Famagusta and the ghost town of Varósha/Varosia

Famagusta is a pretty town just a few kilometers from Salamis. The jealousy drama of Othello and Desdemona takes place in the so-called Othello Tower, actually a castle. Whether it is real or just a Shakespearean fantasy is not proven. The cityscape is dominated by the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque, a former Gothic cathedral.

Outside the city on the coast, things get bizarre. Varósha, a suburb of Famagusta inhabited by non-Muslims, became a sophisticated mass tourism destination in the 1960s and 1970s. It was home to around 40,000 residents as well as numerous luxury hotels and apartments. In 1973 the town generated over 50% of the island's tourism income. Celebrities like Sofia Loren vacationed there.

When the Turkish military occupied it in 1974, the place was declared a restricted military area. And he still is today. Part of the complex has now been opened for tours, otherwise only Turkish and UN soldiers have access. The result is that the place is still uninhabited and completely dilapidated today.

Overall, I find it oppressive how often we come across consequences of the 1974 war and the division of the country on our journey. The presence of Turkish and UN military personnel is enormous, and we repeatedly drive past barracks and restricted military areas. Apparently normal for the residents now, but very unusual for us. After the majority of Greek Cypriots voted against reunification in the 2004 referendum, no one seems to have a really good idea for solving the Cyprus question. After all, the nine border crossings have been open since 2003.

The landscape often appears quite desolate. With 320 sunny days a year, water is naturally a problem. This is imported in the north via pipelines from Turkey. In terms of agriculture we mainly see olive and pomegranate trees. Most everyday items come from Turkey or England and are correspondingly expensive. The prices are roughly at the German level. How anyone makes ends meet on a Northern Cypriot income is a mystery to me.