Day 19: Rain

My accommodation in Dömitz, the 'Alte Brauerei', is a real private accommodation. On the second floor there are 3 rooms furnished for cyclists and other guests: shared bathroom, hallway and kitchen. I am the only guest, otherwise I probably wouldn't have done it. At my age, you value comfort a bit more (okay, there are many exceptions...). The hostess wants to see me for the settlement, but she has to go to physiotherapy. Breakfast is ready.

I still have to call the hotline, the AVC is acting up again. Then I will start driving. It's dry. But not for long. So I take out my rain gear and continue. I'm a bit confused following the sign 'Elberadweg', even though komoot doesn't want that. There's just a left side and a right side Elberadweg... So I continue on the right side, maybe the weather is better 'in the west'. No, it's not.

The Elbe used to be the inner German border, with 'protective strips' and 'restricted zones' on the eastern side. Later I pass a monument with a border tower that reminds of the time of division. I overhear a father trying to explain that to his son. I think the east is nicer. The first ferry, where I want to cross at Hitzacker - a picturesque place, surely nice when it's not raining - is not running due to low water. 15 km further at Neu Derchau I cross again. Due to the dike relocation, the landscape on the eastern side is much more calming for the eye, between the water and the dike there is meadow with animals - I see storks, follow intently two kites that are just ahead of me and stay quite close to me. Swallows perform aerial acrobatics, fly under the crown of the dike at breakneck speed, rise up and let the wind throw them back again. It's good that there's no collision.

I need to take a break, after about 40 km it would be appropriate. But no shelter on the dam, no covered rest area. Then I find one, lovingly equipped with photos and porcelain or stone figures. I sit down, eat and drink and close my eyes for a bit. Another cyclist arrives, I startle awake. No, it's not raining right now, he just wants to have a look. We start talking. He has the tent with him and stays 'wild', occasionally he also takes a room. He complains about the lack of understanding of some citizens who want to kick him out in the middle of the night, even though they can see that he is a cyclist and not a bum...

That's how I get to Boizenburg, where I could stay overnight. It doesn't look really inviting, it's not raining right now, it's another 11 km to Lauenburg. I'll go there. Not a good idea, shortly afterwards the rain returns, it's pouring. In a bus shelter I book accommodation, where I arrive soaking wet after a total of 80 km. But that means I'll be in Hamburg tomorrow with an additional day off. I urgently need to go shopping...