Day 8: From Hafling to the Schnalstal Glacier

October 16, 2021

The alarm goes off at 7 o'clock. After breakfast, we pack our remaining things and load the car.

After saying goodbye to Sandra, Peter, and the many animals at the Gfreinhhof, we head off towards Merano around 9 o'clock.

The weather is fantastic again - blue sky and sunshine!!! Woohoo, now comes the second part of our autumn vacation!

In Merano, we have to take a rapid test at the pharmacy with the kids. It's quite crowded, but this time we receive the test result (both 'negative') much faster by email than last time.

After the test, we go to the two-story Sparmarkt and buy some drinks and snacks for the next few days, as well as some things for a picnic today afternoon.

We drive through Merano towards the Reschen Pass, where we came a week ago. Today is Saturday - arrival and departure traffic. As soon as we are out of Merano, we are stuck in traffic. Great….

Our navigation system shows an accident, so we decide to take a detour. Although the landscape is beautiful, the many curves quickly become a problem for our son. I manage to leave the crowded road in time and stop in a driveway before our son's stomach contents end up in the fully packed car 🤮🥴🤢

Now we have to wait for a while until his stomach calms down. While my husband takes a short walk with our son, I check Google Maps to see what is nearby.

The Partschins Waterfall is just around the corner. We slowly drive up the steep, winding road to the parking lot, and from there we hike up a steep path to the base of the waterfall.

Unfortunately, part of the trail has been washed away by a landslide, so it is no longer possible to get close to the waterfall (officially closed), but the view of the waterfall is still beautiful.

After the short stop, we continue towards the Schnalstal. Once again, we face many curves, but the Vomex syrup seems to be working for our son.

The sun is shining, and halfway to Kurzras, we decide to stop at a small parking lot by the roadside and have a picnic. We brought blankets and sit in the sun, watching the cows on the meadow opposite us "galloping" around - yes, they are indeed very agile cows 🐄🐂🐄😂

After the lunch picnic, we arrive at the ski village of Kurzras at the foot of the Schnalstal Glacier around 1:30 pm.

We have booked a family room at the Glacier Grawand Hotel on top of the glacier for the next few days.

Sleeping at 3,212m sounded extremely exciting, so we booked the glacier hotel at the top! You can't be closer to the slopes. We are really excited!

At the lift ticket counter, we buy ski passes for the next 5 days and receive the uphill ticket for today, including the key for the underground garage where we can park our car.

But first, we go to the ski rental and rent ski equipment for the kids.

Afterwards, we head to the gondola, where we get a trolley for our luggage. Fully loaded, we push the trolley into the gondola waiting area and drive the car into the underground garage. Now we're ready to go!

We eagerly wait for the full gondola to arrive, bringing down a lot of skiers from the glacier. Once everyone has gotten off, it's our turn. We push our fully loaded trolley into the gondola and get in - we're alone!

A gondola ride just for us - yeah! However, we still keep our masks on. The Schnalstal Glacier Cable Car is the highest cable car in South Tyrol. It covers a height difference of 1,201 meters in six minutes of travel time - we're excited!

The weather is still wonderful, and we soar over barren rocks by cable car to the Hotel Grawand.

We arrive at the top at 2:30 pm and catch a first glimpse of the glacier and the slopes! Everything is filled with slalom poles, making it clear that intensive training is currently taking place here.

We check into the hotel and find our family room - the only room of its kind - and unfortunately, the only room without the huge panoramic windows overlooking the surrounding mountains. I'm briefly disappointed when we enter the room with the small window at the end of the room. Otherwise, it looks freshly renovated, the bathroom is new and modern, and the kids' "cabin," a small separate 2-bed room separated from the main room by folding doors, is nice and bright. We notice that no one has slept here for a while when I try to open the windows for some fresh air.

There are spider webs and dust on the curtains everywhere, and there is actually a centimeter-thick layer of dust in front of the window. Yuck! The cleaning staff hasn't cleaned here in a while. I clean the curtains with damp paper and remove the dust, then quickly unpack our things. Damn it - we forgot our shoes!!!

Oh no - the bag with the Crocs, hiking shoes, ski socks, and gloves is still in the trunk of our car! 🙈🙈🙈

Oh well - nothing we can do, so my husband and I have to take the gondola back down and retrieve the remaining items, while the kids stay in the room.....

Our mountain-valley ticket doesn't work, but the nice man from the gondola lets us pass and allows us to board. The gondola is full - we squeeze into it with a group of teenagers who apparently do racing training up here. They don't take the mask requirement very seriously, most of the kids don't wear them or only wear them over their mouths. We stand by the window and look outside - it's only 6 minutes down...

Quickly to the underground garage (of course, we need the key again, which the lift attendant hands us once more), retrieve the bag, and go back to the gondola. Again, our ticket doesn't work, but the lift operator already knows us and lets us into the gondola again. We're all alone going back up.

We need a little break after the stressful journey. We treat ourselves to a latte macchiato, while the kids have a hot chocolate, and we take a seat on the sun terrace. Wow, it's so cool up here!!!

Beforehand, we read that the body can have problems with the altitude - altitude sickness. So, we should take it slow, avoid any physical activity before the first night at altitude, and refrain from consuming alcohol...

That was the theory….

Of course, my husband and son can't sit still, they explore the hotel roof (snow!!) and want to walk the ridge trail to the sculpture by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. I mention that it would be best if we didn't do anything today and just sit in the sun, but no, the gentlemen want to "move around."

While our daughter goes back to the room, I go down the stairs from the terrace to the snow and take a look at the ridge walk. The Panorama Ridge is indicated with 35 minutes of walking time. Let's see.

As I suffer from a fear of heights, I gladly skip the narrow path on the ridge, which is partly covered in knee-deep snow and slippery and icy in the first meters. I don't think it's a good idea, but what can I say, the boys still walk ahead. I walk a bit with them before it goes onto the ridge and take a few pictures.

A short time later, I see my husband waving. I wave back.

Hm, no, it's a gesture signaling me to come. Oh no - I don't want to….

Our son is already quite a distance further along the ridge when I reach my husband. He complains that he feels dizzy and completely out of breath, his heart is racing. Oh boy! I told you!!! Altitude sickness!!!

He stands still, wanting to rest, so now I have to trek after our son along the ridge. Oh my goodness..

After only a few meters, my feet are already wet as I trudge through the knee-deep snow. Our son kindly waits for me. Walking on the snowy ridge is not easy, and I don't like to look down to the left or right.

We reach the sculpture and enjoy the view. Wonderful!!!

The return journey takes a little longer as it is much more difficult to descend through the knee-deep snow and try to hit the same footprints as on the way up.

My husband claims to feel great again, so we return to the panoramic terrace and enjoy the tranquility (we are completely alone) and the sunset with a beer and a Prosecco! Did I mention how wonderful it is up here???

Dinner is quite Spartan. Although there is a menu to choose from, the salad bar consists mainly of lettuce, corn, and beans, plus some bread. Unfortunately, there is no vegetarian main course, and the kitchen's creativity is also lacking. However, I'm satisfied with a spoonful of 'mashed potatoes,' which is presented to me as a vegetarian main course replacement. They will surely do better tomorrow when I request a vegetarian alternative for breakfast...right!? But the chocolate dessert is delicious!

We treat ourselves to a bottle of rosé wine for the week and only have one glass each for tonight (we already had beer and Prosecco on the terrace).

After dinner, we play dice and card games with the kids, and we've "smuggled" some snacks and a bottle of vodka and coffee liqueur. Another small "Black Russian" (our summer cocktail in the Maldives) won't hurt.... 🤔😜🙈

At 10 o'clock, we're totally exhausted and go to bed. However, it's almost impossible to sleep because now the altitude sickness kicks in….😱😱😱