In Eggum and around Eggum and around Eggum

After painfully realizing in Brensholmen that neither our endurance nor our fingers are currently up to the demands of a day of rock climbing, we continue towards Lofoten.

The journey itself is (once again) a real eye-catcher. We cross several fjords on narrow bridges, drive through countless tunnels, and every 5km we hear: "It's so beautiful here!" echoing through the van. And even though encountering curious reindeer is no longer rare during our road trips, we are still amazed by each one we come across. Finally, after a 7-hour drive (which is practically a short distance by Norwegian standards), we reach the Eggum Nature Reserve. We realize that it's not so easy to find a parking space in Norway's prime season, so we end up renting a spot just before the nature reserve for one night - our first paid night since the beginning of our journey.

From here, a small hiking trail begins directly, and under these circumstances, I can't resist taking a little walk. I share the path along the steep coast with only a few other people and many free-roaming sheep. It requires sure footing to maneuver around loose stones and sheep droppings. With a view of the coast on the left, passing by two beautiful mountain lakes and a small chapel on the right, this excursion was definitely worth it.

Coming back, this is our first day on the road that isn't filled from start to finish with winding roads, hikes, or cultural programs, and we both fall asleep early, exhausted.

Even better, because the next day we can head to the Eggum sports climbing area well-rested. It's only on-site that we're told that this is one of the rare sports climbing areas in Lofoten. (Although we definitely did extensive research beforehand!) The island group is of course best known for its rewarding multi-pitch climbs on Presten or the popular photo motif of jumping over Svolvaergeita. Bouldering is also possible here to your heart's content. However, since we don't have crash pads or cams with us, our climbing experience in Lofoten will be limited to a minimum length.

Climbing in Eggum is rather atypical for Norway and mainly offers steep climbing on big pockets and unique rock structures. A climber we meet at the crag aptly describes it as "Flatanger, but for people who are not Adam Ondra". The routes all look incredibly exciting, and the climbing pleasure is only limited by the flock of sheep, which makes the middle part of the sector practically impassable. Additionally, the sun disappears behind thick clouds, and it gets so cold that we are glad to have brought our thick winter jackets for the first time. Some of the truly freezing among us even resort to wearing gloves.

At least on this day, this area is sparsely visited, and we have a wide selection. After warming up on a 7a that was mistakenly declared a 6a in our climbing guide, once again it's the lack of endurance that makes the climbing day relatively short.
We can definitely recommend Eggum simply because of the insane holds. Those who feel comfortable in the French seventh and eighth grades (and aren't bothered by the sheep and their droppings) will surely be able to occupy themselves here for several days.

As they say: If you don't respect the sheep, you're not worthy of the reindeer.

With inflated forearms and aching fingers, we continue to Fredvang.
Until then, stay strong!

The 'Eggum' climbing area at a glance:

Location:

Above a small boathouse near the fjord. Probably mostly dry even in wet weather thanks to the overhang.

Approach:

About a 5-minute walk through the sheep pasture.

Grades:

Several beginner-friendly routes (5b), one 6a and one 6b+, otherwise 7a - 8b.

Rock quality:

Not everything is solid, but nothing is terribly loose either. Great rock structures and ergonomic pockets and slopers!

Type of climbing:

Very physical climbing on good holds in the overhanging part, sometimes very gritty in the vertical part. There are some bulges to overcome.

Recommended routes:

Ildavann (6b+), the extension Sankthansormen (7a) is also nice, Prinsessens soster (7a) & Alopolsa (7b+)