Torres del Paine

The Torres del Paine National Park is one of the most famous national parks on the continent of South America. So on Ascension Day 2019 we sat in front of the computer and booked the campsites for Torres del Paine. At this point in time, we didn't know whether this highlight would fit into our travel plan - but it fit perfectly.

Day 1: Since we only found out two days before when we wanted to buy our national park tickets that certain hiking trails can only be walked in one direction, we had to change our planned hike for the first day. We had originally planned to hike along a lake to the first campsite, which was now shortened by a (not free - rip-off) catamaran for us. So we took the same bus as Franziska (Carla's mother, who took a day trip to Torres del Paine on her last day in Patagonia) and drove to the dock by the lake. Since we had over five hours, we left our backpacks on the bus and only hiked with the essentials to a waterfall and a viewpoint. In retrospect, it was a good thing to see this part of the national park as well, but at the time we were terribly annoyed that a trail was practically blocked and you had to buy an expensive boat trip.

Arriving at the campsite, we were able to set up our tent anywhere. We found a reasonably flat spot and securely anchored our portable home in the ground for the next six nights. The gusts of wind were already swirling strongly across the site. During dinner (Menu 2: mashed potatoes with sausages), we amused ourselves by watching certain hikers who could hardly walk anymore and hoped that we would feel better after these days.

Day 2: Today we set off early. Our goal was the Grey Glacier at the end of the valley. The trail took us through burnt bushland, with bizarre white tree skeletons standing out. Several years ago, a hiker set his toilet paper on fire between the bushes, which led to a devastating fire. The wind carried the fire down the entire valley, causing many hectares of nature to die in a very short time.

After a short, intense Patagonian rain shower (the only one where we put on our rain ponchos), deep blue ice floes suddenly appeared on the Laguna Grey. The large chunks of ice shone in such an intense blue that they looked like they had been painted into the picture. Since we had already been able to marvel at the much larger Perito Moreno Glacier, the Grey Glacier didn't fascinate us as much anymore. Instead, we were enchanted by the icebergs floating in the water in the most different shapes and colors in front of the glacier.

Back at the campsite, we treated ourselves to a shower and sat in the common room. We started talking to others and exchanged stories. Oh yes, today was Menu 1 on the plan. Exactly, pasta with tomato sauce.

Day 3: After a windy night, we packed all our things back into our backpacks and set off on the next part of the W-Trek. With all the food and equipment, the backpacks were loaded heavily and at the beginning we struggled with an uphill climb. After that, it got easier and we reached a small campsite ahead of schedule, where we could leave our things and only hike through the Frances Valley with the essentials. We quickly reached the first viewpoint and were euphoric because we were over an hour faster than estimated. Unfortunately, we soon realized that the estimated times couldn't be correct at all, because we took more than twice as long to reach the actual destination. At the top, it was beautiful anyway after salami and M&Ms. We had a magnificent view of a valley with mighty rock walls and a green valley that ended in a milky blue lake. This mountain landscape reminded us strongly of Switzerland, but the glacier-formed lake with its many small islands rather resembled a lake in Sweden or the sea in Croatia, simply very beautiful.

Back down, we only had to hike for half an hour with our backpacks to our campsite. There we were assigned a platform on the steep slope. Actually pretty cool, a sleeping spot with a view. But have you ever set up a tent on a wooden floor? We could forget about the tent pegs. So we improvised with a tent cord that we had brought with us and tried to securely anchor our tent against the wind. This was the first time we realized that only a few people carry their own tent. There were only about 10 places for their own tents, all other platforms had rental tents (anchored with wood screws).

Day 4: We were a little scared of this day. It was by far the longest distance and the most altitude we had to cover with the heavy backpacks. But we took enough time and hiked comfortably through the alternating nature. In the early afternoon, we arrived at Camping Chileno and immediately experienced the first surprise. There was an absolute ban on fires. There was also no cooking tent or anything similar, they could only offer hot water or the restaurant (yes, yes, rip-off). Since we only had rice or pasta left, we decided to simply ask the cook in the kitchen if he could put our pot of pasta on his stove. It worked wonderfully for us, but later in the evening it was no longer possible, there was too much going on. But we were full and already slipped into our tent when some hikers arrived visibly tired at the campsite. Our tent was also located on a platform in the steep forest, but at least this time we got nails and a hammer as well.

Day 5: We kept saying that the Torres del Paine National Park with its famous rock formations was our main goal in Patagonia. So we didn't let it stop us from at least attempting to see the sunrise at Torres del Paine. We set off at 3:20 am with the light of our headlamps and climbed through challenging scree terrain higher and higher. Again and again, we had to climb up a few meters of the steep path in a stream, as the water temporarily flowed exactly through this path. When we left the rocky terrain behind us and were almost at the top, a large grey fox greeted us good morning.

Sweaty, we changed our clothes when we reached the mountain lake and looked for a suitable spot for the best photo. Wrapped up warmly, we waited (there were already some people up here, when did they get up?) for the sun. It got brighter and brighter and the sun was already tickling the horizon a bit, but unfortunately the clouds also moved in, so the perfect spectacle remained hidden from us. But a sky without a cloud is boring anyway, and so it was even better with clouds than we had dreamed for a long time. And it got even better. Since we had enough warm clothes with us, we survived all the frozen early risers by now and had the three rock formations all to ourselves for a while. As compensation for the unpleasant hiking days in Peru, the biggest clouds also disappeared and rewarded us with an unforgettable view. How beautiful!

Descending again through the stream bed, we fortified ourselves with breakfast, packed up the tent, and observed the day tourists slowly coming up from below. On the way down into the valley, we placed bets on whether the white sneakers would still be white at the end of the day, whether canvas shoes are waterproof, whether the plastic down jacket was the right choice with a backpack on the back and! the front impeding the view of the scree, and whether the sweaty, red face at the top would dry in the cool wind, or whether we would have to turn back earlier...

We made it back down to the plain where the W-Trek actually ends. But we wouldn't be us if we hadn't planned an additional loop. So we set up our tent again and enjoyed Menu 3 for the first time: rice with meat and vegetables from a bag.

Day 6: The night was bitterly cold. The wind and the valley acted like a refrigerator and made us shiver heavily throughout the night. So we set off to the last camping spot, Seron, with little motivation. We hiked through a forest and a plain full of daisies. Really full. Huge meadows full of white flowers. Phew...we didn't make any progress. She loves me, she loves me not, she loves me...

We arrived at Camp Seron in the early afternoon and relaxed in the sun. Another round of Menu 3 and off to bed.

Day 7: Unfortunately, Carla had been suffering from a strange stomachache for several days, which kept her tied to the toilet. Now it was enough and we longed for a real bed. Like on the first day, this path back to the main entrance was also one-way, but we didn't let ourselves be forbidden everything (also because it wasn't listed on the internet during our planning). We crossed the flower meadows again, climbed a steep slope and a forest, and then arrived exhausted but proud and happy at the visitor center.

The hike through Torres del Paine was a major goal for us in Patagonia, and with some distance from the hardships, we are overjoyed to have experienced it. Never before have we experienced so much different nature in such a short time, which is simply unique. Two days less would probably have been enough. But aren't these special adventures often the ones that stay in our memories the most?