BLOG 15: Kintyre / East Coast - Saddell & Skipness

We drove the few miles from Campbeltown to Peninver on the east coast. The campsite is an ideal base for the following day - a short bike ride.

We start on the B 842. Most of the time, the road is 1 ½ lanes wide. There aren't too many cars on the road, so it's quite leisurely - thanks to the e-bikes, we can easily climb the inclines of up to 12% towards Saddell. This small village of just a few houses has two main attractions - one is Saddell Abbey, founded by Ragnall, Lord of Kintyre in the 12th century. But as early as the 15th century, the monastery was abandoned again during the upheavals under James IV of Scotland. So it's not surprising that there are only a few ruins to see, but the 15th century Saddell Stones, some of which are in fairly good condition, can still be visited - the stone carvings are still impressive today.

But the real highlight for us is Saddell Bay with Saddell Castle (which can be rented as a holiday home for up to 8 people). The origins of the castle date back to the 16th century and many stones from the abbey were used in its construction - recycling in the Middle Ages. In the centuries that followed, ownership passed from the Earl of Arran to the Clan MacDonald, and in the 17th century, it was given to Archibald Campbell, 7th Earl of Argyll by King James VI. It fell into disrepair from the late 18th century until it was bought and restored by the Landmark Trust in the 20th century.

The cast-iron sculpture "Grip" by Sir Antony Gormley (*1950) has stood in front of the castle since 2015. Sir Gormley is known for his installations in many countries around the world, not just Great Britain, but also Austria, Germany, Alaska, Mexico, Australia, etc... Actually, "Grip" was planned to be removed again in 2016, like four other similar sculptures in Scotland - Gormley took the other four back to use in new installations. However, Grip was purchased by an unknown patron for an undisclosed sum and Gormley was persuaded that Grip's home could only be here in Saddell Bay. He said: 'There is an excitement about making a sculpture that can live out here amongst the waves and the wind, the rain and snow, in night and day'.

Saddell Bay became world-famous in 1977 for the video clip for the song 'Mull of Kintyre' by Paul McCartney and the Wings and the Campbeltown Pipe & Drums Band. You can find it on YouTube: (36) Wings - Mull Of Kintyre - YouTube (hope the link works).

The cottage where the clip starts has changed a bit in almost 50 years but is probably maintained for the 'visitor freaks' - the bay has remained the same....

The next day, we continue north along the east coast of Kintyre in our motorhome - the B 842 remains manageably narrow and exciting to drive. Our destination now is Skipness Castle - almost a matter of honor for Scotland that it is a ruin nowadays....

The oldest structures of the castle complex date from the 13th century - the construction probably goes back to the clan lord MacSween or his son Dugald. Later, the castle was given by King Alexander III to Walter Balloch Stewart, 4th Earl of Menteith - Scottish history is also reflected in the stories of the buildings. Expansions followed in the 14th and 16th centuries, but by the 17th century, Skipness Castle was abandoned and deserted. But until today, a lady is said to haunt here....

After an extensive tour of the site, we were looking forward to a refreshment in the adjacent famous 'Skipness Seafood Cabin', but the predicted waiting time of at least one hour for a meal drove us away again.

Now we go back to Tarbert and then take the A 83, which we have already used on our way to Kintyre, to Loch Lomond, where we will spend our last night in Scotland.