Verëffentlecht: 28.07.2018
WE DID IT! We had been researching Borneo for quite some time before our trip and stumbled upon Mount Kinabalu. Two of our colleagues had already taken up the challenge and had different stories to tell. Despite the warnings, we put this adventure on our to-do list. And now we can proudly say: we successfully conquered the ascent and descent.
Early Thursday morning at 6 o'clock, we were picked up from our hostel in Kota Kinabalu. We were driven from the coast to the Kinabalu Park, located at around 1,800 meters, in a minibus within two hours. At the park, we had to register, leave behind all the luggage we didn't need for the next two days, and meet our guide. At 08:40 AM, we passed through the Timpohon Gate and started the 6-kilometer climb to the Panalaban Base Camp. At first, there was a short descent, followed by a constant uphill. Along the way, there were small huts with toilets, where we took short breaks to replenish our energy with nuts, protein bars, and apples. After 4 kilometers, we had a longer lunch break where we ate the provided fried rice. The majority of the trail consisted of steps made of natural stone, roots, or wooden stairs. The weather was mostly fine - we experienced different types of vegetation and everything from sunshine to fog. Fortunately, it wasn't too hot, but it also never rained. We arrived at the base camp, 3,272 meters above sea level, shortly after 1 PM. With a time of approximately 4.5 hours, this is an average time for this stage. Apart from mild headaches due to the altitude and tired legs, we successfully completed the first part.
We were assigned to a 4-bed dormitory in the Laban Rata Guesthouse, where we relaxed with two local guys. Besides taking a short walk around the house, we elevated our legs. At 4:30 PM, there was a delicious buffet dinner in the lodge, where we ate to our heart's content. After that, we went to bed and managed to get some sleep, despite the snorers. At 2 AM, our alarm went off again.
By moonlight (it was a full moon), with headlamps and bundled up - it was freezing cold - we started the 3-kilometer journey to Low's Peak. The second stage is above the tree line and leads through rocky terrain. Sometimes we had to pull ourselves up with thick ropes, sometimes we could walk uphill without any assistance. Due to the thin air up here, we moved very slowly, but we still reached our destination at 4,095 meters above sea level just after 5 AM, before sunrise. The obligatory photos on the summit were quickly taken, and then we sought shelter from the icy wind to watch the sunrise. It is breathtakingly beautiful up here, and thanks to the clear view, we had a truly amazing panorama that rewarded us for all our efforts.
As our fingers and toes were almost frozen - despite the great equipment, it was really cold - we started making our way back down. The descent is just as tough, if not tougher. Once back at the base camp, we could replenish our strength with a breakfast buffet and take a short break.
And then it was time to continue the descent. We had to cover the same 6 kilometers and about 1,400 meters of elevation gain that we had on the first day. After only a few hundred meters, our knees were already trembling like jelly, and we were grateful for the hiking poles, which provided some support. Although it took us almost the same amount of time as the ascent on the first day, we were overjoyed and relieved when we arrived back at the Timpohon Gate just after 1 PM - where it all began. We just managed to catch the first bus that took us back to Kota Kinabalu, and we checked into the Mercure Hotel, where we thoroughly enjoyed the benefits of a proper hotel. Meaning: a rain shower in the bathroom, dinner from room service in bed, and a good night's sleep in a comfortable king-size bed :)
Our conclusion: it was challenging, but with the right equipment (hiking boots, thermal underwear, wind jacket, hiking poles, high-protein food, and enough water) and thanks to our great guide, it will be an unforgettable experience that we mastered.
We would like to express a big thank you to all the guides and porters who lead tourists like us up there and carry all the food, drinks, and other things needed at the base camp (mattresses, gas cylinders, and much more). We were glad that we only had our personal belongings on our backs. Hats off to all these men and women!
And how we feel on the day after: we have some muscle soreness, but we haven't planned much and are now relaxing on the hotel's rooftop terrace. That's all part of it :)
Oh, and one more thing: as Nemo already said/sang: 'we've been to the Kinabalu - to the Kinabalu' :D
+++ UPDATE +++ The video contains more spectacular images of the ascent and descent: