39. Stage 'Wakhan Valley'

I was up early and was able to have an extensive shower and start packing before breakfast. Around 7 AM, Gerrit and I had breakfast. He was still dealing with the breakdown of his motorcycle. Later, while I was loading my motorcycle, Gerrit came to the conclusion that everything must be OK. So Gerrit packed as well, and before we headed to Wakhan Valley, we went to fuel up and have a coffee. However, on the way to the center, it became apparent that Gerrit's motorcycle was still broken. We parted ways; Gerrit drove back to the guesthouse and I headed towards Wakhan Valley. The ride went well, I drove very slowly and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. At some point, however, I had the feeling that the rear shock absorber might be defective.

I will take a look at that tomorrow. During breakfast, Jeroen had already informed me that a bridge had been washed away just past Langar, and I was facing a difficult river crossing. This was confirmed to me in the evening at a guesthouse in Zong by a group of Polish cyclists who had come from there. One should not attempt the crossing alone and only try in the morning. During tomorrow morning, I will arrive there and assess the situation. For dinner, they invited me to their table, and we spent a nice evening together. Among other things, they had also cycled through the Bartang Valley, which seemed quite reckless to me. As always, the same applies to Wakhan Valley: stunning landscape, modest roads.

02.08.2024:  Due to the broken bridge, I set off around 8 AM. I wanted to take advantage of the low morning water level to cross the river. The ascent to this point was quite strenuous. But to my surprise, they had built something like a temporary bridge with two large concrete pipes. I was able to cross it relatively safely without accompaniment. When I reached the plateau, the Pamir Highway seemed to be within reach. Unfortunately, the route to get there turned out to be extremely unpleasant. Corrugated iron track, deep sand, potholes - all of the finest quality. I was relieved when I finally reached the M41 and eventually arrived at my guesthouse in Murghab. Tomorrow, Gerrit will stop by on his way to Osh. I am already curious about his story.