Გამოქვეყნდა: 23.09.2016
Day 1:
Today is the day! The day we've been waiting for! Our journey into the Amazon jungle, the most dangerous natural place on earth, can finally begin on the famous Amazon River. Or so we thought! After a phone call between the hostel owner and the captain, it turns out that the boat, which was supposed to set sail today at 2 pm, will only leave tomorrow morning at 6 am. Well, that's fine, we thought. It gave us more time to do some last-minute shopping. We had a shopping list: a hammock, enough drinking water, sweets/snacks, and fresh fruit. After a local kindly helped us buy the hammock, we took it to the cargo ship Eduardo VI. There we set up our "camp" and then left the boat to do the rest of our shopping. In the evening, we returned on board with our luggage and food. The rest of the evening, we watched as our neighbor's ship was loaded. The simple boxes and sacks (30-50 kg) were carried on the backs of countless porters onto the ship. It was hard to believe that they also allowed two 40-ton trucks to drive onto the boat on wooden planks. We had even bet on when the planks would break, but the locals obviously knew better. The planks held the weight, and both trucks safely made it onto the boat. After the biggest spectacle was over, we spent some time on the upper deck, where we were promptly attacked by giant beetles. They simply hooked onto our clothes or skin and were not that easy to get rid of. You can see a specimen of it in the pictures. After the insect plague became too much for us, we retreated to the hammocks and slept happily, finally able to start the journey.
Day 2:
RING!!!!! RING!!!! RING!!!! The bell rings with deafening noise. It is 5 or 6 in the morning, I'm not sure. In any case, it's breakfast time! Still half asleep, we watch as all the Peruvians rush downstairs to get their coveted breakfast. There are 2 butter rolls and a white soup (possibly milk or just Amazon water). At the sight of it, we prefer to skip it and settle for the rolls and a couple of mandarins we brought with us. After breakfast, it's finally time to go. The boat sets sail, and we begin our journey towards Iquitos, a large city (600,000 inhabitants) in the middle of the jungle (no civilization within a radius of 450 km), which is only accessible by river or plane. We navigate through relatively narrow and, in some places, shallow waters. A small dinghy with a crew armed with a long pole to measure the depth of the water goes ahead. Our cargo ship, for the sake of simplicity, has apparently dispensed with sonar or GPS, not even a simple echo sounder, a long wooden pole has to suffice. After passing through the narrow sections, the river widens again, and we enjoy the surrounding landscape. Lots of green and partly densely wooded sections, fields, and occasional huts on the riverbank. The panorama was breathtaking and inviting to relax and linger in the hammock. When the clock struck twelve, the dining bell rang again as punctual as ever. Lunchtime!! And the Peruvians rushed to the kitchen again. It was chicken with rice (what a surprise). The food was filling but would have failed miserably in any Michelin-starred restaurant. To its credit, it was at least generous portions. At least there was no shortage of rice. After mouths and bellies were full, it was time, once again, for a little digestive nap or to otherwise stay in the hammock. I (Max) must honestly admit that by this time, I had already fallen in love with the hammock. I spent the following days, except for visits to the restroom and meals, exclusively in the hammock, and it was great! (Note from Marius: He really had to be forced to get up, for example, to look at the night sky) But now back to the day; In the afternoon, we were caught in a monsoon-like rain shower, which darkened the sky and drummed the water on the roof of the boat. After an hour, the rain stopped, and the sky cleared up. Perfect for the upcoming night. But before it got dark, there was once again the beloved ringing of the dining faction. There was a soup consisting of overcooked noodles, plantain, and a piece of beef. Yammy ;) (Note from Marius: I'm pretty sure everything was cooked with Amazon water) After a breathtaking sunset, which Max only saw in the photos (he was in the hammock), it got dark, and after digesting in the hammocks, we went to the bridge towards the control room. The sky was breathtaking. Countless stars were visible, the Milky Way in all its clarity, and even the planets Mars and Venus. An incredible spectacle that we witnessed. Even more incredible was the fact that our ship, after already dispensing with all the high-tech gadgets like GPS and sonar, also completely dispensed with lighting. For orientation, a spotlight was activated every minute, illuminating the horizon in a 25-meter range from left to right. We thought it was magnificent and then went to bed with blind trust (here in Peru, you can't do otherwise).
Day 3:
How can the day start any better?! Right! Did we have ringing in the morning before? So new day, new luck! We once again got our two rolls with butter as usual. Today, there was again a soup that looked like river water. We politely declined once again. The day started as usual, calmly. After eating, we sat in the hammocks again, listening to music. The boat headed towards a port/mud hill with a few huts on top, and suddenly, there was a flurry of activity on board. Everyone packed their things, and we were asked to leave the boat. Everyone was a bit perplexed, but we followed the captain's instructions. On land, we were greeted by Indians with spears. Great reception, we thought, and I believe our confusion was clearly visible on our faces. We gathered in the village square. There, one of the Indians/residents began a speech. It was mainly about pointing out the injustices caused by the oil companies that are present there. They systematically pollute and poison the water, deforest the land, and the villagers, despite promises made to them, are not given employment in any of the companies. To express their demand for more justice, they have set up a river blockade that has been in place for over 24 hours. That's why we had to dock with the boat and listen to the whole thing. A good cause, actually, and interesting that environmental protection is perceived globally and not just a German phenomenon. After the speech, we went back on board, and the boat chugged along the river again. After a short time, it was already time for lunch again. Today, we had delicious rice (who would have guessed), with noodles and beans, and a small piece of chicken. After the hearty lunch, we returned to our familiar and trusted hammock. There, we could relax and contemplate about life while enjoying the music and the panoramic landscape. Wonderful! And so, the hours passed, and it became evening. On this evening, we witnessed a magnificent sunset, which colored the sky in shades of lilac and, ultimately, in a spectacular golden hue. At that time, the water was so calm, and the air so clear that the reflections of the sky and the landscape in the water were wonderful and clearly visible. A truly enchanting sight! For dinner, and now you can guess three times?! Right... it was potatoes with rice and chicken! Wuhuuuu! After surviving another evening with rice and chicken, we looked at the stars one last time before the night fell, and we tiredly retreated to the hammocks.
Day 4:
The day of arrival! After a slightly hectic night (many had to get off at a station during the night, and there was a lot of activity on deck), the morning for us once again began with the usual ringing in the morning. We declined the soup once again and got our two butter rolls. Just a few more hours, and we would finally reach Iquitos. Enjoying the last hours on board, taking in the panorama of the Amazon. Relaxing in the hammock one last time, listening to music, and relaxing until it was finally time around noon. We reached the port of Iquitos. The boat tour ended, and we set off with moto-taxis to the hostel. There we want to take the day to explore the city and do some urgent laundry. We're running out of clothes. But we're optimistic and confident that we will find a laundromat.
Until then, dear friends
Greetings Marius and Max
PS: The only thing that prevents our cargo ship cruise from becoming a 5-star luxury liner is the sanitation facilities. (See pictures)