#126 The Market of Elbasan

May 13, 2022: Elbasan

J. The Market of Elbasan has been recommended to us several times on our trip through Albania. We had read in a guidebook and a blog that it should be the largest and most beautiful market in Albania and particularly authentic. Of course, we didn't want to miss that! Unfortunately, even after extensive research, we couldn't find out anything about the market other than the facts/claims mentioned above. We didn't know where or when the market takes place. I only vaguely remembered reading somewhere that it takes place every day in the morning, but I wasn't sure about that.

Therefore, on Friday we got up early in Belsh and drove to Elbasan. We drove around the city and looked for people with plastic bags full of vegetables or generally for large crowds or market stalls. In the fourth largest city in the country, it is not so easy to find the "most beautiful and largest market in Albania" if you don't know where or what you are actually looking for (market hall?, marketplace?, market street?). There was a lot going on in the city, but we didn't find any concrete hints of a market. So we decided to park and go to the lively zone indicated on Google Maps. It was indeed very lively there, the street cafes were full, and from time to time we found individual market stalls by the roadside. We also found a small market where you can have yourself weighed and your watch repaired, among other things, but we were sure that we hadn't reached our destination yet.

When we asked a woman about the market, she explained the way to the Jumbo and Spar markets. It was only when we asked about the "Bazar" that we found out that the market we were looking for was diagonally opposite Jumbo and Spar, down the street. (For those who are also trying to find out where the market is: It is on Rruga Thoma Kalefi Street, south diagonally opposite Jumbo and Spar, and is even marked as "Tregu i ushqimit" on Google Maps.)

Along the way there were already many stands selling textiles and clothing. We entered the covered market, which resembled a market hall, and were surrounded by vegetable and fruit vendors. There were also a few stalls offering cheese and other dairy products or spices. On Friday morning at half past nine, not all, but most of the stalls were occupied, many locals were shopping, and there was a relaxed but very busy atmosphere. We also bought vegetables and fruit and were amazed at how cheap the prices were. At one stand, we paid only 40 Lek, which is about 32 cents, for four cucumbers, two zucchinis, and some onions!

Nevertheless, we were a bit disappointed with the market. I expected more from the "most beautiful and largest market in Albania". Admittedly, in a way, the market was beautiful, but not particularly large. Maybe we were used to seeing beautiful and large markets from other countries, especially in Asia, that we cannot objectively evaluate it. However, if you are passing near Elbasan, the market is definitely worth a visit for buying vegetables and fruit. (Of course, it could also be that we didn't find the right market and the "largest and most beautiful market in Albania" is still hidden somewhere else in Elbasan.)

On the way back, we walked through the old town, through the old castle walls, and past the ancient and beautiful King's Mosque. (Unfortunately, my hands were full of bags full of vegetables, so I didn't take any photos.)

For the journey from Elbasan to Tirana, we took the panoramic road over the Krraba Pass. From the top, we had a wide view of Elbasan and its huge steel plant. During communist times, the steel plant was called the "Party Steel" and employed 12,000 workers. Now it is operated by a Turkish company. Unfortunately, this still causes a lot of environmental and air pollution.

In addition, there were wonderful views of the mountains.

Day 210 - Total tour 15,871 km

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