Bandar Siraf - in the Persian Gulf

On Sunday morning, February 2nd, 2020, breakfast is already served at half past eight at Azadi Park in Shiraz. Then we slowly pack up our stuff and I take another stroll with Rango in the park before we head south. In Shiraz, an oil change is scheduled for the T4, we restock our food supplies, and then we hit the road again. Along the way, we stop at an old watchtower for a little lunch break. Located in the mountains, it's a wonderful spot. It's already around seven o'clock when we finally arrive at a beach in Bandar Siraf on the Persian Gulf. Shortly after our arrival, we are visited by a police patrol who discreetly remind Koohyar not to be too obvious with his affair with Txell. Extramarital relationships are not well regarded in Iran.

As a young Iranian woman with a foreign friend, there would surely have been bigger problems. After dinner together, we have a tea with the patrol, who come by again, and then the sound of the sea lulls me to sleep.

On Monday morning, I take the opportunity to go for a morning swim in the Persian Gulf. Magnificent. Then breakfast is served, and I unexpectedly get a visit at the tent. Gitta and Karlotta, two young cyclists from Hamburg, had set up their camp nearby the previous evening and now take the opportunity for a chat in German. Then François invites us for coffee before it's time to pack up slowly. In the meantime, Rango is struggling with some kind of epileptic seizure. He convulses for what feels like an eternity, but luckily he recovers. Completely confused, he tries to run away, but after some comforting words, he comes back. Once the two girls from Hamburg have found a spot for themselves and their bikes, we continue along the coast. The turquoise-blue Gulf on the right, the partly rugged Zagros Mountains on the left. After about 150 km, we set up our camp somewhere in the middle of nowhere on the coast. After Koohyar and I have gathered some firewood, the evening peacefully fades away by the fire with live music (Gitta and Pablo have brought instruments).

On the fourth of February (Tuesday), I go for a swim in the morning before breakfast, not just once during the day. At noon, the two cyclists leave us and the rest of us relax mostly in the shade. The winter here feels quite summery. After gathering some more firewood, we cook together in the evening and lounge around the campfire.

On Wednesday morning, a small fishing boat is near our camp, and Koohyar can order some fresh fish for the afternoon. Otherwise, I wash some laundry and myself at a nearby water source, take care of the fresh fish in the afternoon, and enjoy the wonderful spot where we stay. We spend the evening by the fire again, this time with a fish barbecue and other delicacies. Around midnight, sweet dough sticks and a cup of coffee round off the feast.

Thursday (February 6th, 2020) is planned for the onward journey, so after a morning swim and a small breakfast, it's time to pack up. We also decide to collect some garbage all around, but like everywhere else, it feels like a futile endeavor, there is just too much. On our way along the coast, we stop again for some shopping, refill our camping gas, and finally settle down at a kind of rest stop near Bandar-e Moallem after about 200 km. After dinner together, the day once again comes to an end by the fire in good company.