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4.1.2018: Motukiekie Beach - a gem among New Zealand's beaches

Published: 09.01.2018

The small coastal town of Punakaiki is probably known to almost all New Zealand travelers for its Pancake Rocks, but it has much more to offer. However, only a small part takes the time to thoroughly explore the surrounding natural beauties.

In addition to the already visited Punakaiki Cavern and the currently inaccessible Fox River Cave, there is also the Maori Sea Cave, for example. Unfortunately, my guidebook does not mention that it can only be accessed at low tide, as I later find out at the tourist information center. I do find the small trail that runs along the highway bridge, but the tide has already reclaimed large parts of the beach. Well, that was a failed attempt. Well, it was at least just a nice-to-have on my list.

Next, I go to the Porari River Track, which I walked four years ago, but it made a positive impression on me and I still remember that someone told me back then that I should have turned left instead of right at the intersection at the very end. Then I would have come to an impressive swingbridge after just a few meters. So today, I walk along the beautiful one-hour track along the brown-colored Porari River for the second time and turn left at the mentioned intersection. After a few steps, the bridge comes into view, but it doesn't take my breath away. The person who described it probably hadn't seen that many at that time. The Porari River Track, by the way, will be part of the new Great Walks, which I recently mentioned.

Back at the car, I spontaneously decide to visit the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks for the third time, because this time it's high tide and so far I've only seen them at low tide or mid-tide. But it's only at high tide that they reveal their full splendor and the sea shows its almost limitless power. The water shoots over the 'stacked pancakes' of stone almost up to the visitor platform, which leads to many 'Ohs' and 'Ahs' among the spectators. The waves crashing against the rock walls with thunderous sound even make the ground beneath our feet vibrate. It's one wow moment after another.

After finishing my tour, I book a cave tour for tomorrow in Charleston by phone, as well as a hostel in Westport for the next two nights.

Then, I go to Motukiekie Beach, but the search is not as easy as I had hoped. The parking lot listed on Google Maps only takes me to a viewpoint above the cliffs, but I need beach access. Once again, I consult my guidebook, which tells me that there is a small open area after a bridge where you can park your car. From now on, it's a waiting game, because the beach is only accessible at low tide and unfortunately, that is not until 7:30 p.m. I pass the hour and a half by writing blog posts, and two hours before low tide, I finally set off.

Motukiekie Beach is a real treasure trove. On the one hand, there are all these special stones - in Dalmatian pattern, white and almost transparent, pitch black, turquoise to almost blue and red. A colorful palette stretches under my feet. On the other hand, the beach is lined with rock arches, caves, and amusing rock formations, and the wafting mists create an almost mystical atmosphere. According to my trusty travel guide, it takes an hour to reach a rock with a large hole. That's exactly how long it takes me. From here on, I switch to water shoes, because the water level still reaches my knees. But none of the other beachgoers have walked this far, and I have this part all to myself. After taking some photos, I make my way back. The sea has receded far by now, revealing rocks covered with what feels like a thousand seashells and starfish. I have truly never seen so many at once. The only drawback is the resident seagull colony, which immediately makes it clear what they think of intruders in their territory - absolutely nothing. They scream loudly at me as they fly just above my head, so close that I can feel the beat of their wings. One even tries to poop on me. Little devil; thankfully it missed. However, the lack of a welcoming culture among the animal beach residents should not deter a traveler from visiting Motukiekie Beach. It's worth it!

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