Once again Morocco

8.4.22 Wedding of Linda and Nils Klockmann. Make PCR test.

9.4.22 Drive Ulla to Dusseldorf Airport. Clean up and pack. For Ryanair, the hand luggage must be only 40x30x20cm, otherwise it will be expensive! So I put the two Ortlieb bags inside each other and only take as much as it fits within the dimensions.

10.4. Here we go. The alarm clock rings at 3:35 a.m. Uwe and Tim are at the door at 4:00 a.m. Weeze Airport at 5:40 a.m. All controls passed without any problems at 6:30 a.m. It seems that no other tourists wanted to travel with us, but apparently all emigrants from Morocco, mainly women with children. Good flight with a view of the snow-covered Pyrenees. Rachid from Altenessen sits next to us, he takes us by car to Nador and arranges the contact to the accommodation. That was a great help. The apartment is simple but spacious, has everything we need and is centrally located.

What we did not consider, it is Ramadan: Everything is closed until sunset and eating in public is not allowed!

Now we need to get bicycles. Stroll through the city center, oranges are easy to get. We eat them secretly at the new fishing port. The fishermen mend their nets in the sometimes passing sun. We roll up our trousers. Even on the way back through the train station, we don't find any bicycles. At the taxi rank, we ask in sign language and broken English and Spanish for buying opportunities. For 10 MAD = 1€ we go to the washing machine dealer. He has 2 bikes, too expensive and with a broken luggage rack. On the way back on foot, we pass a souk. We are approached in German and offered help. We agree to it: After 3 unsuccessful attempts on foot, we take a taxi to Souk Jjoutya. Quickly we are in front of a bike that I buy for 70€, only the luggage rack is missing. But it is right next door. With happy 50 Dirhams we dismiss the guide who has become tedious. A new luggage rack is quickly installed, but then it gets weird. The eager mechanic insists on adjusting the gears and almost breaks the bike. After an hour, we can free ourselves after paying 100 D.

Uwe goes back by taxi, I go back by bike. But we lose each other and Uwe gets off at the wrong corner. I have no credit on my mobile phone and recharging is not quick. I use the WLAN in the apartment and we agree to meet at the corner where Uwe got off. We only find each other again on the second attempt. Now the city is packed. Everyone is preparing for the meal after sunset. Unfortunately, the recommended restaurants are closed, so we only get a döner bag. Also delicious. At 9:30 p.m. our eyes close and I go to bed. But due to the 2-hour time difference, the day was over 20 hours long.

11.4. Nador. I wake up at 5:30 a.m. due to the time difference. So I can set up the blog in peace. And look for accommodation towards the east. We have breakfast in the apartment because all cafes are closed due to Ramadan. We want to get a bike for Uwe today, but the shops don't open until the afternoon, so we walk east along the coast. The beach is being redesigned everywhere. We are still alone with the cleaners. They even remove the seaweed from the cracks in the waterfront promenade. But above all, they have to pick up trash. We linger here and there, looking at the city and the sea. Around noon, we walk through different busy streets to the bike rental shop from yesterday. But the boss is not there and the Gazelle (heavy as an elephant) is supposed to cost 240€. We decide to come back later. Until then, we walk up narrow streets to the trashy viewpoint. Here are some remnants of a beautiful park with a great view over Nador. If no one is watching, we sneak a taste of the sweet pastries we bought. From here, you can also walk 2km to yesterday's souk. Maybe we can find a bike for Uwe there. We pass through new neighborhoods with small simple houses and past an old cemetery. The places from yesterday are empty. Today the market is in a different neighborhood. We ask at the café if there are any bikes, but they don't understand us. We are sent around the corner to the tire workshop. Someone who speaks English is being sought here, he calls Rachid because he speaks German. And so we have found our guide for today. Someone is sent off on a moped to get a bike, but it's no good. We start walking. Rachid shows us his house and invites us to dinner. There should be a place to buy bikes 5 minutes away. It turns into 5 km, 6 stations, and 2 hours. Phew! In the end, we meet a neighbor of Rachid on a bike and he is willing to lend us the bike for 2 weeks! What an odyssey! Uwe goes with Rachid and Mohamed, and I want to get my bike and catch up. The meal is delicious. The woman has prepared a lot. The whole table is full of small dishes. The meal starts on a cheerful note as soon as the muezzin calls for it. Afterwards, the bike is actually brought. We make the following deal: Uwe pays 1000 Dirhams and gets 500 back after returning the bike. We have one more cup of tea together and then we roll back to the apartment through the night.

12.4.22 Nador. It's raining. We take it easy. Since my bike doesn't have mudguards, I have to wait until the road is somewhat dry. From the balcony, I can watch the fish seller. The first thing we need is a 4 or 5mm Allen key to adjust Uwe's saddle. Then we ride west on the new coastal road. Here we are often overtaken by blue city buses that go all the way to the gates of the Spanish enclave of Melilla. Many Moroccans have worked there, but at the moment the border is closed due to political disputes over Western Sahara. In Beni Ensar we buy our lunch, baguette and oranges, which we eat semi-hidden behind the industrial plants on the beach. This is where the lagoon beach ends in front of Nador. The beach is littered with shells and there are people in certain spots. That interests me. I ride my bike there. A small fishing boat has landed and the catch is unloaded from the net into portions in the trailer. An old Daimler then drives the trailer 1km further along the beach to the next fishing boat. The seagulls watch for anything that falls, and the men standing around also collect fish from the beach or pick them out of the net and put them in plastic bags. I collect a few shells because they are so beautiful. Shortly before 3 o'clock, we start the journey back. We still pass the sealed off port. There are men standing in small groups in front of it. Are they waiting for work? A large ferry is also visible in the harbor, but the traffic is currently suspended. We turn onto the new four-lane bypass road of Nador. It takes about 30 minutes to reach a high point and we feel warm. Large trucks overtake us and honk in greeting. Sometimes men have attached themselves to the back. It looks very adventurous. Do the drivers tolerate this? We conquer the altitude ourselves and enjoy the view of Nador. After the descent, we buy breakfast and toilet paper and a bicycle lock. Short break at home and then back to Rachid and his family for dinner. We are running late. The muezzin is already calling. After dinner, I play a lot with the little girls. Safae even does her homework in between. She practices the letter U. She can also write Uwe at the same time. 😀 After tea, we say thank you and goodbye. Let's see where we will end up tomorrow.

13.4. From Nador to Ras al Ma, 72km. The rain has stopped. After breakfast, we start along the promenade. The wind is fresh and strong, it immediately blows my cap off and pushes us forward. The first shortcut on the side road ends almost in the mud. After freeing the mudguard, we prefer to stay on the main road, especially since there is less and less traffic. In Kariat, we take the first longer break at the deserted sandy beach. The water is tempting, but it is already cold on my feet. It's amazing how much trash is everywhere! Now the road goes up to 170m with many uphill sections. The total elevation gain at the end of the day is 750hm. The inclines are easy to ride with the wind, and we have nice views of our cape and the island of Cerro Nido. Once arrived in Ras al Ma, we ask for accommodation at the shop and are offered an apartment just around the corner. We drop off our luggage and ride to the lighthouse on the cliffs and the harbor because of the beautiful sun. Now let's take a rest, because I also want to see the sunset on the cliffs. The break is interrupted by room service. Here the people seem to be liberal and nice, because we are served tea and pancakes with honey before sunset: mhm, delicious. Now quickly back to the lighthouse, the sun will set in 15 minutes. It was worth it! To end the day, we sit in the noisy café. We can use the internet while drinking tea.

14.4. Thursday. From Ras Al Ma to Berkane. In times of Ramadan, when all cafes are closed, it is good to have an apartment with a stove. So we can make our own coffee. Dense clouds hang in the sky. When we buy water for the ride and unsuccessfully search the market with yesterday's helper for a small pump - the first pump has mysteriously disappeared - it starts pouring down. Since our helper is the locksmith in town, and we are standing in front of his workshop anyway, we use the flex to modify the bike so that I can finally tighten the seat post. The rain stops, but we have to take shelter again soon. We ride up a small hill and along a river. There are fields or fruit trees here and there. The road goes downhill to the bridge and on the other side, we have to climb again. Unfortunately, the light is missing today. The last 10 km, the road goes straight through orchards without any inclines. Once arrived in Berkane, we ask at a shop with bicycle tires for a pump, and he gets it for us directly from the store next door. Now we are prepared for breakdowns again, which hopefully won't happen. Today we go to the hotel in the first place: Rosalin. The disadvantage is that we only have one room and cannot make coffee. I am undecided about how to spend the rest of the day. I would like to go to the Camel Cave. But it's a 2-hour uphill climb and the clouds are still hanging around. Then there is the question of how we will travel to Oujdia and whether we want to go there at all? We decide to bike to the cave tomorrow and take a bus from here to Al Hoceima. So we explore the city by bike, find a stork's nest in the park next to the main road, and buy a bus ticket at the bus station. At 6:30 p.m., we sit in the restaurant and all guests are served their food one after the other. But eating is only allowed after the muezzin calls for it at 6:48 p.m. At least the soup is still warm and the fish is delicious.

15.4. Friday. From Berkane to the Camel Cave and by bus to Al Hoceïma. I slept so badly. I'm plagued by diarrhea and restlessness. The sky is still gray, but it will be nice later in the day. After the frugal breakfast with cold coffee, bread, and cheese, we set off without luggage, which stays at the reception, out of the city, always along the river to an altitude of 440m. There is hardly any traffic in the valley, and the inclines are easy to ride. But the cave is closed! I still want to hike in the valley or try to bypass the fence. For that, we have to cross a stream. Uwe lets me go alone and I actually find a footpath on the other side of the stream to the cave. Two young men are already there, walking out towards the fence. I quickly call Uwe and the people show him the way in. A lot of water is coming out of the mountain and you could swim here. I can also peek into the cave through the bars.

16.4. Saturday. Al Hoceïma bike tour to the remote beach

17.4. Easter Sunday. From Al Hoceïma to Tazaghine. We ride to Place Mohammed Vl. It is located above a bay with a large hotel. The view of the empty beach and the blue sea is inviting, so we decide to ride down and go swimming. We could have saved ourselves some effort yesterday. Since I was already in the water yesterday, it doesn't feel as cold anymore. Most visitors have a white chest, bill, and can fly. Unfortunately, we have to ride up to the city again. From the market next to the mosque, we take a last look back at the bay, which seems to be more interested in trash than the residents. Too bad. The first 6km today are the challenging ones because they are steep and hot. Suddenly it's so warm! When we finally go down to the sea and I look forward to 10km without any inclines, I am almost hit by a taxi starting off. I will need another guardian angel today in a similar situation. Phew! Lucky us! The beach we reach for our lunch break is unfortunately uninviting and littered again. Is it in front of a military post? But there is an unused kiosk that provides shade. I take a nap after bread and apple. The road slightly ascends and moves away from the coast, which is formed by lava rock. We see many fishermen and boys swimming. We could already end our stage here and wait for the sunset. We first ask a fish seller about accommodation. Via WhatsApp conversations with Hamm in Germany, a mini house is arranged for us, but it has no beds or bedding, and we haven't bought any groceries yet. So we thank them and continue talking. There are groceries a few kilometers further at Oulad Amghar, and the prospect of a hotel at 9 or 10km: red house with a large sign behind a roundabout. But after 9, 10, or 15km, there is still no sign. In the last evening light, we turn off to Tazaghine. Now everyone is having the evening meal, but a small shop is open. Here we get dinner and an emergency shelter with blankets in the storage room. There is also a toilet, hot water from the kettle, and even WiFi. We gratefully accept it.