The great bike tour day 4: Picture-book Germany on the Romantic Road

Once again, I am the only guest having breakfast here today at Gasthof Holdermühle, together with the young host and his pregnant wife. She tells me that her parents are hiking to Rome from here, in many stages over several years. Seems to be a bit of a trend.

Well fortified, I set off in the mist of the river lowlands. After a little over an hour, I arrive in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, park my fully loaded bike outside the city walls, and embark on a tourist tour. The old town is really nice with its half-timbered houses and narrow alleyways. A "picture-perfect" bubble, similar to the old town of Bergamo. Since I'm already carrying too much stuff with me, there's no danger of me buying any tourist kitsch, even though there are some very nice things for sale.

After Schillingsfürst, the next slightly larger town on the Romantic Road bike path, there are still about 20 km to go. The last 5 km are terrible. Where did this headwind suddenly come from? And why is this f... town so high up? And anyway, what kind of stupid town name is Schillingsfürst? Totally frustrated and exhausted, I arrive at the village square. Fortunately, at least the bakery is open, the Edeka and everything else is closed. I treat myself to a large cappuccino, a sandwich roll, and the Ritter-Sport coconut chocolate melted in France that no one wanted to eat in Austria and that I still have with me.

At first, I thought I misunderstood, but no, Komoot insists that I have to go up to this stupid castle, fortress, whatever. The steep cobblestone street overwhelms me, I have to push my bike and curse all the junk I'm carrying around. About 50 meters higher up, I'm sweaty and annoyed, glad that I can leave this place.

The following route flies by, I rush through the villages at high speed, devouring kilometers with joy. Just before Feuchtwangen, I meet 6 older gentlemen from Husum, a very pleasant encounter. They are cycling from Garmisch back home.

In Dinkeslbühl, I buy a few groceries in a supermarket, you never know. As I leave the store, it starts raining. I quickly stow away my provisions and ride on, only 6 km to Mönchsroth. But that's enough to completely soak me and let me freeze, despite my rain jacket. Like a baptized mouse, I arrive at the Landgasthof Felsenkeller. The fit, blond beauty who opens the door tells me to take a shower and change into something dry before checking in. And that the restaurant is unfortunately closed today due to a lack of staff caused by corona, but there is a small communal kitchen that I can use. Fine, that's more than enough for me, in foresight I had bought something in the supermarket in dinkelsbühl. And with this lousy weather, an indoor kitchen is a great luxury, luckily I don't have to camp tonight.

https://www.komoot.de/tour/749549603?ref=itd

Landgasthof Felsenkeller, €37 with Wi-Fi, showers according to Greek standard, well-equipped communal kitchen, and rooms with GDR flair.