A journey to the Orient

After not being able to leave Europe so far, I am allowed to take a sniff of oriental air here. The extensive Marhaba Salem hotel complex in Sousse, Tunisia impresses with its great food, well-maintained grounds and direct beach access, while outside the supervised complex, a different world opens up. Completely new terrain for me.

On the second day, I'm already searching for the Medina (old town) with its thousands of stalls. The Medina is said to be one of the largest in the Islamic world, surrounded by walls. In 1988, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its beautiful Islamic architecture.

I barely walk half of the approximately four-kilometer walk when Salim greets me on the street as an "old friend" and says he saw me at the hotel. I sense trouble 😈😂! However, since I'm not completely unprepared and don't exactly know where this "Medina" is located, I accept his offer to show me the Medina and the old town festival on his day off. Spice traders line up next to leather shops, jewelry stores, and suppliers of "original" Nike, Adidas, and Sketchers sneakers and textiles at bargain prices 😂.

He leads me straight into one of three guaranteed state-certified shops (😈🔫) - here, a shop with custom-made leather jackets... Even Salim's German greeting to the shopkeeper is intended to show him: he's German and you know how to address him. Of course, I swear I don't want to buy anything. But somehow I'm Salim's best friend (😈😂) and therefore part of the family... He doesn't care at all that I don't want to buy anything 🤣. He shows me leather jackets, and secretly I have to admit that the lambskin leather is really top quality - no junk. Just don't show interest, otherwise you're lost!! I'm lucky (😂), this day was the last day he would offer a 30% discount (😂🙈), so quick calculations in my pocket calculator turn 4600 Tunisian dinars (1500 euros) into only 3200 dinars (1050 euros) 🤣

I won't keep you in suspense - my sacred promise as a small retiree not to be able to afford such a jacket comes to an end after half an hour and his outrageous efforts at a price of 400 dinars (125 euros) 🤣🤣🤣 - I think the good piece is worth it, as you definitely can't get this quality for that price in our country 😂🙈 He certainly still earns something from it... I can already tell you that I wear the good piece often and gladly...

Afterwards, Salim drags me to a jewelry store (also state-certified - recognizable by a certificate in Arabic script, which could also be a menu 😅) and a spice trader, and realizes that there's nothing more to get out of me, so he quickly says goodbye - but not without squeezing out another 40 dinars for his needy family 😈 (didn't he say an hour ago that he didn't have a family??). It's worth it to me, he invested two hours of his time, and the equivalent of 12 euros is more than a normal day's earnings for him. The average salary of a waiter is 150-200 euros per month, about 9 euros per day!

The day after tomorrow, I visit the Medina again, but this time I take more time. My uncertainty regarding the knowledge of the third largest city in Tunisia has disappeared, and I can enjoy this huge labyrinth of the daily market, partly covered in tunnels. In the end, I visit the fish market. I have never seen freshly caught squid in this size! In the last few meters, I also come across a butcher who offers various types of meat at his stand. The German health department would have a fit. Refrigeration? Non-existent!

I'm becoming a bit of a Tunisia fan in these two weeks. Surely it's because the mentality of the people is much more "relaxed". When I watch people at work, there's never any rush. Everyone does what they're supposed to do. Slowly. Deliberately.

Investing a 10 dinar banknote as a tip in the first few days doesn't really hurt us. For the staff, it's a lot of money and they appreciate it with dedicated service! In the second week, I give another tip.

I noticed that locals still wear long-sleeved jackets despite an outdoor temperature of -pleasant for me- 22 degrees. They think it's cold 😂🙈. The majority wears black, for whatever reason. Could it be because of Ramadan?

It's a bit annoying that as a tourist, you're inevitably recognized and constantly approached. Maintaining eye contact with locals in crowded places is stressful - someone constantly thinks you need a taxi or a tour guide. I can't stop saying "no" and waving my hand 🙈 - it's just annoying. When I'm approached, I simply don't react.

You quickly get used to Tunisian traffic: there are traffic rules, but no one follows them. It's a chaotic hustle and bustle of too many cars, all taking each other's right of way somehow. Honking is always an option. As a pedestrian, you just start crossing the street, no one voluntarily stops. Despite the traffic, I haven't seen many dented cars and haven't witnessed any accidents. So everything somehow works out 🤷🏻‍♂️😅 Tunisians are extremely friendly. Well, maybe not always selfless (they often want only the best for us... 😇), but that's not any different in other countries either. Sometimes more, sometimes less. I find it pleasant that you don't need a visa for Tunisia. And the quality of the water is probably much better compared to Egypt. What annoys me more are hotel guests who apply European standards and complain about small things 🤦‍♂️, ignoring the price-performance ratio!

During my two-week stay, I get used to taking a multi-hour tour on foot at least every other day, averaging 10-12 km. Often off the beaten tourist paths - getting to know the country and its people. It's tiring, but I'm not on vacation, I'm on a journey. So I don't feel too guilty in the evening at the buffet.

The positive impressions outweigh the negatives. I will gladly come back. But with less luggage. The quick washing of clothes worked so well that you can easily get by with three sets of underwear, T-shirts, and socks.

Best regards,

Michael, April 2023