3. My first pilgrimage day to Guillena

Yesterday I overheard someone saying they had to wake up at 4 a.m. for an early flight, and that’s exactly when I woke up for the first time. I had some time left and stayed in bed until 5:45. Then I quietly packed my things and took them out of the room. I would have liked to stay in bed longer, but the Camino is waiting for me. Shortly after 6, I stepped out into the dark and, of course, had packed my headlamp in the backpack. At the beginning, I didn’t need it, but later, after the highway, it was quite helpful. The ground was wet; it seems it had rained overnight, and currently, it was just drizzling a bit. Equipped with my rain poncho, rain cover for the backpack, and plastic bag for my valuables, I set off, knowing I had to head to the Isabella bridge first. Otherwise, I wouldn’t have found my way at all. From the bridge, there were some arrows here and there, but without the app, I would have certainly gotten lost a few times. So I walked out of the city along a highway and then through a few towns. The rain got heavier, and I found myself pondering again why I wasn’t lying somewhere on a beach sipping a cocktail but instead was hiking in winter and calling it a vacation. The rain was quite annoying, which is why I took a break at the next café. Here, I warmed up and enjoyed the dryness. My rain cape wasn’t as waterproof as I had thought, as it was already soaked in many places. At least the rain cover for my backpack had stayed dry so far. After a half-hour break, I stepped out, and the rain had stopped, with daylight coming in. This lifted my spirits, and I continued on my way. The path leads past an amphitheater, which I took a quick look at. I arrived in Itálica at 8:50, and it opens at 9. So I waited 10 minutes and checked out the amphitheater. There were hot springs and other things to see, but I didn’t want to take too long a break since it was finally not raining. But a little culture is still a must. Then I headed out of town along a highway, which is a bit dangerous, especially when you have to change sides on a fast road. After surviving that, I ended up on a wide gravel track. Then I met a dog that looked like a horse from a distance. Then the rain started to increase more and more and became stronger. The path was supposed to lead over a bridge that was closed, and at that moment, a large herd of oxen came towards me, which seemed more scared of me than I of them. The farmers told me I could cross the bridge. At least that’s how I understood it, and I managed to survive it after all. Then I encountered a few donkeys. The rain had become very strong by then, and it was getting really unpleasant, as there was also thunder and lightning. There was no possibility to take shelter along this entire stretch. Everything was wet by now, and the path was becoming increasingly muddy and impassable. It was a continuous slip and slide, but everything worked out, and I arrived in Guillena. I wanted to keep going, but it wasn’t possible in this weather.

So I headed to the accommodation La Luz de Albergue. Nobody was there, but after a phone call, the owner arrived a minute later. The night costs €14, a single room would have cost €16. I’m now in a 6-bed room. Let’s see how many others come. On the way, I met two cyclists who are also at the albergue. I chatted a bit with them. They are both from America. Then I was really looking forward to a warm shower. And it felt really good. The price includes a small breakfast, meaning coffee, tea, toast, and muffins. And the great thing is that you can make it for yourself at any time.

Now I’m lying in bed listening to the heavy rain and thunder, and I’m really glad I didn’t keep going. The weather is supposed to stay the same, but I won’t be discouraged. Now I have plenty of time, and I’ll probably spend most of it in bed. If the rain stops, I’ll briefly go to the supermarket or a restaurant, but for now, I’ll rest a bit in bed...