Thailand Part 2: Krabi, Koh Phangan / Tao / Lanta

Our flight went from Chiang Mai via Bangkok to Phuket. And yes, we know what everyone is thinking, what do you want in Phuket? We also asked ourselves this question and that's exactly why we went there (and because the flight there was much cheaper than directly to Krabi...). We chose a hostel in the middle of Patong (if then right) and checked in around 9 pm. Already upon our arrival, we noticed that everything here is really different from what we knew so far. Food was really expensive, not only for Thai standards, but it was already at a European level and people were approached everywhere. Massage, food, happy hour and so on. But that was still bearable. It actually got bad on the party mile. Apart from the really, really bad music (which blared at full volume from every bar and you could hear 2-3 different songs at the same time) and the completely drunk tourists, the worst thing was actually being constantly approached. Because without that, it would have been almost like Mallorca, the level is still significantly lower, but still bearable. But being approached every 2-5 meters, whether you want to go to a ping-pong show (including price list and pictures) and as clever as the Thais are, it was not me who was addressed in this case, but Rahel, who of course was even more thrilled about it. But the Thais knew very well that the guy wouldn't go without his wife, so it went like this every 2 meters, you want ping-pong show?? Good price, cheap cheap. The first 3 times it was really funny, but when you walk for 20 minutes along the party mile and get approached about 50 times, it gets pretty annoying. Actually, we were just looking for a beer after work, but it was too unsympathetic and uncomfortable for us here, so we walked a little further along the beach until we finally found an Irish pub where live music was playing and the Premier League was on TV. What more could you want?? ;-)

So we weren't sad to leave Patong behind the next morning at 7 o'clock and start our way to Krabi by public buses. The nice guy at the hostel had offered to get us a bus ticket for 600 baht, but we preferred the regular public transport, which was also a little cheaper at 240 baht. But in Phuket, everything was a bit different and more expensive. Although for the first part of the journey we sat on the back of a truck (which passes as a bus here because a wooden bench was screwed onto it), we spent the second and much longer part in a comfortable minivan.

After a good 4-5 hours of travel time, we arrived in Krabi and checked out the surrounding area. Since Krabi is not that big, we quickly checked it out and then went to eat at the street food market before we made ourselves comfortable at the hostel bar. There we spent a nice evening playing beer pong, flip cup, and giant Jenga and got to know some really funny Canadians.

Although the night was a bit short, we dragged ourselves out of bed relatively early the next day and rented a scooter (after a relaxed breakfast) to visit some sights. However, we ended up at Ao Nang Beach, 15 km away, to relax a little. After all, such a day is long and the Tiger Cave can wait. In the afternoon, we finally made our way to the cave, which was not impressive at all (and came in a Las Vegas style), but behind which you could climb 1,237 steps for a sensational view in all directions. We thought it was a good idea, so we started walking. After step 350, we wondered if it was really such a good idea, and by step 650, we were considering whether all the stress was really worth it. Our thighs burned, our knees trembled, and we were only at step 900-something, so there was no giving up now. Completely exhausted, we reached the summit just in time for a few photos before a storm rolled in. So we were stuck up there for a while and sought shelter with a few others. After about half an hour of rain, enough time to recover, the storm was over, the sky was clear again (good for a few more pictures), and we made our way back. Unfortunately, the return journey was only slightly more relaxed than the way up, but at least a little. Totally exhausted, we arrived at the hostel, grabbed a 'little something' to eat, and got ready for the departure the next morning to Koh Phangan.

We were picked up by a bus at 8 am, driven overland for 3 hours, and then spent another 1 1/2 hours on the ferry. As always in Thailand, such transfers go smoothly and we were on Koh Phangan around 2 pm. There we were already greeted by the TukTuk mafia and they wanted 150 baht per person to drive us to the hotel. No way, we thought, it's only a few kilometers and so we walked away from the pier first and hoped to get a cheaper TukTuk that way. But every TukTuk driver we approached and told where we wanted to go said that we should go to the pier and pay 150 baht. But apart from the fact that we still thought 150 baht was too much, we didn't want to give in and go back to the idiot we had discussed with for 5 minutes before that we wouldn't pay and then do it later. So we just walked a few streets further and as soon as we were out of sight of the pier, we found a TukTuk right away that took us to the hotel for 200 baht. See, it works after all!!

Our hotel was located on Haad Rin Beach, where the Full Moon Parties take place, unfortunately not while we were there... However, Rahel also started to feel a bit sick (cold, who would have thought??) and for us, chilling was on the program anyway. So we first rented a scooter and explored the island a bit. Bars, restaurants, bays, etc., and then enjoyed the sunset high up in the Amsterdam Bar, as it had been recommended to us several times. Amazing view, relaxed atmosphere, nice people, and mega delicious burgers.

The remaining days were spent changing accommodations, lots of scooter rides, visiting viewpoints + 'waterfalls', hanging out at beaches/bays, sleeping a lot, and being busy with food. Especially the Thai BBQ buffet was an absolute highlight, not only because once again no one could speak English and we had no idea how it worked, but also because it was grilling with fondue in one. So you put meat on top to grill and the juice drips into the soup, in which you can cook all the greens and noodles, etc. Yeah, it tasted just as good as it sounds!

Unfortunately, the weather for the coming days wasn't so good, but since we had already bought our tickets to Koh Tao (and the weather on Koh Samui, Phangan, Tao is basically the same), we had to pack our backpacks the next day and head to the ferry. In continuous rain and strong winds, we boarded the ferry, which was already almost an hour late. After just a few minutes, we realized why, because the waves were extremely high (the speed ferry was bouncing over the waves and sinking 3-4m deep) and vomit bags were immediately distributed to all passengers. After about 20 minutes of sailing, Rahel had to leave the interior and hoped for improvement outside, when she could watch the horizon. Unfortunately, with little success, but in retrospect, it was still better than staying inside the ferry, because the bags were distributed with foresight (and probably also based on previous experiences on the way to Koh Phangan) and there was a regular exchange between used and new bags that hardly anyone could avoid. To put it briefly, it was an hour-long HELLRIDE with an extreme noise level.

Upon arriving on Koh Tao, our shuttle service from the resort was waiting for us (for once luxury and no tough negotiations as usual) and took us to our super nice resort to our cool bungalow, which was built into the mountains. With a good mood, we spent a cozy, rainy evening in the restaurant and hoped for better weather. However, this hope was quickly dashed, because the weather did not change at all over the course of 4 days! And so, although we had gotten used to always being in constant rain (and barefoot), we didn't get to see any of the beauty of the island. Riding a scooter was out of the question, the roads were always filled with water, we only saw the sea, but could not go in. And so, we were glad to have had a nice, big bungalow where we spent 21 hours out of 24. We would have liked to leave Koh Tao earlier, but there was no ferry for 2 days, so we were kind of stuck in the bungalow. We can imagine that the island is beautiful because it was really nice even in continuous rain, but we didn't see and do enough to be able to judge. But one thing is for sure, the hell ride there was definitely not worth it and the return journey / onward journey to Koh Lanta was still ahead of us the next day.

Fortunately, our fear of the crossing was unfounded. We can't say whether it was due to calmer seas, a different ferry, or the anti-nausea tablets we had taken just to be safe, but no bags were filled! Our ferry departed on time, picked up a few more people on Koh Phangan, and also arrived on Koh Samui after a smooth journey. But there was a big surprise there, we all had to leave the ship because the sea was supposedly too rough for this ship, and we were instead loaded into vans. At that time, nobody knew why and with what destination, and when asked, the answer was only: better ship, better ship. Alright then, we thought, let's go to the better ship and got into the vans. We drove for almost 2 hours across Koh Samui and could hardly believe our eyes: Samui was completely flooded. Our driver desperately tried to find roads that were not yet closed or completely underwater, and it was only at that moment that we realized how lucky we had been on Tao. Everything was underwater, roads, houses, shopping centers, markets, everything. The only thing that wasn't underwater was our destination, the car ferry. It freed us from the rain and brought us safely to the mainland. However, with a 2-hour delay, and so we knew that we probably wouldn't catch our ferry to Koh Lanta. But as it goes in Thailand, everything will be taken care of. Minivans picked us up at the ferry, took us to Krabi, where we changed to another minivan for a short time, and then off to Koh Lanta. The car ferry runs until 9 pm, so it was no problem when we arrived at the pier shortly before 8 pm.

We also reached our new accommodation, Pitt Bungalows, shortly after half past 8 and finally enjoyed fresh, dry air for the first time in days. Simply wonderful! We checked in quickly, went a few meters to eat something, and then joined a small cozy group sitting at a few tables at the bar. Since we had only booked one night (and only because Pitt always includes a free scooter when booking a room), we still had no idea at that time how comfortable we would feel sitting at these tables a week later. It was just a relaxed group of people talking about everything and anything in good weather and with a few drinks, and later on, they even grabbed various musical instruments. Guitar, bongos, keyboard, and kazoo (looks and sounds like a toy trumpet at first, but when used correctly...).

The next day, I went to Pitt and asked if we could stay longer, and he just said, yes yes no problem. I asked if the room was still available or if he needed to know how long we were staying, and his answer was only, no no, it's free for you, as long as you want, no problem. That's how it should be, I thought, nothing is a problem, stay as long as you want, and everything is good. That also describes the mood at the entire resort pretty well because over the course of the week, it was quite fully booked (and everyone had only booked one night at the beginning because of the free scooter and then stayed longer), and yet there was always space for everyone.

Pitt Bungalows is located pretty much in the middle of the west side of the island and is therefore a perfect starting point for everything. Whether you wanted to drive north towards the 'capital' or south to one or more of the countless beaches (which we made a hobby of, called beach hopping, at least 3 different beaches a day) or to the east side to Old Town. So there was plenty to see and do during the day and we could also relax in the evening at the Pathe Bar.

On the second evening, we also got to know Selma and Felix from Germany (better). They were already there on our first evening, but we hadn't exchanged much personal information at the time. Over the next few days, we spent quite a lot of time with the two of them (mainly in the evenings at the bar or even playing self-made mini-golf :-) ), because we were on the same wavelength and they made our start much easier. The two of them had been at Pitt for over 10 days and therefore knew Pitt and especially Men (the bartender) extremely well. Men also occasionally organizes (every other day) a seafood BBQ and goes shopping at the market beforehand. Selma and Felix and also Sebastian (Austrian) already knew the procedure, but it was a new world for us. The six of us got on three scooters and followed Men to the market (which was in a different village every day). Once there, he looked for a specific fish (similar to tuna) and bought shrimp, salad, and vegetables. Unbelievable how cheap fish was when a local bought it... In the meantime, we tried some of the various food stalls and then drove back. Men and Selma then started cooking while we did the menial tasks (washing salad, cutting onions, etc.). We had Tom Kha Gai soup, fish + shrimp straight from the grill, and salad to eat. Incredibly delicious and in a small circle, we ended the evening with a few drinks and music (live music by Men). In the meantime, we helped ourselves to beer from the refrigerator and simply made a mark on our list. Just like Pitt, Men was very relaxed and had an incredible amount of trust and honesty towards people. It never occurred to him that someone wouldn't pay or intentionally forgot to make a mark on the list. Just as Pitt didn't assume that someone would leave without paying at some point because he doesn't keep or copy passports, etc. He relies on trust and relaxation, and we all hope that neither of them will ever be disappointed, because that's exactly why (because of the two of them) the place is different from the other resorts / bungalows. During the last few days, we really felt at home and especially welcomed Men into our hearts. So the farewell was also difficult for us, even the farewell Mai Tai at 3 pm couldn't really do much, but still a great gesture Men!