Alpe-Adria Cycle Path - Stage 5

Tarvisio - Venzone (60 km) - Apparently our lament was heard, although yesterday morning in Tarvisio everything still looked gray, at least nothing else came from above as predicted, and the sun even showed up for the rest of the day. So we started at 10 am and immediately joined the old railway line again. First, we go slightly uphill for another 3.5 km and overcome a beautiful plateau that resembles a park landscape. Then the route descends, and that's the wonderful thing about this stage: since it is a former railway line, both inclines and declines are very moderate, so you hardly need to use the brakes. We pass through the first tunnels (there will be a total of 27), the longer ones are very well lit, cross to the other side of the Fella River, cross several spectacular road and railway bridges, and finally reach Pontebba, where the Italian-Austrian border ran until after the First World War. In Café della Porta, we have our first cappuccino, right in the village center.

What follows is possibly some of the best experiences you can have on two wheels! After passing through the village, we return to the railway line. Now tunnels and bridges follow one after another, high above on the valley side, behind every curve awaits a new fantastic view of the valley. Side valleys with waterfalls, spectacular bridges (the old railway bridges have been extensively restored for the bike path), and wild vegetation. It smells of thyme and rosemary, and it is clear that we are now heading south. In Chiusaforte, we stop at the former train station building, which has become a meeting place for bikers and locals. Very friendly and atmospheric! We continue - still on the track - until Resiutta, where the developed bike path temporarily ends. However, helpful locals have sprayed a sign on the bike path, directing you to a path that is not yet developed. It is a bit bumpy but easily passable, and it avoids a few kilometers on the main road SS13, which is very busy and somewhat unpleasant with many trucks. The last 3-4 km to our accommodation cannot be avoided, but it is neither dramatic nor does it spoil the wonderful experience of this stage. Interestingly, despite the relatively large number of bike tourists, you often have the feeling of being completely alone on the road.

We reach the Alma Living Hotel, about 3.5 km before Venzone, which turns out to be a very friendly place with excellent restaurant where many locals from the area also come for dinner (which says enough for Italy). But before that, we quickly stored our luggage and got back on the saddle to visit the medieval town of Venzone. Actually, it is not completely medieval anymore. In 1976, during the devastating earthquake series in May and September, Venzone was practically leveled to the ground. A citizens' committee decided to rebuild the city based on over 100,000 photographs that were used to assign and number the debris. An incredible achievement, and as the pictures show, it was more than worth the effort.

By the way, dinner and breakfast at the Alma Living Hotel were first class. We especially want to commend the fact that in the morning, cappuccino is prepared at the bar and not, as unfortunately is now the case in many places in Italy, from a vending machine!