The discovery of the Land of Cockaigne on the Tuscan Archipelago

I had chosen Elba based on a tip from the Finale Ligure cycling group. And the Tuscan Archipelago fit perfectly into my route. It was just a two-hour train ride from Pisa to the port city of Piombino, and from there, the island was only an hour-long ferry ride away. From the ferry port and main town of Portoferraio, I cycled for a short while to the other side of the not-so-big island and found the campsite in Porto Azzuro in a perfect location. Right next to a small, private pirate bay that was somewhat sheltered from the still easily accessible village center.

The end of the season was already noticeable, as there were only a few campers on the site. One of them, with a license plate from Garmisch, and also armed with an enduro bike, approached me after a short time and asked if I had been to Kienjoch on Ascension Day. I couldn't believe it, he actually recognized me, even though we hadn't spoken a word back then and dozens of bikers were crowding the summit. The person from Garmisch had been there before and knew the island accordingly well. He provided me with enough tips for a full program in the next few days. And Elba is truly a paradise for biking. A mountain range ran right through the island, and countless built and natural trails wound through the forests, some on soft forest floor, others on stone slabs and rocky terrain. The descents were correspondingly diverse, often offering a magnificent view of the island from above and passing by secluded coves to end at deserted sandy beaches by sparkling blue sea. I have to admit that it is a truly worthwhile alternative to the high mountains of the Alps.

After several days of intensive exploration of the eastern part of the island, I was drawn to the west, to the coastal town of Marina da Campo. Here, the Monte Capanne, towering over everything else on the island at an impressive 1019 meters, could be found. Unfortunately, not very rewarding in terms of biking, I still managed to reach 900 meters on a pass towards the Il Semaforo trail. By the way, that trail is a real treat, but I had to be patient until the last day on the island. I was rewarded with an exhilarating descent in perfect sunshine and great views of Corsica.

After exploring all the significant trails on the island, it was time to say goodbye to Elba. I now had less than a week left before I had to return to Munich. So, I wanted to use the time to explore further in Tuscany on the mainland.