Königsdisziplin Surfing

As attentive blog readers, you probably already know what's on the agenda today: that's right, today we're going surfing - but first, we need to get the surfboard. So off to the swimming pool, where the lifeguard himself loads the precious piece into the car for us. Quickly, a recommendation for the beach with the best waves for 'surf beginners' and off we go. It's already a cool sight: our red Beetle loaded with the blue surfboard sticking out on top. Mom is driving and I'm sitting in the back - if you didn't know any better, you'd think we do this regularly.

Once we arrive at the beach, we unload. Fortunately, the beach is right next to the road, so the distances with all the equipment are not too long. So let's go into the water and look for the perfect wave, that's the motto. But easier said than done, after all, it's only my third time on the board, with the last two surfing days being a year ago. But those who know me know that I don't give up easily, and eventually I stand up on this board - a true sense of accomplishment. Out there in the waves, I am timeless - paddling, spotting the perfect wave, paddling again, gaining speed, then standing up and off we go. In theory, it sounds easy (and easy to memorize for doctors :)), but in practice, I can count my successful surfs on one hand. But at least I fought hard for them, and without any professional help! Eventually, my ambition is exhausted and I am initially defeated by the waves.

A second surfing session follows in the afternoon, this time on the shore of Lahaina, where the waves are just as high as in the morning. It should also be mentioned at this point that I could not have had this fun without my mom's help. Just transporting the board to the beach alone is an incredible effort and would be impossible to handle alone. In addition, she was my personal 'surf guard' the whole time and besides taking photos and videos, she also made sure I wasn't knocked out by my own board.

Although we didn't capture my best surfing attempt on video, here's a video from another time when it worked out halfway (although from a distance):

https://vimeo.com/362727858

Even this time, the waves don't make it easy for me, but I catch a lucky wave here and there, and that's what counts in the end. Surfing is just in a league of its own and requires a lot of practice. Learning to take blood samples is a piece of cake compared to that! :D

The second surf session is a bit shorter than in the morning, because even the most ambitious hula girl eventually gets tired. So quickly rinse off the board and stow it in the car before we head home.

We spend today's sunset exhausted but happy on our own terrace - it's worth noting that it's the best one so far in our vacation. The perfect end to this eventful day, which I hope to dream about tonight. Tonight, the surfboard gets to spend the night in our apartment and tomorrow it will be returned undamaged to its familiar home.