16.-23.05.2019 # Vanuatu, Port Vila/Efate

We manage to pass the time until our departure to Vanuatu quite well. In the lobby of the 'Tropic of Capricorn' there is a cozy sitting area with huge leather armchairs. We settle down there until early afternoon and I use the time to write while Maike slowly reads her Tolino with the battery running low.

Upon arrival at the airport, we can check in immediately and to our delight, we are invited to the lounge right away. Considering the comfortable seating and the rich buffet, we take it relatively easy when the flight number next to 'delayed' appears on the display board. One can endure it a little longer here. Eventually, we take off. Not as comfortable as expected, since the small ATR plane doesn't have a real business section and we sit somewhat cramped, but we are served another delicious meal and get to watch a movie on the tablet. A small disappointment, but we don't want to get used to it anyway.

The immigration process at Bauerfield Airport is quite fast and the friendly officers at the immigration counter even greet in German. So, for the second time, we are in Vanuatu, the Pacific state with around 80 islands, which was hit by a gigantic natural disaster in the form of Cyclone 'Pam' about four years ago. About 90 percent of the buildings were destroyed back then, solely in the capital Port Vila. Thanks to extensive international aid, much could be rebuilt relatively quickly, so the city was already quite intact and modern during our first stay, about a year and a half after the storm. In 2016, we only had an overnight stay between two flights on Efate, because our focus was on the island of Espiritu Santo and diving on the wreck of the 'Coolidge'. This time, however, we stay a whole week in Port Vila.

On the way to the city, we pick up a German couple and thus provide the taxi driver with a little extra income for the 500 m detour, before we check in at the 'Moorings Hotel'. It is located right on the Port Vila Bay, within walking distance from the city center. Our row bungalow on the waterfront is sufficiently spacious, but has almost no storage space. Well, it doesn't really matter whether we live out of our suitcases for a week more or less.

Port Vila has a thriving tourism industry with numerous offers for various activities. So, we are not worried that we will be bored and take it easy. When we take a first stroll through town, we realize that at first glance, hardly anything has changed since our first stay. In the Au Bon Marchè markets, you can do good shopping and also get proper sausages if in need.

The Ni-Vanuatu people still show their national pride on all occasions, without it being pushy. Almost everyone has something in the national colors with them or on them. And of course, you are greeted every now and then as you pass by.

There is a little excitement when we want to withdraw money from an ATM. There is no cash, instead Maike's Visa card gets stuck in the machine without us having a chance to get it out again. Great. Before panic spreads, I run to the nearest bank branch while Maike stays there as a guard. Fortunately, I don't have to wait long until someone takes care of me and promises that someone will be at the ATM in question in 30 minutes to retrieve the card. And behold, we haven't even finished our cool 'Tusker' that we treat ourselves to in the neighboring brewery pub, when a delegation from the bank appears. To free our card and to fill them up with fresh prints at the same time. Two minutes later, Maike has identified herself and got her Visa back. One of the employees says that something like this happens from time to time when the card is not completely flat. It's unimaginable if today had been a Sunday and departure day.

In the evening, the 'Moorings' offers a cultural program. A local band plays various pieces on partly traditional, partly modern instruments. The drums made of bamboo pipes or glass bottles are particularly great. In addition, there are a few amusing presentations about the way of life of the locals, including 'how to peel a coconut with your teeth', as well as interactive dance performances in which we also have to participate. Unfortunately, no one took photos there. :-) During the subsequent photo session, I can try out some of the instruments. The guys are very open-minded and proudly show a few tricks. And when they play for one last dance, they even decide to do an encore. A beautiful evening.

From the many offers of excursions and other activities, we have decided to do a Tree Top Tour with Vanuatu Jungle Zipline. Cable cars and bridges in the treetops sound exciting, so we wait eagerly for our pick-up. Who of course forgets us. Of course, an inevitable cruiser has flooded the island with mostly Chinese tourists and everyone is incredibly busy trying to get a piece of the jackpot. Half an hour after the agreed time, someone from the reception calls the organizer and we finally get our transport. On a hill just outside Port Vila, we are provided with gear including harness, helmet, and gloves by Amanda and Mike. The two founded the company more than ten years ago and know exactly what they're talking about.

We are the last ones in the morning group as Mike takes us to a steel tower about 30 m high. We line up behind a group of Chinese. Naturally, this requires some patience because hardly anyone speaks English and the Chinese are extremely reluctant to listen to any instructions. Overtaking is not possible because everyone is clipped into a continuous safety rope until the end of the trip. Eventually, it's our turn. The first zip line is the shortest of all and the platform across in the tree is easily visible. Nevertheless, it feels strange the first time when the zip line picks up speed and you have no ground under your feet. But it becomes more fun with each ride. The rides get longer, you no longer have to brake yourself and instead, you hang more and more skillfully in the harness without holding on tightly. In the meantime, we also go over wobbly suspension bridges. Nothing for people with fear of heights, because we are certainly 30-40m above the ground. When the rope goes over a gorge twice, even higher. Despite the long wait before each zip, time passes by too quickly. It was a lot of fun.

We also go diving again, it's about time. With 'Big Blue', we do two morning dives to the wrecks of the 'Semele Federsen' and the 'Konanda'. Both beautiful spots that you can visit several times without getting bored. The guides make a quite professional impression and are otherwise very relaxed. Peter from near Cologne is also on board. He has been on tour with his wife Jule and their three children since July last year and will continue until summer. A very pleasant fellow, too bad our paths are separating again so soon. When we hear that his next destination is supposed to be Samoa, we of course recommend Savaii to him. Let's see if he listens to us.

We had registered again the next day. However, this is taken care of when I decide to visit a traditional healer again. A small inconspicuous pimple on my upper arm has become infected and is on its way to grow to the size of a golf ball, at least that's how it feels. Fortunately, there is a decent practice with Australian doctors in Port Vila. We are there on time for the opening, but initially, we are sent away because no doctor is available. Well, let's first go around the corner and have a second breakfast. Two hours later, I get to meet Dr. Tina. She doesn't waste time and prescribes something to stop the infection. After 5 minutes, I'm out again and pleasantly not significantly poorer.

On our last day on Efate, we rent a car from Europcar again. We want to go around the island and, of course, see a few things along the way. The Australian branch manager gives us a few tips, so we decide against our plan to go around clockwise. Driving is mostly quite pleasant. However, you have to constantly expect enormous potholes, and the locals here don't drive as cautiously as those in Samoa, for example.

We make the first stop at Rentapao Waterfall. This time, Maike takes the chance to take a refreshing swim, while I decline. Ewa, who introduces herself as a guide and keeps us company for a few minutes, tells us that both sides of the river are managed by different owners. Each side watches jealously that no customer from the other side comes to 'their' side. When we return to the entrance, the French hostess has prepared a fruit platter for us to refresh. Nice gesture.

Actually, we wanted to stop at the Blue Lagoon. But since we were supposed to pay an entrance fee there again without knowing what to expect, we skip it. In general, it's not that easy to find a stretch of beach where you can simply stop and jump into the water. At such spots, there are usually signs on which the supposed owner announces his prices. They usually even want cash for taking photos. To not offend anyone, we simply take a break on the roadside. The rest of our liver pate has to be eaten and so we got a baguette from the best baker in town before departure.

Later on, we spontaneously stop at the Nasinu Hot Springs. There are pools with different temperatures from hot to very hot and a mud pool. Although it probably sounds quite crazy to sit in hot water with an outside temperature of about 30 degrees, it is very pleasant indeed. And of course, the little child covered in mud appears again. :-)

Back on the road, there is a brief moment of shock. Out of nowhere, a bump appears above the road for speed limitation, unmarked and almost invisible. We're not going too fast, nonetheless, it bangs heavily as we drive over it, and for a moment I fear that the shocks will fly off. But the car is sturdy and remains undamaged.

After missing the last viewpoint before Port Vila (we only have a map like the one used for geography lessons in fifth grade), we are back in the city earlier than planned. Efate is just not that big. But beautiful and interesting for sure, so we don't regret a minute of being here. Let's hope that Port Vila doesn't turn into some kind of Ballermann given the many booming bars.

Our time in the South Seas is slowly coming to an end. After Vanuatu, we will spend two days in New Caledonia before flying to Jakarta via Sydney and Kuala Lumpur.