Diterbitake: 03.11.2018
The journey went well, despite weekend traffic. The Chileans are also drawn to the sea. The air and water temperatures are still a bit chilly, but there are many flowers blooming in almost kitschy color combinations. I'm not a botanist, but they look like gerberas. The beaches and the sea are just as beautiful here. There are also many restaurants and shops. Since there are hardly any hotels, I decided to stay in a cabin again. The name should have been a warning 'Tu bosque' (Your forest). It actually exists here and consists of pine and eucalyptus trees. I wasn't sure about the eucalyptus trees by their appearance, but when you rub a leaf between your fingers, you can smell that typical intense aroma. Dogs everywhere again, behind fences - four-legged alarm systems. They bark the loudest and when one starts, the whole neighborhood joins in. A big one then came straight towards me - he was not in a good mood and barked at me with deep warning growls. I can usually handle dogs, but this one wouldn't let me pass. Running away is not an option either, but a slow retreat worked. Payment in cash for the accommodation: 93,000 pesos (€119) for 2 days is fine and the cottage is also nice and spacious, with a terrace, but the ATMs only dispense 100,000 pesos per withdrawal, so I was unable to pay with the remaining 75,000 pesos. The responsible woman took it in stride and remained friendly. So, no problem for now. ATMs in Isla Negra? Unfortunately not, but 3 km away. I see it as a sport and start walking, passing the traffic jam on the coastal road. There were already two ATMs in close proximity. A small line of people waiting had formed in front of them. Being self-sufficient primarily means buying coffee, wine, bread, etc. But in the supermarket, there is only one type of real coffee and it comes in whole beans. Should I grind it with a stone? No. There is plenty of tea and of course mate here too, a wide selection of wine as well, even cocoa. Well, then I decided to go for an instant cappuccino instead. I dismissed the idea of cooking.
Internet (WiFi) is also not directly available in the cottage, but there is a WiFi zone in the form of 4 wooden benches and a kind of porch swing outdoors. Presumably, the idea was to promote direct verbal communication among the residents. So, I find myself on the swing from time to time, sometimes with wine, sometimes with coffee. A grilling couple would probably prefer to be alone, but I greet them friendly, because as a solo traveler, I rely on internet communication. They wish me a good night.
You may be wondering why I even came here. The tourist highlight is Neruda's 2nd house, which he loved.
I go out again to test the gastronomy.