Mountains Pădurea Craiului

On Saturday morning (12.08.2017) my first way leads me the good 2km back to Şuncuiuş. In the evening, refilling my cash reserves at the local ATM was unfortunately not possible due to a power outage, but I am more lucky on my second attempt. Back in liquid assets, I return to the camp, for which I spontaneously choose a different way back. I unfortunately could not find the announced karst cave, but instead I struggle for about an hour and a half over a quite high mountain ridge. Back at the tent, I first need a little refreshment before I pack up our things and set off for Peştera Moanei around noon. In light of Rango's temporary paralysis, he is allowed to walk without his backpack, which increases the size of my marching luggage even more. Our path leads us along a small mountain stream towards the south. We steadily climb up and after an hour and a half and almost 5 kilometers, we reach the karst cave. I put down our luggage, leave Rango to guard it, and take a look at the cave formed by water. Back outside, I start a small wood fire and prepare a late lunch. The density of gas stations in the area is not particularly high, so since my stay in the cave, I have mostly switched to that as my fuel. After a good 2 hours of break, we continue along the stream for another 30 minutes before I refill my 2.5l water reserve and leave the valley. We mainly climb up the bare slopes, which open up the view of the surrounding landscape. The mountain range I am heading to is called Munții Pădurea Craiului and is part of the Apuseni Mountains (northern section of the Western Romanian Carpathians). On the way, I have to overcome one or two electric fences. I could test the voltage of one right away. In retrospect, the attempt to overcome it was rather clumsy and an unpleasant experience. After about an hour of ascent, during which I occasionally take a blackberry break in a beautiful environment, I have reached the ridge. Our destination for the day, the village Damiş, must be within reach. The weather is slowly changing and it starts to drizzle about 2km before the village. As the precipitation gets stronger, I decide to set up our accommodation in the middle of a small collection of old oaks on a hill. A good decision! After a quick setup, I can use the heavy rain as a shower in the evening. Even the sweaty clothes are thoroughly rinsed overnight.

The next morning begins foggy and gloomy, so I take it easy. After a hearty breakfast, I sharpen my hiking pole, which has proven to be an additional support when going downhill. It now also provides a significantly increased sense of security. Along my detour from the previous morning, I passed some information boards about the flora and fauna of the surrounding forests. They suggested that I was slowly entering areas that are home to specimens of Canis lupus as well as Ursus arctos. Sometimes, feelings prevail over reason... Around noon, the weather slowly clears up and I head down to Damiş. At an ABC (most likely comparable to a small convenience store), I treat myself to a Radler and stock up on some dry food for Rango. At a water tap, I refill our water reserves (rather cloudy broth coming out) and set off on the other side of the village to start the ascent. According to a local resident, there are still two mountain ridges to overcome until Remeți, my next destination. After about two hours, I have conquered the first of the two and can exchange the water from Damiş for clear mountain water. After a short break with a chocolate bar for strength, we walk along the Părâul Brătcuța upstream. We regularly pass small streams that are not marked on the map, so I free myself from the two and a half kilos of water reserve before the next ascent. During the ascent to the second ridge, we meet a Romanian who accompanies us for a while. Unfortunately, I have no good network connection, so my translation app cannot help. However, our Romanian companion continues to have a conversation, undeterred by the language barrier. He seems to believe that I will eventually understand him if he repeats his words clearly and often enough. I respond politely in German, and so the next kilometers pass in a very enjoyable atmosphere. We say goodbye warmly in front of his hut, and Rango and I walk a few more kilometers downhill to set up our camp by a small stream just before Remeți. The mountainous landscape takes its toll, and so I am already exhausted and in bed by 8:00 p.m.

On Monday (14.08.2017), I get up at eight and hang my laundry in the morning sun. Some tea is prepared at the fire, it is still quite cool at my campsite. A few cows graze nearby, with whom Rango seems to want to pick a fight - he is not allowed to. After packing up our stuff and the laundry is dry, we start towards Remeți in the early afternoon. I didn't see any shopping opportunities in the village, but we also turned off before reaching the town center. We walk along a stream for about 2 hours, past a few isolated alpine-like huts and a lumberjack brigade, before we climb up to Staul Vacii. The hut is marked on my map and I hope for a small snack or even a place to stay. It takes us over an hour to cover the two kilometers, partly steep uphill. For this part of the way, I have entrusted Rango with his saddlebags again and filled up the water reserves. During the climb, I am sure that my stage for the day ends on the mountain, as my strength noticeably diminishes. At first glance at the hut, there is disappointment, it doesn't look like accommodation - snack uncertain. As I get closer, an older woman greets me in front of the wooden shack. I put down the dog and luggage, but I don't even get a chance to sit down before I am promptly invited for coffee. Communication is difficult again - no network. But my altitude seems apparent, and I am served a bowl of greasy soup with potato and meat pieces, along with plenty of bread, without even asking for it. Just the right thing to regain strength. For dessert, there is a kind of langos with fresh cheese incorporated into the crust. Everything very tasty! A short time later, her husband and son come back with a mixed herd of sheep and goats, accompanied by their shepherd dogs. If I interpret correctly, the three of them live in this little cottage for the summer. Time truly seems to have stood still here. After the break, to my surprise, I feel quite fit again and decide to head for a dam lake about 10 kilometers away later in the afternoon. When saying goodbye, I have to persuade the hostess to accept a small donation for the hospitality. After another 3 hours of hiking, which I complete in one go and which mainly lead me downhill, I reach Lacul de acumulare Floroiu. The first Romanians that Rango approaches (he just gets in their car) spontaneously give me a couple of bananas and chips. For accommodation, I approach a group of young people who have set up their tents in a cozy spot. As it turns out, they belong to the Hungarian minority in Transylvania and all work in Cluj. They invite me to dinner and we spend a convivial evening by the campfire with a magnificent view of the reservoir.