Varvara - Şiran - Bayramlı

On Tuesday, August 6, 2019, it's time to leave the beloved spot near the Mingachevir reservoir. After a final tea at the beach bar, I set off south with my Dicken. I also stop at Nico's coffee bar for a hot drink and say goodbye. Then we go across Mingachevir and through extensive reed fields, along a kind of dam. South of the city, there is a floodplain or swamp area that seemingly gets its water from the Kura River. After about 9 km, we take a break at a small body of water before continuing our hike. Around half past four and after walking about 17 kilometers, we reach a dam of the Kura River and on its southern side is the village of Varvara. At a military post, I am given some drinking water and the first villagers we encounter invite me for a tea. I chat a bit with the elderly men, replenish my water reserves for the night, and then start looking for a suitable camping spot. Not far from the dam, I find a place on the shore of the Kura River, set up the tent, and am already surrounded by some children during the process. I rinse my clothes and wash myself in the river before preparing my dinner. Then the boys are collected by an older villager and I enjoy the evening tranquility at the tent. It is already dark when I get another visit. Two brothers come with their father and mother to visit me. We have tea and honeydew melon as a bedtime snack and chat a bit.

On Wednesday morning, the night's rest is over around half past seven as the two boys are back and practically throw me out of bed. Their parents have given them a small lunch package for me. I find bread, vegetables, and eggs in it. After breakfast, with the very helpful assistance of the two boys, I pack up my things. It's around nine o'clock when we start and cross the village of Varvara. Apparently, all rather simple farmsteads with rather poor rural population. There are some livestock (cows, geese, chickens, sheep) here and there on the streets, but cars are hardly visible. After leaving the village, we walk along reed fields and meadows. Shortly before half past ten, we reach the village of Cırdahan, which leaves a similar impression as Varvara. Then we pass an airfield and head to Yevlax. Here, just after entering the town, I take a little break, as we have already walked 10 km. Then I inquire about trains to the east at the train station. The staff recommend a bus ride from the bus station about 2.5 km away for cost reasons. I have the feeling that they want to outsource the dog problem. Since the next train doesn't leave until the evening anyway, I decide to give it a try. On the way there, I take a break in front of a café where there is no coffee. The boss helps out and quickly organizes a hot drink for me. I can't really relax as we are surrounded by onlookers and occasionally questioned. Then we continue along the main road to Avtovakzal. Upon arrival, I leave Dicken and my backpack in the cool, empty waiting hall. I join Rango for a while before inquiring about buses. The first bus driver rejects my request. I am told to try hitchhiking directly on the roadside. Here, I am promptly besieged by some taxi drivers but can board a marschrutka shortly afterwards. I am assigned two seats on the back seat for my backpack, Rango, and me. During the journey, I start talking to Ulfat. He invites me to his parents' house in Baku, asks about opportunities to work in Germany, and treats me to a tea during a short break near Kürdəmir. At the southern end of the city of Hacıqabul, I get off with Dicken and walk a bit further south. At the northern end of Şirvan, I find water at a small collection of houses and then set up my tent on the bank of a dried-up lake.

After dozing a bit longer on Thursday morning due to drizzling rain, I finally pack my things around eleven o'clock and walk to Şirvan. Right after the start, there is a small detour, a rather large farm dog and a few smaller yappers clearly show us that our presence near them is not welcome. In the end, I don't trust the young resident who tries to hold back the alpha male. Then we continue along the planned route, and after 5 km, I take my first break at Heydər Əliyev Prospekti. I get some sweets in a market and am invited for a hot drink in the neighboring tea house. After 20 minutes, we walk about 3 km again before I stop at a small snack bar with WiFi. I want to upload some pictures and have decided to spend the night in the area again. So there's no need to rush. After a few hours, I organize some food in the village and then head to the southwestern end of the town. I find a spot to camp on the banks of the Kura River and set up my camp. I am quickly spotted by children from the nearby village of Bayramlı and curiously observed. They keep me company, and some parents also show up. I am treated to tea and grapes and invited to stay overnight several times. Since the tent is already set up, I politely decline. After nightfall, tranquility slowly returns, and I can retreat under the tarp.