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#9 A 'Ups and Downs' on the west coast of Corsica

Objavljeno: 07.11.2018

From 03.11. (from 12 noon) to 08.11. / written on 08.11. around 4 pm (CET) offroad 2km north of Plage de Cupabia


You can find my tours on KOMOOT:

https://www.komoot.de/user/34760619975?ref=amk


I had described a lot of things in detail, just before going to bed on my smartphone, and now everything is gone :-/
Too bad Vakantio ... your 'draft function' is not so reliable.

So let's start again:

Since 31.10. all campgrounds are actually closed. Not only that, hardly any restaurant is still open, only in the cities something is going on everywhere else ... like swept away ... although the weather is currently fantastic: 20°C sun - not a cloud in the sky. No one cares that I'm standing by the side of the road with my bus. So far wonderfully relaxed, even though the search for a suitable place has cost me several liters of diesel and patience. So it's comfortable here :-) /Update: Even after more than 4 weeks on the island and mostly 'free standing', nothing has changed. Not a single complaint. The 'right weather' seems to be giving way to a more gentle one for about 10 days now. I am happy to accept that. It's time to write down some information.


Hiking Trails 

I find the GR20, the Mare a Mare and the Mare e Monti to be very successful. The hiking trails here are all very challenging and can only be ridden with mountain bikes with restrictions. It requires a secure driving technique with trial skills, otherwise you won't have any 'fun' (see conclusion). The trails are signposted throughout, but unfortunately little maintenance is done, so you have to be prepared for all kinds of obstacles and choose shorter tours so as not to arrive completely exhausted at your destination.

Mountain Bike Routes

There are a few designated mountain bike routes, which are exclusively forest tracks ... there's not much more to say.

Shopping 

In almost every village there is a Spar or similar supermarket, you can also find privately owned shops and everything you need is available. Prices are about 15-40% higher. They are also open on Sundays, which is very convenient.

Going Out to Eat

Is it possible? Where? You can find something in the cities, but as soon as you are a bit outside, almost nothing. So far, the quality and quantity have been disappointing and about 20-50% more expensive.

Refueling

There are plenty of petrol stations with payment terminals 24/7, prices range from 1.55-1.68€/L diesel.

The Locals

I have had only positive experiences so far. The Corsicans just do their own thing! Very helpful and friendly. They make a somewhat 'quirky', 'rural', 'slightly unkempt', 'honest and direct' as well as 'humble' impression on me. Since there is only a holiday season on Corsica between May and September, they are mostly among themselves for the rest of the year. It is understandable that the many camper vans in summer put a strain on the locals' nerves and why there are many 'Camping interdite' signs. However, everyone should make their own experiences...!

Traffic

The roads are more or less good to drive on, although I would prefer the larger main roads. The smaller roads are SEVERELY curvy and an average speed of about 40km/h is realistic. It's quite tedious here. Be prepared for some potholes. The 'Corsicans' drive quite passionately ... and no one here knows about keeping a safe distance - so always stay relaxed.

Bike Rental / Guided Tours

There are hardly any offers for MTB tours and mountain bikes. In the tourist resorts you can rent 'standard bikes'. At the Col de Bavella in Zonza there is a bike station with decent looking bikes from a distance. There is also a small bike park with shuttle service.

Campgrounds

Quite good, maybe a bit neglected and with about +/-15€/night including camping van, electricity for one person. The season ends between 30.09. and 31.10. depending on the provider.

Private Property

I had heard a few times before the start of the vacation that there is a lot of private property on the island and that hiking trails etc. lead over it and that you can have problems. I can't confirm that! It was never the case, the hiking trails always led past it and all the Corsican farmers were relaxed and friendly when asked. So no comparison to Mallorca, where I couldn't do a single tour without crossing private property several times.

Police

Last week I was parked on the mountain road between Corte and Porto on the side in the green. The patrol car that passed by said 'I should go to a campground. Camping in nature is forbidden'. At least many places were still open ;-)

Trash

There is hardly any litter lying around, the hiking trails, roads and villages are very clean. In each village there is a central place where you can dispose of your trash (I'm not sure if this only applies to residents). I think this is very well done.


Photos this time unsorted. If you start here, it's your own fault in Ajaccio-Trottel:





















Forest tunnel :-) One of the few great sections


Beware: attacking plant incoming!


The flow was gone again, and the path was gone too.



Here are a few prime examples of 'excellent' hiking trails. Start of the trail, there are many provisional barriers with pallets or whatever is lying around here:

There is always a challenge waiting for the curious nature lover:



Classics, there's hardly a tour without these defiant thorns - painful contact guaranteed. They like to hang exactly in the way ... tzt tzt

After the rain of the last days, wet feet are more frequent:

Supply planes of the army, you can also see and hear jets more often. They probably quickly get fresh baguettes from Paris in the morning.

There is a red sign on the gate 'Entering private property prohibited', such signs are more common, BUT usually the hiking trails pass by them ... so no problem!


To add some variety, there was a 'sweet treat' at the end of the tour, balm for the soul and a relief from the disappointments of the past weeks.



Short Conclusion and Straight Talk:

I can't recommend any of the tours I have already driven! Each tour had shorter or longer sections which, in my opinion, are absolute no-go's for a successful MTB ride. / Update: hardly changed after more than 4 weeks. There are fantastic sections, but an uninterrupted tour is almost impossible. The area around the Col de Bavella is recommended. You can spend almost a week here. There are occasionally fantastic sections, but they were mostly very short. Almost every tour left a feeling of dissatisfaction: so much pedaling, carrying, sweating, suffering, scratched and stung ... and then the way down is simply rubbish - BUT excellent! No, thanks! Corsica = Anti-Flow-Island! Those who know me know that I don't mind at all, I'm even attracted to riding paths that are weathered ... but this isn't fun. Road biking, on the other hand, is quite good - similar to Mallorca. For hiking?! ... yes, the three major routes are great...! Camping, beach vacation and hanging out a bit and hiking along the coast... it's probably nice, but that's not why I'm here. To conclude: It's a journey, not a vacation! That's why Corsica is worth a visit and I don't regret it :-)

That's it ... I'll try a few more tours ... see you later!
Odgovor

Francuska
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