes, apparently it wasn't exhausting enough for the gentlemen, they still had the strength for nonsense on the bike and a few extra laps), we eventually ride over a hill and see the skyline in front of us. I have never been so happy to see Frankfurt. What motivation. We will manage the last 20 kilometers as well. Now more than ever.

After eleven hours and 124 km, we are home. Exhausted, with only one stamp, but proud as can be.

We should all bow to ourselves: at times, each of us was at our limit. Whether it was physical or mental. We pushed ourselves beyond our limits in some cases, but we also showed the courage to accept our own limits and to put our health first and not be ashamed of it. Each of us is therefore richer in valuable experience after yesterday. So I would say: mission accomplished.