Diterbitake: 31.03.2018
Today we made our way from Greymouth to Okarito, a small village on the Tasmanian coast, located 20 km away from the Franz Josef Glacier. In Kumara, on the first day of our bike tour, we purchased three extremely fabulous photos printed on aluminum dibond from a small studio. We picked them up - by car. Cool!! (Soon we will need a big house for all the pictures!) After that, we went to Hokitika Gorge. The photos on the internet had enchanted us with the Hokitika River's milky turquoise color. Today in the rain, it was still milky, but not combined with a turquoise appearance, but with gray! Gray goes with everything, right?
In the early afternoon, we arrived at our accommodation in Okarito (Code Time Lodge). Awesome place, although it didn't compare to the ones in Karamea or Tauranga Bay (unfortunately, it also didn't have a washing machine). After some chilling and dinner, we went to the meeting point for the Kiwi Tour that Janina had booked a few days earlier. We were not allowed to wear anything that rustles, and mobile phones or cameras were also taboo, unfortunately, and patience was necessary! The guide named Mike described the features of kiwis and the kiwi territories around Okarito. On that day, we set out to see the kiwi named 'BZ'. The other kiwis had proper names, like Joline for example. When we arrived at the car park for the Pakihi Walk, our group of seven was given two walkie-talkies, flashlights, and mosquito net hats. We also put on safety vests because we were near a road. Then Mike gave us commands because talking or making loud noises was strictly forbidden. So, just before 8 pm, we started walking and went about 300 m along the path before we were told to stop. We always walked in a line and lined up like beads on a string, so that everyone could see in case a kiwi appeared. After walking back and forth and standing around for a while without making a sound, we ended up on the road... Mike was walking around the whole time with a directional antenna, trying to locate 'BZ'. Now here comes the highlight of this 150 NZ dollar tour (for 2 people): The kiwis there are equipped with a transmitter on their leg! However, only the male kiwis are marked, which serves the purpose of taking away the eggs from the brooding kiwis (the males brood and the (larger) females take care of the food). These eggs are then hatched in a wildlife center and the kiwi babies are raised and released on predator-free islands, where they can grow up in peace. When they are big enough to defend themselves, they are brought back to their original area. Since the number of Okarito kiwis/rowi in Okarito National Park has steadily increased (to about 500) due to these protection measures, some eggs are now hatched by the local kiwis. So, in the past year, the first kiwi families could be observed without any human intervention. So, for example, 'BZ' lives together with his son 'Beau'. After a short time on the road, we moved a bit over to the car park and then it happened: We heard rustling, splashing, and we felt like the kiwi was right in front of us. Mike had a red light with him and then he shone it in the direction in front of us, and there was 'BZ'!! But he was already running, past us and disappeared on the other side of the car park! We all got to see the surprisingly big guy. Definitely about 30 cm tall, round, brownish-gray, with a big beak and thick 'feet'. The funniest thing about his escape was that he hopped like a rabbit :)))) That was very funny! And this image also stayed in our memory, the illuminated kiwi as it hopped into a bush and disappeared again :)) After that, Mike tried to make him visible for us a second time, but without success. He had withdrawn to his feeding corner and it was unclear if and when he would come out again. And so, just before 10 pm, the tour ended and we were super happy to have seen and heard the New Zealand icon in its natural habitat!! And right next to the car, a possum looked at us with big eyes...