Waterton Lakes NP

From Canmore to Waterton it is about 400 km. Surprisingly, the weather is dry. We take the old Highway 1A (like a cantonal road) in the hope of seeing more than on the Trans Canada Hwy (Hwy 1). At the second warning sign 'Rocky Mountains Sheep xing' we actually see a small herd on top of the hill.

From Cochrane we go via Alberta Highway 22 towards Lundbreck. Through a varied, colorful, hilly landscape dotted with farms. Cattle horses graze on the vast fields. Hay bales are still lying in the fields before they are harvested. Here and there the Rockies show up on our right side, the ride is really cozy.

'One of the most thrilling hikes of the world' according to National Geographic is the hike to Crypt Lake in Waterton Lakes Park, the smallest park in the Rocky Mountains, UNESCO World Heritage Site and Dark Sky Preserve. We really want to do that. At the park entrance, we learn that due to the Kenow Wildfire in September 2017, about 2/3 of the park is closed. The fire destroyed about 38,000 hectares of forest, including 20,329 hectares in Waterton Lakes NP. Many beautiful hikes along the Akamina and Red Rock Parkways are closed because the infrastructure has been destroyed. A somewhat sad sight, although such natural wildfires are important for the renewal of the flora. It will take many decades for the forests to regenerate. It is exciting to see how plants, but also animals, have already recovered shortly after the big fire. The reintroduced bison were taken to safety in Saskatchewan before the fire. An adult bison resisted relocating temporarily. Due to the extremely tight conditions, the bull was left in an area that could best ensure its survival. The bull sought shelter near a pond and managed to survive the fire. The bison from Saskatchewan will return to Waterton as soon as possible and contribute to the reintroduction of the bison in this region. This also shows that animals can cope with forest fires, even though some large and small animals did not survive the fire.

The campgrounds are also affected by the aftermath of the fire. Despite efforts to rebuild the destroyed infrastructure, only camping in the village is open. We book 2 nights, the campground is located on the shore of Upper Waterton Lake, 5 minutes' walk from the village, framed by impressive rock walls, the peaks of Vimy Peak, Mt Boswell, Mt Richards, Mt Alderson, Bears Hump and Mt Crandell, as well as the imposing Prince of Wales Hotel, which prominently perches on the hill vis-a-vis Waterton at the Bosporus (actually called that) between Upper and Middle Waterton Lake. The weather forecast for the next few days looks good. Waterton, at an elevation of 1,280 meters, has 105 inhabitants and actually offers everything you need. On the first evening, we treat ourselves to dinner at the Trattoria Red Rock, having pasta to be prepared for the hike. At 7:00 in the morning, the trailhead, which is reached by boat, is in a real washroom, dark clouds, rain showers, and certainly 5-6 Bft wind. At 9:30, it still looks exactly the same. Since the only boat to the trailhead leaves at 10:00, we decide not to go. An estimated 6 hours on a fully crowded boat are not ideal, considering the passages that justify the attribute 'most thrilling'. Besides, we find it a pity if the low-hanging clouds so strongly impair the view. 'Been there, done it, tick the box' is not what we want. The stubborn weather once again does not adhere to the forecasts. Admittedly, the microclimate in a small area surrounded by high mountains is very difficult to predict, we know that all too well. Calmly, we explore Waterton, get information at the Visitors Center, make initial inquiries at the post office for the return of unused materials to Switzerland, test the first cappuccinos (well, good enough), and extend our campground permit by 2 days. The next day, the 22nd of September, doesn't look any better, on the contrary, the rain showers are sometimes quite intense (like 'getting soaked to the underwear in 30 seconds' kind of intense). So we extend the permit for the campsite once again and set off for Bertha Lake in the rain showers. The trail was reopened a few days ago, the many burned trees are already oppressive. At this altitude, it also takes a very long time for the biomass to decompose.

On Sunday, the weather still hasn't changed. In a drier phase, we stroll up the hill to the Prince of Wales and enjoy the view over Upper Waterton Lake to Glacier Park in Montana (USA). The weather for Tuesday looks really good, so on Monday we take another walk towards Lonsome Lake. After the shower, we treat ourselves to a massage and dinner at the Lakeside Chophouse, we are ready.

On Tuesday morning, the 25th of September, the sky is actually blue, fresh snow lies on the surrounding mountains, it is windy and cold. Our stubbornness has paid off (yes, not only bison bulls can do that). We leave at 10:00 with the Miss Waterton to Crypt Landing. Steve amusingly prepares us for the hike. 'I am a bit jealous, it's going to be the perfect day after Smogust (Smoke and August) and lots of wind and rain in September. A grizzly sow with cubs has been seen on the lower switchbacks of the trail, several grizzly sightings on the upper ones'. You must all be experienced hikers, I didn't hear any dinner bells on your way in (shows a bunch of bear bells). You know, when my grandma occasionally visits me in Waterton, she doesn't want to get out of her car. She's convinced that bears are waiting behind every rock to kill her. Well, if I visit my grandma in town, I don't want to get out of the car because every day people get killed for no reason by other people'. With that, he starts tangent Nr. 293 on how to behave in bear country. 'Well, after the switchbacks, you are almost there. Almost, because you still have to get across the tricky parts of the hike. The steel ladder leading to the hourglass-shaped tunnel, a steep 13-story drop on the exit with a 2-inch-wide rocky trail to get to the lake. Okay, I just wanted to scare you, it's 2 feet wide with a cable, so if you are able to use a walkway without falling off, you should be able to get across that one. So the 15-minute ride is quickly over and we set off for Crypt Lake. A very beautiful, varied hike along Vimy Ridge. After the upper switchbacks, there is some snow. The steep scree slope to the tunnel entrance, the transition from the ladder to the 20-meter-long tunnel to the key point, a narrow path with a steel cable on one side and a dizzying abyss on the other, all not without its challenges but doable. After a good 2.5 hours, we enjoy the sun at the lake.

On the way back, a local person says 'the first and probably the last good day in September.' Since we are early, we make the little detour to Hell Roaring Falls (more like 'female farts' in the fall, the devil seems to have a PR agency blessed with an overflowing imagination). Back at the 'Crypt Landing' dock, we stretch our limbs and wait for the boat back to Waterton. A fantastic day! Tomorrow, washing, dumping, and blogging are on the program before we head west to Manning PP and Vancouver Island. It will be hard to say goodbye, Waterton is a very charming and beautiful little village in a very, very beautiful national park.

Don't switch channels, we'll be right back after a short break...