10.07.2024 - Paamiut - or "Lost at Sea, Chapter One

Shortly before eight: we wake up and look out of the window: there are occasionally smaller icebergs passing by. First thought: Oh no, hurry up and get dressed to go out and admire the promised/suspected "Armada of Icebergs". We arrive on deck and realize that there is nothing more to see and on the other hand, we do not see a harbor. Shortly after, around ten past eight, the captain announces that we will not be anchoring in Paamiut. The reason given is that the ice formation was so strong that the harbor had been closed.

So according to the sea map, which was constantly available on the monitors on the decks and on our TV, we sail away from Paamiut back out to sea. We are very disappointed that we don't get to see anything at first: neither the icebergs nor the sperm whales and sea eagles, which are said to be present in larger populations here near Paamiut.

Later, through conversations with other fellow travelers or from conversations at the neighboring table, we learn that we or the ship had sailed through icebergs on the way to Paamiut in the morning. Several questions arise: Why is it only during the approach to Paarmiut that it is known that the drifting icebergs there have increased so much that the harbor cannot be approached? Why do we have experienced Arctic pilots on board since Iceland, who could not predict this despite satellite support? Especially since we were told three days ago that Paamiut is a consistently ice-free harbor? We are sure that a large part of the passengers would have willingly endured an early wake-up, especially since the sun hardly sets here and it never really gets dark, just to see a few icebergs...

But no, the poor communication of the ship's management continues. What is supposed to happen after it became known that we will not arrive in Paamiut today. Allegedly, we will dock there the next day. But why one day later? Why not today? What is really going on and what is the captain planning? Allegedly, shortly after the announcement in the morning, we should find further information in the cabin. But we do not receive any further information throughout the day. The only source of information for us is initially the sea map, which shows us that we are sailing quite a distance westward through the Labrador Sea... but we were also informed by the captain that despite this, we would sail as close as possible to the Greenlandic coast to not deprive us of the beautiful landscape... very funny: we are about 150 km parallel to the coast and see nothing but sea. Not even a whale shows itself to us during the seemingly aimless journey across the sea.

In the evening, we see on the sea map that we are no longer heading west, but have taken the southern route. We suspect that not only has Paamiut been completely canceled from the plan, but also the passage through the Prins Christian Sund, which was initially advertised as navigable from the western side at the beginning of the journey... At the same time, we receive the confirming message that - due to the "loss" of Paamiut - we will receive an additional credit of 100 euros on the onboard card.

In the evening, we finally receive the devastating news that we will leave the area around Greenland without another port. And even in Iceland (next scheduled stop in 5 days), an additional port will not be steered to or an additional day spent in Reykjavik, which might have pacified some passengers... No: it is announced that we will "drift" to Reykjavik in the coming days without another port...

As a result, we decide to lighten our onboard card a bit and enjoy an Aperol Spritz and a Hugo.