Cochamo Valley and Puerto Montt

6.1. The hike into the valley is quite long, but the scenery is very beautiful. Since the trail is also used by horses carrying the luggage of lazy tourists, it is in a really miserable condition. In addition to all the mud that we have to navigate around on other paths every minute, there are footprints that have been trampled up to head height in the terrain!

So we end up walking for three hours, half an hour of which is definitely due to the condition of the trail. To reach the campsite, we have to cross a river on a small transport sled. Using manpower, we pull people across the river, which is about 30 meters wide. It's fun! The campsite is simple but beautifully located, and we feel comfortable. For the afternoon, we plan to visit the Amfiteatro, the shortest of the 4 hikes in the valley. It also takes a leisurely 3.5 hours and is extremely steep and challenging in some sections. The view of the granite walls is impressive, and you can understand why the Chileans compare it to Yosemite National Park in California. Unfortunately, Amelia's hip gives out after two-thirds of the distance, and she has to endure the rest of the way there plus the entire 2.5-hour descent in great pain. Respect!

7.1. Since Amelia can't go hiking today, I decide to climb Arco Iris after a late breakfast. It is said to be the most difficult but most beautiful hike in the valley. And that's exactly how it is. Along the way, you have to climb up roots, pull yourself up wet granite slabs using fixed ropes, and continuously gain at least 30 cm of elevation difference per step.

Below the first peak, I have to pause repeatedly, as walking slowly doesn't really help. I decide to only visit the sub-peak and skip the remaining 400 meters in elevation. But after a half-hour break and watching the other groups climbing in the rocks, I can't resist and try to stretch well and set off again. Faster than expected, I reach the summit and I am deeply impressed! The panorama from up here is amazing! I descend in record time and have to pass many people. The Chileans don't seem to know the principle of making way for a faster hiker, and it always takes ages until people finally decide to make space. After 6 hours, I'm back at the campsite and listen to Amelia's adventure of slipping on a log and then searching for her phone. After half an hour, she finds it in the water, but Apple makes good products, the phone still works perfectly! For dinner, we buy freshly baked bread from the wood oven of the host family and spread it with homemade bean/tuna spread. Yum!

8.1. We have to wait for our belongings to dry in order to pack them. That's why we don't start the return journey through the valley until 11:00. Before that, there would have been a huge traffic jam at the river sled. It's Saturday and many people are coming towards us who want to spend the weekend in the valley. We make good progress until we reach the suspension bridge where each person must cross individually. The line consists of 25 people waiting to cross the river. Luckily, we can chat with a cool family from Santiago who are spending their three-week hiking vacation in the south with their two sons. After that, it takes another 50 minutes to get to the parking lot, where we rearrange our things and then drive to the coastal village to treat ourselves to a plate of salmon and a reward beer. Without internet, it's difficult to find accommodations, so we decide to drive to Puerto Varas. Unfortunately, all the budget hostels are fully booked on the weekend, so we have to drive to Puerto Montt to spend a night in a room with wifi that is affordable. Amelia has a sibling chat tomorrow, and a good connection is important. The city is in a miserable state, but we find a really good restaurant that serves decent (vegetable) side dishes.