Greece

ICT Bike Tour 19: Agkistro - Kato Nevrokopi  60 km 1000 hm - Drama 40 km 200 hm

The Greek part of the EuroVelo 13 is unworthy of a European cycle route and largely impassable. The steepness of the climbs and the condition of the paths push us to our physical limits and sometimes lead to emotional discussions among us. Dominique rightly questions the purpose multiple times, a question that I cannot and do not want to answer conclusively. The route is historically understandable as it follows the Metaxas Line, which, similar to the Maginot Line in France, was a defensive wall on the Bulgarian-Greek border to defend against German attackers. It was established by the Greek dictator Ioannis Metaxas and consists of 21 fortifications, some of which, like Fort Kallis, are still standing. However, the German attackers managed to break through the Metaxas Line, surround the Greek troops, and force their surrender. We cycle uphill towards Fort Kallis, the path is long and arduous, with more than half being impassable due to steepness or path condition. At the top, we can see parts of the fortification in the distance. After a few additional meters of elevation, it goes steeply down into the valley. The path is roughly gravelled and requires the utmost concentration during the descent. Dominique turns away after a few meters and falls - the mood is at a low point. We have been on the road for almost two hours now. After a few kilometers of concentrated and exhausting descent, we reach an asphalted road and pass through two villages on the ascent. Now begins the next 9 km long ascent on a path that is 80% impassable. We try to ride whenever possible, but need to dismount at least 30 times. Pushing the bikes on the steep, sandy ground and dealing with the many mosquitoes demand everything from us. We have to help each other several times while pushing. After about 2 hours and 30 minutes, we reach the highest point at 1200 m after 32 km. It is 3:30 p.m. and our destination Drama is still almost 70 km away. It is a disgrace for Greece that it does not maintain this less than 100 km long section of the EuroVelo 13 better. The descent on the sandy trail to the asphalted road is also not easy, and we are glad that there is something to eat in the café in the next small village besides coffee. It starts raining now, but we have to push through it, as there are still 55 km to Drama. Most of the kilometers are downhill, with only one more climb demanding our strength, so we arrive at the hotel in Drama at 8 p.m. After beer, ouzo, tzatziki, and delicious fish, some of the hardships of the day are forgotten. While Harald processes the day and writes his report as he does every evening, I sink into bed, totally exhausted. I am done for today and so glad that we have completed today's stage.

Bike Tour (off the EuroVelo 13): Drama - Kavala 40 km

In the morning, we take it easy and the sun is shining beautifully. During breakfast, we watch the hustle and bustle on the paths and roads. Today, we have only a short distance to the coast to Kavala, where we will meet our loyal companion Lothar. We are very excited and thrilled. There is a lot to talk about. During a walk through the old town, we visit some of the sights such as the 270 m long and 25 m high Kamares Aqueduct from the 16th century, the towering castle overlooking the city, and the Halil Bey Mosque.

Friday, June 16: Rest day in Kavala

After more than 1000 km without a break, we treat ourselves to a day of rest and relaxation before returning to Bulgaria through Komotini and back to the Rhodope Mountains. In the morning, we use the time for planning and reading the newspaper. Then we get on our bikes (we just can't do without it anymore) and ride 15 km along the coast to the west. In a small seaside town, we sit in a beach café, look at the sea, and have time to chat. In the evening, we are in a very good taverna in the old town, where Dominique and Lothar get moussaka as requested, and I get fish.

Bike Tour (without EuroVelo 13): Kavala - Komotini 100 km flat

Lothar is a bit nervous about riding such a long distance with his folding bike. But to cut to the chase, it's not a problem for someone as fit and experienced in cycling as Lothar. He even takes the lead during sections with strong headwinds. Overall, the route is easy to navigate but not very scenic. Apart from near Kavala and a section after 80 km, there is little to see from the coast. There is also very little traffic, so we can comfortably chat with a Dutchman who is on his way to Georgia. One of his first questions is whether we have had any bad experiences with dogs. He is genuinely afraid and tries to avoid the villages. We take a break in Xanthi and at a high-end confectionery in a village, where our eyes overflow with the selection of tarts, cream pastries, and cakes. We wonder who buys all of this, but during the time we spend in front of the shop drinking coffee, numerous cars stop by. Lothar believes that only the upper class shops here, traveling from far away in sometimes strange vehicles (see photo). Shortly before Komotini, we climb a few meters as we are redirected - a large section of the main road has been washed away.