Day 17: Tonsai Beach

Yesterday around noon, I arrived in Tonsai Beach, a secluded beach next to the more famous Railay Beach near Krabi. The journey from Koh Lanta to Tonsai was fantastic and without any issues, unlike the previous trip. I traveled on an air-conditioned, comfortable ferry to Ao Nang, and from there, I took a small speedboat to Railay Beach, where I received a private tour in a longtail boat to Tonsai Beach.

As soon as I arrived at the beach, I felt the tranquility and balance of the village. I made my way to the hotel, and everyone was immediately friendly and helpful. The locals were lounging in hammocks or sleeping on benches in the shade. I also saw the cute monkeys with large white patches around their eyes for the first time, they were adorable. When I arrived at the hostel, the welcoming atmosphere continued as I was greeted warmly and then taken to my bungalow. Fortunately, no one else was there, so I had the little hut all to myself.

One characteristic of the place was that the electricity only worked in the evenings, there was only WiFi at the hostel reception, and the whole town consisted of bars, restaurants, and accommodations. In the evenings, the many climbers (Tonsai is known for its climbing) went to the pubs, exchanged climbing stories over a few beers, and enjoyed the slackline, party games, or the pool table. Alcohol, as well as other herbal substances, were generously offered, creating a relaxed atmosphere. I was quickly invited for a few drinks and had conversations with people from all over the world.

The restaurant "Mama Chicken" was recommended to me by several independent sources, and it turned out to be the best. We ate there every day, having cereal with fresh fruits in the morning and various variations from the diverse menu in the evening. From Pad Thai to burgers and curry, everything was available. At lunchtime, we enjoyed delicious banana bread at the cliff, of course made by Mama Chicken.

The place had captivated and trapped me. Many people didn't want to leave this place, and I could understand why. After two days of climbing and enjoying the beach, I could relate to that feeling. And so, the initially planned two days turned into 3.5.

Tonsai Beach had a completely different atmosphere than the tourist-filled Railay Beach. In Tonsai, the climbers were at home, already bustling at the cliffs in the early morning and dominating the entire beach. Everyone was chatting, exchanging beta, and there was a family-like atmosphere.

Tonsai Beach is simply magical, with its fire shows in the evening, cozy atmosphere, friendly people, surrounded by magnificent rock formations mixed with palm trees and blue water. For me, it is one of the best places I have ever been to. I will definitely come back, and not just because of the ongoing climbing projects! An article about climbing will follow, but for now, I'm heading further north to Koh Tao Island in the Gulf of Thailand.