Görlitz on the Lausitzer Neiße

Görlitz, the easternmost small town in Germany, connected by a bridge with the Polish city of Zgorzelec. Görlitz, the city with over 3000 listed buildings from the late Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Gründerzeit periods. A city that was worth millions of euros to an anonymous donor to preserve the splendor of its architectural treasures. Certainly also Görlitz as a film city "Görliwood", whose epochal diversity served as a film set for nationally and internationally award-winning productions.

Görlitz is definitely worth a visit. In my hometown in East Westphalia, I board the IC, which takes me to Berlin Ostbahnhof. From here, the East German Railway takes over the journey to Cottbus. With one last transfer in Cottbus, I will reach Görlitz. Delicate birch and pine trees line the route, alternating with pastures and cultivated land. Sometimes the train stops. But not at every station, there are request stops on this route. Passengers are only allowed to get off after pressing a button. So after a good hour, the train comfortably arrives at Görlitz station. The beautiful ceilings of the entrance hall take me back to the time of its construction. Görlitz station opened in 1847.

As an experienced train traveler, I am thrilled by cities whose train stations are centrally located in the city center. You get off the train, catch a glimpse of the old town, sit down in one of the numerous cafes - preferably outdoors - and immerse yourself in the city's character and its people.
Görlitz also allows you to immerse yourself. Differently. Berliner Straße connects the train station with the old town. Magnificent Gründerzeit houses line up like pearls here. The generous width of the street invites you to stop and let your gaze wander. The eye should linger on the facades and gables, because well-known chain stores offer their goods on the ground floor. A leisurely tram completes the picture.

After a kilometer-long walk along Berliner Straße and Demianplatz, the historic old town is announced with the Kaisertrutz, a bastion built in 1490 to protect the city. The "Reichenbacher Rondell" received the name Kaisertrutz in 1641. At this time, Swedish troops occupied the small Görlitz and "defied" the approaching imperial and Saxon troops. Today, the "Gallery of Modern Art" presents art from the 19th and 20th centuries here.

On the cobblestones, my steps slow down. By now, I have to acquaint myself with the architectural styles of the historic buildings: Gothic? Renaissance? Baroque? Art Nouveau? When was that again?

From Obermarkt, Brüderstraße leads to Untermarkt and Neißstraße, which, as the name suggests, leads directly to the Neiße River. In these streets and their branching side streets, my eyes perceive the beauty and variety of the historic buildings.

Back to the beginning. In close proximity to the Kaisertrutz stands the Reichenbacher Tower. It combines two architectural styles. Its cuboid base from 1376 and the cylindrical tower from 1485 can be attributed to the Gothic style, while a Baroque dome sits on top.
The Renaissance era adds color to the picture.
Today, one of the most ornate and oldest Renaissance town houses in Germany houses the Schlesisches Museum, the Schönhof (1526). The impressive building is located at Brüderstraße 9. Its red window frames, arches, and cornices stand out like little beacons of light against the gray, no matter where I approach it from. Its builder, Wendel Roßkopf, also placed his monogram and mason's mark on the portal of the house at Brüderstraße 11.

Another colorful eye-catcher, but with milder tones, is the Ratsapotheke (1550-1552) at the corner of Untermarkt/Peterstraße. Noteworthy are the imposing archway and the facade painting. On the ground floor - and in warmer temperatures in front of the portal - the Ratscafé offers its guests both history and culinary delights.

With its white cuboid joints on the gray plaster and the stepped gables kept in lighter gray, I have chosen the house at Peterstraße 7 (1544) as my personal favorite. Its floors differ slightly from each other and seem to flow towards me in a wave-like manner.

On Neißstraße 29, the biblical house from the years 1570-1572 displays scenes from the Old and New Testaments on its facade. And even more messages: In the neighboring house Neißstraße 30 (1727-1729), two angel-like figures embody the virtues of "justice" and "wisdom". It is the most important Baroque house in the city of Görlitz, as you can read in the travel books.

With a short detour to An der Frauenkirche, I want to mention a building that gained worldwide fame. The former Görlitz Department Store, an Art Nouveau building from 1912/13, "played" the hotel in the film "The Grand Budapest Hotel", which won four Oscars.

From the biblical house on Neißstraße, it is only a few steps to the Neiße River. The Old Town Bridge leads me to the Polish twin city of Zgorzelec. The river is narrow here, it is only a short distance. Without border controls and inconspicuous: closeness, connection, friendship. On both sides of the Neiße, cafes and restaurants invite you to linger in front of and behind their centuries-old walls.

I experience history here. And future.

Görlitz is definitely worth a visit.

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