Mühlviertel, Moldautal, South Bohemia, and Waldviertel

Day 25 - June 30: Haidmühle - St. Oswald - Vyšši Brod 80 km

From our beautiful, old inn Strohmaier with the extremely friendly hostess in Haidmühle, it is not far to the border crossing. There awaits us the shortest international railway line in the world with a length of 105 m. The railway line was brought from the Czech side to the border in 1990 but could not be continued due to expropriation on the German side. You can now take a little train from Czech Republic to Germany on the remaining section of the old railway embankment - but without being able to get off. Journey time 24 seconds! We drive on the Czech side along the railway line and enjoy the well-asphalted paths, even if it goes slightly uphill. Here we meet some cyclists who take advantage of the opportunities for scenic bike tours on good paths through the national park. It goes through a wonderful, untouched landscape and past the demolished village Glöckelberg, of which only the church remains. Shortly afterwards, we cross the border and cycle along the Canal Cycle Path on the Austrian side. The Schwarzenberger Schwemmkanal is a technical masterpiece, as it overcame the European watershed between the East and North Sea and the Black Sea and enabled the delivery of firewood from the Bohemian Forest via the Danube to Vienna. Shortly before St. Oswald, we still pass through a strip of Czech territory and get lost briefly due to a lack of signage (once again!). Before the steep descent to St. Oswald, an artwork reminds us of the Iron Curtain, the interrupted extension cord. We now ride downhill for several kilometers, which we have to climb again on the other side. Our guide is no help and we groan about the never-ending ascents that we have to overcome in part by walking and pushing the bike. At the Czech border, it becomes passable again, and we even come across a small guesthouse. Finally, a coffee break again! Strengthened, we set off for Višši Brod, the former Hohenfurth. But we would not be in the Bohemian Forest if there weren't a steep climb on our way. We pass the demolished village of Kapellen, of which a fountain and a cross can still be seen. Just as it goes up, we can now race downhill. Suddenly, out of nowhere, the town of Višši Brod appears, which is mainly known for its monastery, which was economically important until the 20th century.

Day 26 - July 1: Vyšši Brod - Rozmberk, Čeśke Krumlov - Veleśin - Trihovy Swine - Gmünd 95 km

We realize that the UNESCO World Heritage site Krumlau on the Moldau is only 30 km away and that we will meet EuroVelo13 again from Nove Hrady. In doing so, we make two mistakes that mean additional effort:

- the Moldau Valley Cycle Path over 32 km is not a river path (we see the Moldau briefly after 20 km and in Krumlau) but a path above the Moldau Valley with steep climbs. We curse from time to time because it hurts so much. Dominique curses loudly that she would like to end the tour and just sit on the train, which I fully understand. It is now the 12th consecutive day on which we climb more than 1000 meters. The first one was in the Harz Mountains - it was a long time ago!

At least the visit to Krumlau is worth it, with its many beautiful, old citizen houses from the 16th century, the market square, and the castle with the imposing bell tower towering above everything. We enjoy the atmosphere in the city, the street music, and the passing boats on the Moldau. When we continue our journey, we meet the people from Basel again, who have ended their tour for today. We still have about 60 km to go!

- This is where the second mistake lies because we still have to master some meters of altitude (fortunately, the climbs are not as long and steep anymore) and we are caught in the predicted thunderstorm in the evening. Before that, we cycle through remote areas again and are very lucky that the bridge master lets us through a bridge construction site, even though it is sometimes very narrow and we have to take off the luggage. Just as we have decided to ride to Gmünd and have booked accommodation there, it starts pouring rain. While looking for shelter, I get stuck in the click pedal and roll down the slope when I fall. Nothing happens! It is very difficult to track the route on the mobile phone in the rain (we miss our TEASI), but at a shelter, we can plan the further route. Luckily, it is steadily downhill to České Velenice, the Czech part of Gmünd, so that we reach Gmünd via the former border crossings. Once again, we are glad to have reached the daily destination after 95 km and 1400 meters of altitude.

Day 27 - July 2: Gmünd - Nová Bystrice - Slavonice 85 km

Current status: 2510 km

It is the day of many border crossings between Czech Republic and Austria, we change sides at least six times without encountering anyone or being bothered by border fences or strict controls. Thank you, Europe!

Right in the morning, we go from Gmünd to the Czech side and then on asphalted paths through the forests of South Bohemia towards the north, past lonely ponds again and again. We are amazed by the large number of cyclists we encounter. It is impressive how many parents manage to motivate their children to ride a bike. Shortly before Stankov, we have to search for the right way several times and then switch to the Austrian side into the Waldviertel for the next ten kilometers after some climbing and then back to Czech Republic. There we are welcomed with a double-sided sign that makes the hearts of EuroVelo cyclists rejoice (see photos). As usual, the cycle paths on the Czech side are significantly worse and more suitable for MTBs, but our bikes handle everything well so far. We take a break in Nova Bystrice, clarify the further journey, and book a hotel in Slavonice, which later proves to be a very good decision. We cross the border at Grametten at a former large border station that is no longer needed today. What luck! On the scenic borderland path, we roll through the hemp village of Reingers, over Czech territory, and then into Ilmau in Austria. We still have some meters of altitude to master until we reach Stave Mesto, a Czech center for biathlon. The last kilometers to the Moravian Slavonice are not far anymore, and we are glad that we have booked our room because the town with its beautiful house facades with ornamental and figural sgraffiti attracts many tourists.