Slowakia

26th June 2023 Stage 1: Hattingen-Görlitz 650 km. Start at 9:15 a.m. in Hattingen with the caddy already packed yesterday. Stop at the lake near Leipzig. Originally, I wanted to stay overnight at the Berzdorfer See campsite, but since thunderstorms are predicted, we book a night at the Pension Piccobello on the Neisse in Görlitz. This way, we can comfortably explore the old town and eat pierogies in the evening.

27th June 2023 From Görlitz to Slovakia to Lake Liptovska Mare, 580km.

28th June 2023 Bike tour 50km to the Lucky waterfall and back to the Havranok open-air museum via Besenova.

29th June 2023 Bike ride to the Drachenschlucht. The Freedom Cave is closed. Take the cable car to Chopok and walk to Dumbier 2034m. Since the last cable car goes downhill at 15:30, we walk back. At 17:30, the ranger takes us the last 3km in his 4x4. We stop at the rural cycle path at Koliba Bystrina. In the cozy center of L-Mikulas, we have an ice cream. After arriving at the campsite, we go directly into the lake for the triathlon.

30th June 2023 Bike ride over the hills 23km to Ziarska Chata. From there, we start our hike to Smutne sedlo. Along the way, we can hear the gurgling streams and there is a small snowfield for sliding. I actually wanted to go back to the hut via the Banikov, but the trail still has a 2:15 hour estimated time. So, I go over the Placlive 2125m. From here, I have a view of the mountains of the High Tatras, as long as they are not covered in clouds. At least I can recognize Krivan. Back at the hut, I have a beer on the terrace and quickly change the rear brake pads before the long descent. In the valley, there is a nice cycle path along the Vah river to Lipt. Mikulas. We are lucky, the old synagogue is currently open. A huge hall in the neoclassical style. You can still see the remains of the once magnificent paintings. We refresh ourselves at the Chinese restaurant and do some shopping at Lidl (almost like at home ;) ) and then go back to the lake at the campsite.

1st July 2023 We change our location from the lake to Tatranska Strba, from the tent to the Pension Chata Tatra. In the morning, I go swimming twice, before breakfast and after packing. We drive a stretch of the highway and briefly consider whether we want to visit the open-air museum in Pribylina, but then continue and take a look at the starting point for the hike to Krivan. At the pension, we are greeted with live music: Western/Country with banjo and guitar. We make ourselves a coffee and in the afternoon we cycle up to Pleso and encounter many tourists. The path around the lake is still beautiful, even if it rains from time to time. It's interesting to see what has been built here.

2nd July. With the bikes to Skrbske Pleso and with the chairlift to 1820m (young woman 17€, old man 14€; I count as a senior here). We enjoy the tranquil ride. At the first meters, I slip and fall on my elbow and phone. The elbow bleeds and heals on its own, unfortunately, the phone doesn't. The screen is shattered, the phone plays "message in the bottle" and can no longer be operated. Until Nize Wahlenbergovo Pleso, it is idyllic and there are only a few people. Then it gets busier and many people come towards us. Some say it's a one-way street, but our nice landlady denies that. Before the pass, there is a traffic jam and we have to squeeze through. We can still observe the rescue of an injured person from the air. The helicopter cannot land, and everything is done by winch. There is still a lot of snow up here, unfortunately, it is very cloudy, but it remains dry. There are steps and a large waterfall between the individual lakes. It gets warmer and during the break, we can watch two chamois. The last section to the lower station of the chairlift goes through the forest and feels long. Tired and satisfied, we rush down with the bikes to Tatranska Skrba at 960m.

3rd July 2023. Climbing Krivan 2334m. We drive to the parking lot below Krivan at 7:30 a.m. I have taken my bike just in case Ulla doesn't know if she wants to do the whole tour. Together we climb up to the tree line. After the break at 10 a.m., Ulla decides to turn back because she feels sick. I don't want to climb up there alone, there are probably 200 people on the mountain. After reaching the ridge, I can look northeast to the High Tatras. For the last 200 meters of altitude, climbing is required. I am just below the clouds at the top, and the view is mostly clear, but unfortunately hazy. At 12 p.m., I can take a photo at the summit cross. I spend an hour enjoying the view in all directions. The first section of descent is the same path, then I walk east along the ridge to Jamske Pleso. After a short break, we hike for another hour along the slope through the forest back to the parking lot. Now another 15km with the bike to the accommodation. But with the e-bike, that's no problem. Ulla quickly goes shopping, and we eat on the terrace.

4th July 2023. Popradske Pleso and Velke Hincovo Pleso.
We cycle the already well-known 6 km road up to Strbske Pleso. But at the junction, we continue straight ahead and after 1.2 km to the stop Popradske Pleso. The whole road serves as a parking lot here. Behind the level crossing, the road is blocked by a barrier, and many people walk the steep 5.5 km to the lake. Surprisingly, there are many young families with children, some on balance bikes. We leave the bikes at the hotel and start the ascent after a short look around. The first 2 km to the crossing of the creek are gentle through the forest. We take a break at the creek. Then it gets steeper and several times we think we are almost there, but it goes even higher. At the lake, we settle down in the wind and sun. Both are not constant today. We enjoy the view. Unfortunately, despite binoculars, we cannot find the marmots that we hear. We walk down without a break. But there is still a beer before we get on the bikes.

5th July 2023. Sucha Bela

6th July 2023 Mobile phones, monastery

7th July 2023 Zipser Castle and rocks and church and Kosice

8th July 2023 Kosice. We have breakfast at the small round table on the balcony. At 9 a.m., Lubos arrives and brings us the inflatable boat. We still don't know what we want to do on the way to Latorica today. We drive to Gysir Herlany, which is supposed to be active every 34 hours today between 3-5 p.m. We briefly consider whether we can swim in the pond in front of it, but since the water is not inviting, we park directly at the geyser. On the map, we choose a bike route. It goes uphill on the newly paved road to Herlianske Sedlo. Unfortunately, there is no view here. Then on a paved forest road at the same level to the west. We stop along the way and listen to the birds in the forest and enjoy the few views. At the group house at the end of the road, a busload of young people has just arrived. We roll down the hill to the tank. Then we go through the villages. There is a festival in Nizna Kamenica. A Hubertus Mass is celebrated. The hunters present the decorated prey in front of the altar. After tree cake and beer, we continue. Whenever garbage appears on the roadside, there is also a poor settlement of Roma nearby. Laundry hangs on the fence, and many young people are on the street. At the geyser, the park slowly fills up. We have to wait until 4:11 p.m., but then it erupts. Suddenly, there is a fountain about 10m high, which is blown a bit by the wind. The children scream with joy. Next to it, a wedding is taking place. After 20 minutes, the jet has dropped to 2.50m, and we drive to Vinicky. The Pension Zlata Putna is located on the vineyard, but unfortunately, also on the noisy road. The simple room is downstairs and dark. We prefer to sit on the old river arm 600m away. It is a peaceful place for anglers. We enjoy it. In the pension, we only have a soup: fish or mushrooms. I ride to the spot behind the church where we want to end the canoe tour.

9th July 2023 Viniky, Pension Zlata Putna. We drive to our southeastern location in Slovakia: the bridge of the 555 from Kralovsky Chlmec over the Latorica, a gentle river. Under the bridge, we park and inflate the boat. Another 2-person boat is also in front of us, and some stand-up paddlers paddle upstream. We start at 9:30 a.m. In 2 days, we want to paddle about 31 km down to Viniky. The river has little current, and after an hour, we have covered 4km. Until 11 a.m., it is very quiet, and we don't meet anyone. We see a kingfisher twice. Since the bank is very muddy, we dock next to a small boat for a break. I go swimming. The water is somewhat cloudy but not cold. Just before the mouth of the Laborec, fallen trees block the river. We have to carry the boat about 150m, and when getting in and out, we sink into the mud. And the mosquitoes are dancing with joy over our visit. We imagined it differently. We have our lunch break after 12km at an angler shelter, and despite the muddy shore, I go swimming once more. Shortly after, we meet the only other boat, an angler. Until the confluence with the Bodrog, the Latorica is straightened again. The Bodrog brings murky water with it. At Zemplin, there is a pontoon landing stage, which unfortunately is not in the water but is 50cm away from the muddy shore. The space above it is good for camping. While I am cooking, Ulla goes to the first houses to replenish our water supplies. After the millet and vegetable dish, we go to the church hill. The sun is just setting. We look for and find a tap where we can refresh ourselves a bit. On the way back, the mosquitoes attack us again, so quickly into the tent and read something.

10th July 2023. Zdiar on the bike route to Poland. This could also be Friday the 13th, as a heavy thunderstorm descends upon us at sunrise at 4:30 a.m., and the water collects in a depression under Ulla's mattress. Unfortunately, the ground is not waterproof. Ulla flees to the car with her luggage. By 6 a.m., the storm is over, and we can have breakfast in the sun and everything is dry. Since it is supposed to rain a lot today, we had already decided yesterday to go to the Pension Perla Aqua in Zdiar. The Belianska Jaskyna cave is on the way in Kotlina. At the parking lot (€5), it says that the next guided tour takes place at 10 a.m., so there is still 15 minutes for the 900m and the steep ascent. At 9:55 a.m., I overtake 20 people and stand as 23rd at the end of a queue. It looks like it won't work anymore, especially since nothing is happening. Ultimately, a tour takes place every 20 minutes, and the next tickets are only sold after the tour has started. We are allowed in at 10:30 a.m. The circular route leads over 1350m and 866 steps at 6°C. There are 5 beautiful domes with 3 small greenish lakes and, of course, many stalactites, stalagmites, and a few columns. Unfortunately, the explanations are only in Slovak, but we can orient ourselves to the German text. When we come out again, it's raining, and the queue has grown to over 100 people. People are still coming from below, and we already feel sorry for them in their transparent and colorful plastic ponchos. We can already go to our room now and have a longer lunch break with a nap while it continues to rain. When it stops at 4 p.m., we start the tour first through the street village and then up the side valley of the Biela again. The colorful houses are nice to look at. But since the path is too long for dinner, I bring the bikes and we ride the loop. A short stop at Hotel Magura from the '70s. Then a bridge, and we cross the creek at the ford. So, take off your shoes and go through! In the restaurant at the museum, we sit outside on sheepskins and enjoy the delicious regional food.

11th July 2023. Zdiar and Kezmarok

12th July 2023. Stara Lesna, Camping Rijo. After a very restless night, I'm glad to be able to get up, but I'm very weak. Nevertheless, I want to go to the mountains. We ride 6 km with the bikes to the first middle station, the starting point of the cable cars below the Lomnicky Stit at 1150m. We walk on a path with little incline through partly very sick fir forests to the second middle station Skalnate Pleso at 1750m. The thunderstorm announced for 1 p.m. comes a bit earlier, and we take refuge in the house. There is nothing going on in the Enzian gallery, and there is a sofa. I sit down on it for a while. The thunderstorm has passed after an hour, but the clouds are still hanging on the peak, and the airy cable car disappears in them. There are better days for the ride to Lomnicky Stit at 2634m. We take a quick look at the lake and then hike along the ski slope back to the bikes. In Tatranska Lomnicka, there is also a small grocery store among the sometimes upscale hotels. Today we have sweet potatoes with creamy cottage cheese, mixed salad, and a draft beer, 0.5l for €1.80, at the restaurant of the campsite. We actually get to play badminton today as well.

Thursday, 13th July 2023. Camp Rijo. It could also be Friday the 13th because a strong thunderstorm descends on us with sunrise at 4:30 a.m., and the water collects in a depression under Ulla's mattress. Unfortunately, the ground is not waterproof. Ulla escapes to the car with her luggage. At 6 a.m., the storm is over, and we can have breakfast in the sun and everything is dry. Since it is supposed to rain a lot today, we had already decided yesterday to go to Zdiar to the Pension Perla Aqua. On the way there is the Belianska Jaskyna cave in Kotlina. At the parking lot (€5), it says that the next guided tour takes place at 10 a.m., so there is still 15 minutes for the 900m and the steep ascent. At 9:55 a.m., I overtake 20 people and stand as 23rd at the end of a queue. It looks like it won't work anymore, especially since nothing is happening. Ultimately, a tour takes place every 20 minutes, and the next tickets are only sold after the tour has started. We are allowed in at 10:30 a.m. The circular route leads over 1350m and 866 steps at 6°C. There are 5 beautiful domes with 3 small greenish lakes and, of course, many stalactites, stalagmites, and a few columns. Unfortunately, the explanations are only in Slovak, but we can orient ourselves to the German text. When we come out again, it's raining, and the queue has grown to over 100 people. People are still coming from below, and we already feel sorry for them in their transparent and colorful plastic ponchos. We can already go to our room now and have a longer lunch break with a nap while it continues to rain. When it stops at 4 p.m., we start the tour first through the street village and then up the side valley of the Biela again. The colorful houses are nice to look at. But since the path is too long for dinner, I bring the bikes and we ride the loop. A short stop at Hotel Magura from the '70s. Then a bridge, and we cross the creek at the ford. So, take off your shoes and go through! In the restaurant at the museum, we sit outside on sheepskins and enjoy the delicious regional food.

14th July 2023. Zdiar. Last day together in Slovakia. We drive to the pension near the Red Monastery to visit it first with our bikes. When we finish the visit, there are already more people, and the courtyard is full of people with bikes. We follow the rafters downstream on the newly renovated bike path and have to be extremely careful because there are a lot of people here. We climb down to the shore at a break for a while and observe the rafters. They have to steer very precisely at the rapids. At the Polish border, the Slovaks dock, while the Poles continue a little further to the next village. In Szczawnica, we have a coffee on the promenade, which is so busy that we quickly look for nature again. Behind Lesnica, the bike route leads us so steeply into the mountains that we have to push in parts. But here we are alone again and can enjoy the view down into the valley. When we arrive at the pension in Lechnica, there is still no one on site. In a phone call, we find out that we have to pick up the key in the valley. So, we also visit the super cheap Omka restaurant right there and treat ourselves to fries and schnitzel with delicious beer. We spend the late afternoon chilling on the bed or in the garden. Also nice for a change.

15th July 2023. Lechnica, Pension Anna. From here, we now leave Slovakia after breakfast. We drive about 80 km on country roads to Poland. There is no control at the border, so we can drive through. Until we reach the highway, the oncoming traffic is heavy, and sometimes the roundabouts are blocked, causing traffic jams in all directions. I have the impression that all of Poland wants to vacation in the mountains at the moment because it is so hot in the plains. On the highway, it is calm and fast. We pause again at the bathing area at the Zbiornic, but here too it is now much busier than on the way there. Our accommodation in Wroclaw is 5 km southeast of the city center. The area around it seems to be in transition. After a short break, we ride the bikes from the old to the new Oder and explore the banks around the zoo. The beach bars are too loud for us. So, slightly off the beaten path, we find a pizzeria and later return to the riverbank for the sunset. We enjoy the last rays of sun sitting on a pier. Thus, our last evening together comes to an end.

16th July 2023. Wroclaw. After breakfast, Ulla heads home, and I spend the day in Wroclaw and on the Oder to start a new adventure tomorrow, which will be told in a new blog.

End