Von Tsumago nach Kiso - auf Umwegen

Today it will turn out that we have enjoyed the perfectly oiled wheels of the tourism industry for too long: we have only minimally prepared for the hike from Tsumago to Nojiri - why should we, everything always works out wonderfully.

We start the day with a delicious breakfast. Although Stef is less enthusiastic about traditional Japanese breakfast dishes, personally I find everything an improvement after a night on the futon (how the Japanese can sleep on these 10cm mattresses remains a mystery to me). We are kindly assured by Fujioto that it will be cold and cloudy today, but no rain is expected.

Well then, we venture out (our luggage is sent from the accommodation to the next Ryokan - so we only have a backpack for 1.5 days). The first few raindrops cannot harm us; but the few drops turn into a rain shower and they come and go all morning and noon. Nevertheless, we enjoy the wonderful path from Tsumago to Nagiso. When we look for the signpost to Nojiri there, we see that the path is much longer than expected. How can this be? The mistake quickly becomes clear: there is a path to Nojiri via the Nakasendo, which is about 17km long. But we entered the path via Google Maps and only came up with 13km - this is a different path, which is more direct and not on the Nakasendo. Actually not a problem, BUT we have to catch the train from Nojiri to Kiso-Fukushima at 2:50 p.m., where we have booked accommodation. Since it's Golden Week and pretty much everything is fully booked, we can't change our overnight plans at short notice. In addition, the train from Nojiri to Kiso-Fukushima only runs once every few hours. The next one would not be until shortly before 6 p.m. - but then we would be too late for dinner in our accommodation (the Japanese are very inflexible about this: we have seen several times that dinner is served exactly at 6 p.m., even if the guests have not checked in yet...).

What now? We have to replan at short notice and decide on the shorter, if perhaps less beautiful, path to Nojiri. However, we have to realize that it is closed for some reason. We don't feel like turning back and that means we have to walk along the road.

Although we sometimes get wonderful insights into village life and can even enjoy beautiful views, we are annoyed by this misplanning (or lack of planning). Maybe it's also the rain... Anyway, this hike could have been better.

We even have to take the train in a village before Nojiri to make sure we catch it. There we meet a Nakasendo hiker in the waiting room who has set himself the goal of walking the entire way. That means from Kyoto to Tokyo. He divides it into three sections so that he can fit it into his vacation. We are impressed by this plan and even more ashamed of our poor planning and low number of kilometers.

But well: we finally arrive in Kiso-Fukushima. For inexplicable reasons, there is a freezing cold wind blowing and we go shivering into the tourist office. There we FINALLY find a good map of the entire Nakasendo. It is inexplicable why there was none in Magome or Tsumago, which are the most popular cities for the hike! In addition, we receive a map of Kiso-Fukushima, which is larger than the previous towns. However, hardly anything remains of the old, traditional Edo-style architecture. Because the weather is very uncomfortable, despite the finally emerged sun, we immediately walk towards our accommodation. We pass a foot onsen: hot springs where you can warm up your feet for relaxation. Perfect! Exactly what we needed. Afterwards, the world looks completely different again.

Our accommodation is run by probably the most lovable couple in Japan (the woman always called her husband "tô-san," "father") - we feel a bit at home and prepare for a cozy evening. However, we have to have dinner in a very traditional Japanese sitting position on tatami mats: it's impossible to find a comfortable sitting position. And the futon is even thinner here than anywhere else, so I'm already looking forward to the next day and less to the night.