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Kathmandu – what do you do?

Diterbitkan: 03.12.2018


The originally independent cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur are now merging into a sea of buildings.
The originally independent cities of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur are now merging into a sea of buildings.

Back in Kathmandu. We have been in the Nepalese Himalayas for almost two months. On foot and with only the essentials on our backs. This included warm clothes and a satellite phone, but not a laptop. Two months, mostly without cell phone reception and internet connection. So, it's only now that we can finally report on our experiences of the past few weeks.

The contrast was immense when we flew from Armenia to Nepal at the end of September. A completely chaotic street scene - many times more people - many times more cars maneuvering through much narrower streets. At least the cars are much smaller and there are more people on foot. However, the enormous number of motorcycles constantly causes traffic noise, with incessant honking. The air is suffocating. Many of the roads are in bad condition, resulting in a constant cloud of dust hanging in the streets. The enormous number of exhaust pipes and the age of the engines in front of them contribute to the fact that one quickly realizes, without a doubt, that it is not good for one's lungs.

A vegetable seller who does not produce any dust, noise, or exhaust fumes, but has to endure them.
A vegetable seller who does not produce any dust, noise, or exhaust fumes, but has to endure them.

After a few days, we convinced ourselves that it was unfortunately necessary - at least at the end of September.
After a few days, we convinced ourselves that it was unfortunately necessary - at least at the end of September.

It was still pleasantly warm at the end of September.
Back then, it was still pleasantly warm.

We have to stay outside ...
We have to stay outside ...


The hustle and bustle, the lively life, the colorful people, and the improvisation that surrounds you in an unimaginable way can be overwhelming. For days, we walk through the city shaking our heads but with a wide grin on our faces. One million people live in Kathmandu. However, about 19,000 per km², while in Berlin, for example, there are 4,000 on the same area.

Bicycle rickshaws are ubiquitous in the old town.
Bicycle rickshaws are ubiquitous in the old town, ...


Motorcycles are the preferred means of transportation.
... but motorcycles are the preferred means of transportation.


Over the decades, a few cable strands have accumulated.
Over the decades, a few cable strands have accumulated.


In the days leading up to our departure from Kathmandu, we didn't have time to share our first impressions with you or say goodbye to you before heading to the mountains. Now we're back with constant power supply and WiFi, and we're excited to report on our impressions from Kathmandu and our experiences of the past few weeks. We will gradually introduce you to the stages of our long-distance hike and share this very eventful time with you.

It is worth mentioning that we were so glad when we could leave behind the chaos and dust of Kathmandu in early October, and we never thought that almost two months later, we would be just as happy to be back here - especially because of the comfort and milder temperatures that we could hardly wait for.

Colorful street scene in Kathmandu.
Colorful street scene in Kathmandu.


At the beginning of December, it gets around 10°C at night at 1,400 meters.
At the beginning of December, it gets around 10°C at night at 1,400 meters.


Something substantial needs to be cooked ...
Something substantial needs to be cooked ...


... with all the trimmings.
... with all the trimmings.


Fresh paint is needed in the country.
Fresh paint is needed in the country. Especially after 2015.


Shaking our heads with a big grin on our faces.
Shaking our heads with a big grin on our faces.


During the 60s and 70s, Freak Street (still called that today) was the meeting point for well-traveled hippies.
During the 60s and 70s, Freak Street was the meeting point for well-traveled hippies. Today, the glory is gone.


A courtyard that has aged.
A courtyard that has aged.


Naturally Nepal - once is not enough.
Naturally Nepal - once is not enough.


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