Objavljeno: 08.11.2018
There are always new facets to discover in this city. Last night I visited a Peruvian restaurant. There are several of them on San Antonio Street, just around the corner. It seems to be very popular here, similar to Balkan grill in Germany: delicious grilled dishes and large portions at reasonable prices. I will probably need this Peruvian superpower today. But let's start from the beginning: All good things come in threes, so of course I also visited Pablo Neruda's beautiful house here in the capital. It is located in the Bellavista neighborhood, and the name of this neighborhood only becomes clear after climbing Cerro San Cristóbal, which I did after the visit. The house itself is very nicely furnished, but with less nautical stuff compared to the others. Actually, the house was the love nest for Matilde, who later became his third wife. A wonderful inner courtyard, again on a hillside, and various stairs connect the different parts of the building. There is also a beautiful view of the Cordillera (Andes) and where this is not possible, a fake window with an oil painting depicting the coastal Cordillera. He was quite mischievous. There was also a kind of secret cabinet through which the master used to enter the dining room - often disguised. When the master was tired, he would retreat through this door for a nap. A long table for 14 people provided space for his friends. Of course, there is also a great bar, where I was particularly fascinated by the oversized men's shoes. Bistro tables were from Paris, where Neruda was consul for a while. There are also photos showing how bad the house looked after the storm caused by the military and other mob during the coup in 1973. The house was looted, many things were demolished, stolen and even flooded. After Neruda's death, Matilde decided tirelessly to restore as much as possible and replace stolen objects. Outside, after the visit, a woman handed me a copy of one of his love poems. Why? Experience has shown that skepticism is always appropriate when someone approaches you on the street. Ultimately, these involuntary conversations always follow 2 phases and have 1 goal: 1. a story, personal contact, and only then comes the purpose or reason for collecting or begging. Nevertheless, this time it was a quite nice conversation, the person was somehow charming without being silly, although I didn't find the purpose consistent. I only read the poem on the small piece of paper later, when I had already climbed half the mountain (more like a hill!). 'Porque al sentirme solo, pienso en ti.' (When I am lonely, I think of you. I remember you, like spring with joy).' Mariposa de mis flores de mil colores... (Butterfly of my flowers with a thousand colors...' Beautiful, right? The poem is called Mi Jardin (My Garden). Why climb a mountain in this heat (28°C with 7% humidity). I wanted to go up with the funicular (cable car), but it was broken. The offered bus was not an option for me, that was clear. I had water with me. Furthermore, the view and the area become clearer and better with each step of the ascent, which is a special pleasure for me. And a little exercise never hurts - the circulation needs to get going. I could later see the salt stains on my T-shirt, showing how much I had sweated. The view was really worth it. Cerro San Cristóbal cannot be compared to Santa Lucia - Bellavista! It is about 300m higher and offers an even more fantastic 270° view of the metropolis and the mountains. The peak itself is a Marian shrine with a large statue. To make sure everything is dignified here, various signs are displayed and silence is requested. Religious singing everywhere from loudspeakers. Initially, this creates a spiritual atmosphere, but soon it becomes annoying.
On the way, I had made a vow to quickly replenish the fluid loss in the valley. The Bellavista district is advertised on signs as 'Barrio de cultura y bohemian'. Ah, the artists of life are here. That's why Pablo and Matilde had a house here.
For me, it was a reggae bar with a kind of beer garden. And I treated myself to a liter bottle of cold Cervezas. With it, an Empanada con Queso y carne'. The spirits of life were pleasantly restored and it was a beautiful day!