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Shangri-La in the Tsum Valley?

Naipablaak: 25.12.2018

The Tsum Valley, located in the central Himalayas approximately 120 km northwest of Kathmandu and bordering Tibet, is known as the "hidden valley" due to its secluded location among the 7,000 and 8,000 meter peaks that surround it. The valley was settled by people from Tibet several centuries ago and has remained largely untouched by modern development from Nepal, India, or neighboring China. The residents of the valley lead a mostly self-sufficient lifestyle, following Tibetan Buddhism and adhering to a commitment of non-violence towards both humans and animals.

The term "Shangri-La" describes a fictional place of peace and harmony in Tibetan mythology. It is often associated with the Tsum Valley due to the peaceful and traditional way of life of its inhabitants.

This, along with its location amidst the imposing mountains of the Himalayas, seemed very enticing. The valley has been open to tourists since 2011, but a special permit is still required to enter and visitors must be accompanied by a certified guide. Due to the absence of high mountain passes, we were able to explore this legendary valley with Antonia.

Upon arrival in the villages, we are warmly welcomed by our guide Yo and our porter Furba.
Upon arrival in the villages, we are warmly welcomed by our guide Yo and our porter Furba.

In the first few days, we hike through ripe millet fields on steep mountain slopes.
In the first few days, we hike through ripe millet fields on steep mountain slopes.

The encounters with the local Gurung people are impressive.
The encounters with the local Gurung people are impressive.

In Nepal, distances as the crow flies are relatively short by modern standards. This is advantageous in the event of a necessary helicopter rescue. However, on the ground, even a few kilometers of difficult terrain can mean a long, strenuous, and sometimes nerve-wracking journey. But it is precisely this difficult accessibility that leads to the desired deceleration and focus on the local events.

One day on a bus along winding roads, one day in a 4x4 on rough tracks, and a week on foot up the narrow valley of the Buri Gandaki river. It is only when you reach the entrance to the Tsum Valley and realize what seclusion truly means that you have arrived in Nepal mentally as well. Despite the lack of road access, the Tsum Valley is now connected to the rest of the world through the internet. However, this expensive luxury is currently reserved for lodge owners and hikers who can afford it.

04	Through the deep gorge of the Buri Gandaki, we trek towards the Tsum Valley for several days.
Through the deep gorge of the Buri Gandaki, we trek towards the Tsum Valley for several days.


05	After several days of hiking, crossing airy suspension bridges no longer fazes us, as long as there are no mule caravans coming towards us.
After several days of hiking, crossing airy suspension bridges no longer fazes us, as long as there are no mule caravans coming towards us.


06	We enjoy a rare bath in hot springs.
We enjoy a rare bath in hot springs.


07	All goods must be transported to higher villages on the backs of mules and people.
All goods must be transported to higher villages on the backs of mules and people.


The question remains whether we were able to show Antonia paradise before her first birthday. In many ways, and from our romantic point of view, this is true. Open-hearted people leading a climate-neutral existence in breathtaking scenery. However, it is also the reality that there is only very rudimentary medical care available and not everyone can afford the potentially life-saving helicopter flight. Many people send their children to schools in Kathmandu for a reason - sometimes at a very young age. Money must be earned, and the residents of the Tsum Valley take every opportunity to do so. This comes with negative consequences such as envy and competition. Cheap alcohol from China does not contribute to the mental and physical well-being of the people either. We met a family that had adopted a young girl after her mother was murdered due to a family feud.


First moments in the Tsum Valley.
First moments in the Tsum Valley.

The residents of the Tsum Valley have Tibetan origins.
The residents of the Tsum Valley have Tibetan origins.

Not only in the lower Tsum Valley, we frequently encounter stacked stone towers known as chortens. To maintain good karma, one must pass them in a clockwise direction.
Not only in the lower Tsum Valley, we frequently encounter stacked stone towers known as chortens. To maintain good karma, one must pass them in a clockwise direction.

11	Tibetan inscriptions adorn the stones on chortens.
Tibetan inscriptions adorn the stones on chortens.

The upper part of the Tsum Valley has a wide valley floor, allowing for more extensive agriculture and the cultivation of apples.
The upper part of the Tsum Valley has a wide valley floor, allowing for more extensive agriculture and the cultivation of apples.

The dimensions of the landscape are impressive.
The dimensions of the landscape are impressive.

The upper part of the high valley is supplied by yak caravans from Tibet rather than mules from the Nepalese side.
The upper part of the high valley is supplied by yak caravans from Tibet rather than mules from the Nepalese side.

At the end of the valley, at an altitude of 3,700 m, lies the Mu Gompa monastery.
At the end of the valley, at an altitude of 3,700 m, lies the Mu Gompa monastery.

At 7:00 AM, the morning prayer begins, and at exactly this time, the sun rises and shines through the entrance door.
At 7:00 AM, the morning prayer begins, and at exactly this time, the sun rises and shines through the entrance door.

After the morning prayer, the monks are happy to have an unusual guest.
After the morning prayer, the monks are happy to have an unusual guest.

Feeding troughs for the journey. The dung patties behind them are dried on the wall and used as fuel, as wood is scarce.
Feeding troughs for the journey. The dung patties behind them are dried on the wall and used as fuel, as wood is scarce.

Despite all of these unromantic realities, we had a paradise-like time in the Tsum Valley - for ourselves, and only we can judge that. Exploring this original and beautiful region as a young family, accompanied by a good friend, was a fantastic experience. Staying overnight in monasteries and observing the morning prayers of the nuns or monks was deeply impressive. The earthly comfort of the newly built accommodations also played a significant role in making us feel at ease. Nowhere is this more evident than in a region where living conditions can quickly and vehemently take their toll. And yes, only vegetarian meals are served. Except for dishes with tuna, which, packaged in cans, have traveled as long a distance as we have. The lodge owners meet the demand from us guests in a morally acceptable manner. To what extent this is in line with the conditions and habits of the special place we want to find here, everyone must decide for themselves. And thus, also the influence we leave behind in this remote valley.


Hannes and Matthias embark on a two-day hike to Ganesh Himal Base Camp. Along the way, they enjoy an unobstructed view of Manaslu (far right, 8,167 m).
Hannes and Matthias embark on a two-day hike to Ganesh Himal Base Camp. Along the way, they enjoy an unobstructed view of Manaslu (far right, 8,167 m).

The amphitheater of Ganesh Himal is not far away.
The amphitheater of Ganesh Himal is not far away.

As the elevation increases, the vegetation becomes lower and gentians (Gentiana depressa) begin to bloom.
As the elevation increases, the vegetation becomes lower and gentians (Gentiana depressa) begin to bloom.

Hannes
Hannes' and Matthias' high camp in Ganesh Himal at 4,200 m.

Surrounded by seven-thousanders.
Surrounded by seven-thousanders.

Up here, the wind surely carries the mantras of the prayer flags even further.
Up here, the wind surely carries the mantras of the prayer flags even further.

Forepeak of Ganesh I (7,422 m) in the evening sun.
Forepeak of Ganesh I (7,422 m) in the evening sun.

Hannes and Matthias spend the night at the Gompa Lungdang monastery during their ascent and descent.
Hannes and Matthias spend the night at the Gompa Lungdang monastery during their ascent and descent.

Household chores
Household chores.

Modern life is making its way into the Tsum Valley.
Modern life is making its way into the Tsum Valley.

A porter
A porter's load next to the adoptive child mentioned in the text.

Years of life shape faces.
Years of life shape faces.

After several days of descent, we cross the Buri Gandaki one last time and are curious about what awaits us in the coming days on our next stretch.
After several days of descent, we cross the Buri Gandaki one last time and are curious about what awaits us in the coming days on our next stretch.

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