Day 3 - El Acebo to Ponferrada

Since my feet were still a bit sore from the first few days, I had decided to take it easy today. The guidebook also promised a different but beautiful landscape, so I was looking forward to the breaks from the start. And I wouldn't be disappointed...

After a surprisingly good night's sleep with S. thanks to the food and red wine, I woke up around 6.45am from the rustling of my dorm mates. I took my time getting ready after most of them had already left and got my breakfast from the vending machine. Unfortunately, there was no cafe or restaurant affiliated with the hostel, so I had to settle for coffee and packaged cake from the vending machine. Knowing that I had already reserved a room and had no time pressure, I started walking. The first 7km were even worse and rockier than the day before. The path through the Valley of Nightingales was so bad that I was too focused on watching where I stepped that I completely forgot about the scenery around me. But I could smell the scent of roses and incense. In Molinaseca, at the end of the Roman bridge, I bought a coffee and sat in the late morning sun. Suddenly, B. and L. appeared from the neighboring hostel. I had briefly spoken to them at the hostel in Rabanal. They had treated themselves to a sleep-in and joined me for breakfast. L. is from Germany and comes from Düsseldorf, and B. is actually American (originally from Florida but now lives in Wyoming) and walks around in a kilt all day. The two of them had met in Leon and now want to walk to Santiago together. Just fifteen minutes later, my Canadian friend and the two Argentinians came walking down the bridge. It's amazing how everyone meets again at this bottleneck because everyone has to pass through here. L. and B. knew even more people passing by and left Molinaseca around noon because they were already running late and wanted to walk 27km today. I had time because I was only about 7km away from my (reserved) room in Ponferrada, so I sat down on the grass by the bridge in Molinaseca and read. Unfortunately, as described in the guidebook, you couldn't go swimming at this spot, but it was still pleasant in the shade of the trees. Since communication with the hostel owners in Pieros is difficult in English and almost impossible over the phone, I asked three local girls who had also spread out on the meadow to call the hostel in Pieros for me and reserve a room.

Relaxed and satisfied, I then made my way to Ponferrada for the final 7km. Now I understand why many people start hiking early in the morning: the midday heat here is brutal! It was only 7km, but I was soaked when I finally arrived at the hotel. I took a shower and took care of my equipment. It's starting to get on my nerves not being able to communicate properly, so I got a Spanish learning app and started studying the first lessons in the hotel. Afterwards, I went into town. L. had heard that Ponferrada isn't really worth seeing, but I was hungry. The Templar Castle was really the only thing worth seeing, so I waited until the tapas bar of my choice finally opened at 8pm. And I wasn't disappointed: as usual, I got a free small snack with every drink and ordered the entire menu (in my defense: there were only four types of tapas ;-)). Let me just say: fantastic! Satisfied and after 3-4 glasses of wine, I wanted to pay and was surprised when the waitress only asked for 12€! I checked the bill, but they hadn't forgotten anything! At this point: if you ever come to Ponferrada and feel like having tapas, I highly recommend El Bodegon! The Spaniards in Munich could definitely learn a thing or two from them! So, I made my way back to the hotel, full and content.

Today was a good day!