Rain, towers, gravel roads, and a fortress

Yesterday and today were full of events. Started after breakfast, I, as so often in pouring rain, then contrary to my plan in the direction of Ushguli. After a few kilometers, an all-wheel driver from Dresden approached me. He tried to talk to me in English 😅 until I made it clear to him that it might work better in German. The road was still closed or destroyed. Where the road should be, there is currently a house-sized boulder. Very bad, I would have liked to see the village. It is known for its many towers. 30 in total. These are defense towers in which the residents took refuge when they were attacked by neighboring villages, they were also used as shelters in natural disasters. No tower is said to have collapsed during earthquakes.

So turning around and returning to Kutaisi. Due to the overnight rain, there were again many rockfalls. You had to be very careful. Dogs also stormed the road again and again, barking and running a bit with you, I almost think they enjoy it. At a rest area, a huge dog ran towards me, a shepherd, whom I had not noticed before, drove the dog away with his stick, if he hadn't been there, my pepper spray would probably have been used for the first time. I also now know why almost everyone in the countryside is seen with a stick.

Arriving in Kutaisi, the question arose of how to proceed. I decided on Akhaltsikhe, where there should be a worth seeing fortress and an affordable hotel. It was also only 120 kilometers away and it was already 2:00 p.m., so it was doable.

We went through fantastic landscapes, always higher and higher, a huge driving pleasure, an uninhabited area, only occasionally did a car come towards you. But suddenly, what is that? 5-6 large hotel complexes, luxury accommodations, with corresponding clientele. According to the license plates of the cars, many Russians and Turks as well as Asians. Asians are just great, you can recognize them from afar because they constantly have their cell phone in front of their faces to film.

The journey continued, oh dear, a sign, 'road closed' and gravel and still about 86 km to drive. Turn around, go all the way back? No option! "I have to go through now," I told myself. It went quite well, after a few kilometers, there were a few boulders on the road, safe to handle for 2-3 men, easy to bypass with the motorcycle. A few kilometers further, a local car with two passengers approached me, the driver spoke a little German and let me know that the road was free in the further course. Ok, then nothing can go wrong anymore. Gravel, rocks, and muddy passages alternated, the next car, a German one, also confirmed to me that it would be difficult (even more difficult?), but drivable. There was a Czech BMW with a passenger behind him, it might only get difficult with time, as there was still a very long stretch to drive, it was already 4:00 p.m. and still over 50 km to drive, but if a BMW can do it, then I can do it even more!!

After a few kilometers, the two arrived with a BMW GS at a brisk walking pace. For them, it will probably get really tight, over time.

There were passages where you could drive a bit faster, dry packed clay, then mud, gravel, deep, very deep washouts, rocky ground. A lively mix that constantly posed new challenges. The tree line came, snowfields partly lined the way, and then I entered the clouds. Very little visibility, much wind swept over the mountain ridge and drove the clouds above it. Since you look far ahead when off-road driving in order to recognize obstacles in good time and to fix alternative routes, it became even more demanding, with only 10 meters of visibility.

This was also mastered, after leaving the mountain ridge and the pass summit, it quickly became sunny again and the descent began. Here again loose gravel, clay with many deep washouts. Actually a route I didn't want to drive alone. But the motorcycle did a good job, no comparison to the previous machines. Berta is a force! For me, the ideal motorcycle for such routes.

About 20 kilometers before the destination, civilization caught up with me again, in the form of a construction site. But the compacted gravel was very easy to drive on.

By 7:00 p.m., I had reached my hotel. An exhausting but very beautiful day came to an end.

Today is almost a free day for driving.

This morning I started walking to look for an ATM, according to Google Maps, the nearest one should be in the courtyard of the fortress. But apparently, it hasn't been there for a long time. An elderly gentleman had noticed me because he didn't speak English, he gestured for me to come with him. In the tourist office, which was located in the courtyard of the fortress, it was translated. Outside again, he tried to explain to me where the nearest ATM was, which of course was very difficult. He pulled me to his car, a taxi, drove me to the nearest bank where I could withdraw money, and drove me back to the fortress. When I wanted to pay him, he waved it off, shook my hand, and disappeared. This is how hospitable they are here, unfortunately, it is a rare experience these days. And addressing the doubters, he was very trustworthy and quite well-known here, as everyone greeted him.

However, I rode my motorcycle into town again because I needed to run some errands and exchange Georgian lari into euros for my ferry ride on Monday. No luck at the first bank, they apparently exchange money but didn't accept my passport because my name is written with an umlaut, I argued that it was an internationally valid travel document. No chance. However, the bank employee gave me to understand that a few meters further there is the Georgian National Bank, where they would exchange the money. And that's exactly what happened. On the way there, I met Max, a young German who was traveling the country with his Yamaha T7.

In the afternoon, I visited the fortress. A really great object, lovingly restored with several cafes and restaurants, and every area could be entered. Just great.

Tomorrow, I will continue to Batumi, where I will explore the city for three days before taking the ferry to Bulgaria.

I don't know yet how the way there will be. Google tells me 6.5 hours for 186 km. That promises to be interesting.