Ecuadorian Amazon region - Laguna Grande, Cuyabeno

Due to heavy rainfall, a road between Quito and Lago Agrio, the starting point of the jungle tour, is not passable, so I am taking the longer night bus journey from Banos. After ten hours of bus ride, another two hours in a minivan, and another two hours boat ride on the Cuyabeno River, we arrive at our lodge and accommodation for the next four days. It is truly located in the middle of nature.

It is currently the rainy season, which is evident from the abundance of water around us. However, it hardly rains during the day and does not affect our daily routine at all. The scenery during the first boat trip is simply breathtaking. The water is truly smooth as a mirror, with not a single wave distorting the view. The trees reflect in the dark but clear water, creating the illusion of twin brothers. The boat, propelled by our guide with a paddle, glides silently with minimal bow wave. It almost feels like flying as we hover between real trees above and illusions below the undetectable waterline.

I can't imagine how it looks like during the dry season. No lagoons, the river barely has water, and the trees stand on land, forming a forest where you can walk around. However, you are much more likely to see animals up close and frequently, as they have to stay within a smaller radius.

It is a shame that I can't observe all the animals up close, but it is enough for me to know that they exist and that they are not being heavily bothered by humans in this area.

The pink river dolphin, which is not really pink but more silver-gray (the color is only temporary, when the light skin reddens due to excitement, similar to humans), can be spotted in the lagoon, but unfortunately it doesn't jump like its marine relatives, so you can only catch glimpses of it. And it's even more impossible to take a photo of it.

At night, we went in search of caimans. Unfortunately, we only managed to spot a single and agile, thus quickly disappearing, animal. In March/April, manatees can be seen here, they come exclusively after the first rain, devour everything in sight, and then remain practically invisible for a year.

But there is still plenty of other things to see. Monkeys, frogs, birds, sloths, snakes (yes, even an anaconda, although only 2-3 meters long, during the dry season you can also see specimens that are 5-7 meters long) and spiders. Strangely enough, mosquitoes are almost non-existent here. The guide provides the explanation. Due to the heavy rain, the water washes away various minerals and tannins, known from wine, from the ground, which then float in the lagoon and prevent mosquitoes from staying there.

In addition to boat trips and walks on land with rubber boots, I especially enjoyed swimming in the lagoon. The initial uneasy feeling, knowing what lives here, quickly gives way to a refreshing coolness and the feeling of being connected to nature in the here and now. The subsequent colorful sunset and the rich nighttime starry sky are simply beautiful away from civilization.

One day, we went - again a two-hour boat ride - to a community living in the Amazon. More precisely, a couple who tried to give us a little insight into the history and daily life. The Yuca bread is baked with a lot of effort once or twice a month and eaten with different side dishes at any time of day. The husband of the baker is one of the few shamans in the village and tells us that he needed 22 years for his training. The central key to spiritual development is Ayahuasca, a drink made from jungle vines and other specially prepared ingredients. One of the ingredients also contains DMT, the strongest hallucinogen in the world. In monthly meetings, the shamans and those who aspire to become shamans themselves drink the concoction, tell old stories and insights passed down only orally to preserve their own culture, and gradually fall into a trance. Then the upcoming problems of the community or individual people are examined and solutions, in whatever form, are found.

The ancient tradition of this drug in the Amazon (which sounds negative to us, while in this culture it is, as mentioned, the cornerstone, the wisest of all wisdom-giving means) has made its way into backpacker drug lists of 'things you have to try'. Meanwhile, there are tour packages where you can embark on such a personal journey of discovery through the most creative twists and turns of your brain under medical supervision. According to accounts, however, it is not always pleasant, as many people experience hours of vomiting and discomfort before the hallucination comes.

The shaman then let us simulate shooting poisonous arrows with an oversized blowgun and made our hands 'circulate' with a nettles-like plant. As a crowning finale, he freed me from negative energies through rustling leaves, singing, and his personal gift.