Kobe - Day 1 - Steaks 'n Cash

Last Walk through Osaka

I'm standing under the hot shower, thinking. Hot showers are the perfect place for that. I reflect on the past weeks. I think about the silence in the shrines. And I wonder if maybe there is something similar near me. No, I can't remember anything spiritual like that near us. I wonder if I should create a place with such energy in my apartment. A place of mindfulness, calmness, and contemplation.

I set off, off to the next hotel in Kobe. I'm glad I don't have to drag around a suitcase, but that I have my backpack. Thanks, Nora! :)

Once again, I walk through the unpleasant area from yesterday. It's not so bad during the day, but it still smells like piss. I think. I still have plenty of time before I can check into the hotel, not until 3:00. So I search for the nearest shrine on Google Maps. Of course, there are a lot of them, the nearest one is only 15 minutes away. I make my way there.

As I stroll towards my destination, I pass by another temple. A consumer temple called Don Quijote, its trademark is a cute penguin. I go inside, explore the store. I should have brought better breadcrumbs, I actually get lost in the store. They have almost everything here. A mix of Real and Action. Just more packed. Finally, after half an hour, I find my way out of the product maze.

Later at the shrine, I encounter a Latino guy with a booger brake, I have already seen him somewhere else. We get into a conversation. He asks me where life takes place. After a short search on Google Maps, I find the district where we were on our last day and recommend Dotonbori to him. The shrine itself is disappointing. I don't want to send my prayers here. Commercial vibes. I look for another one. The next one is a 10-minute walk away. Let's go.

The next temple is exactly what I expected. A secluded place right in the city. I slowly climb the steep stairs, encounter an older man who kindly greets me with "Konichiwa." I greet him back friendly. He sweeps the stairs, in the right corner I catch a glimpse of an older lady with a broom, who in turn takes care of hers. Both keep the facility in order, lovingly take care of the temple. I go to the main shrine, ground myself, throw in 50 yen, and go through the same procedure as yesterday. Health, recovery, and happiness. To the right of the 'Saisen' donation box is a box full of Omikuji. Omikuji are paper strips with written fortunes that can be found in Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples in Japan. I donate the 200 yen and take an Omikuji with me.

I make my way to the subway. As I walk along the main street, I can't believe my eyes, but in a positive way. In front of a shop with many bicycles, there is a 5-year-old boy sitting with a helmet on in a child seat on the luggage rack. Sleeping. Nowhere in sight is a guardian. This still works here. In other places, you would probably be too afraid of the child, and maybe even rightfully so.

Off to Kobe

I get off after 20 minutes of the subway ride, leave the ticket gate, and am amazed. 600 meters to the next area where I can take the JR-Line. Osaka Station is a behemoth when it comes to size. On the way to the platform, I don't even leave the building. Well, at least I don't go outside, I don't know what's passing above me.

In Kobe, I get off. I paid the equivalent of 4.50 € for the one-hour train ride with one transfer from the subway to the express train. Ridiculously cheap.

Once in Kobe, I take a little walk and then go to the mall. There I get something cheap but nourishing and delicious to eat and drink. A complete meal for 7.17 €.

As Fate Would Have It

Since I still have some time before check-in, I choose, of course, the nearest shrine in the vicinity.
I already find it a bit surprising that they also have a Google Maps rating. I set off, walk through the entertainment district, and come to a side entrance to the temple grounds. There I thoughtfully walk through the 22 Torii gates to the small shrine. The deliberate approach in the temples is a balancing pole to the many quickly passing impressions. I perform the same procedure as this morning; praying for recovery, health, and happiness. I walk a little further and realize that the temple complex is relatively large. I take a look at the Emas, wooden plaques with wishes on them. I also read a few in English and German.
Something makes me curious, I look up the shrine on Wikipedia and find out that I stumbled upon the oldest shrine in the country purely by chance. Things can happen so quickly here. I also learn that this shrine is the guardian of health.

The shrine also attracts a lot of young couples, who visit the shrine to get hold of amulets; white for boys and red for girls, believed to bring their happiness and romance to a happy end.

That explains the many heart Emas. There are a number of lucky charms. I decide to come back tomorrow and take some with me.

Fighting the Elections

Campaigning is something special. There are signs reserved for each candidate explicitly. It is also common here for the candidates to be driven around in a speaker car, sitting in the back and waving.

Walk to the Hotel

I keep marching. I could also take public transportation, which would probably be a bit more comfortable with the backpack, but I also enjoy exploring the area. I pass by a City Picnic Park halfway. Super interesting concept.

My hotel is in the harbor, it is an industrial harbor halfway to the airport. I enter and am amazed: the reception is on the 9th floor, in front of me is the fitness studio. I take the elevator up and am astonished. Wow, everything looks very chic here. I unwrap everything and realize: laundry service? Let's check! Sauna? Cool, I'll do it! Bathtub? I'll definitely do it!

The Japanese Mr. Krabs

Later in the evening, I go out into the city. I have reserved a spot in a steakhouse. I will later realize that 'house' is a bit overstated. 😁 When I'm in Kobe, I have to have Kobe beef on the table, of course. I leave the hotel, it's raining, I turn back for my umbrella. After a short ride on the train, I go out into the city, explore a bit, and stand in line at a traffic light behind two young girls, both maybe 14 years old. The girl with the hat squints in my direction, suddenly she giggles and says something to the other. She looks around, giggles too. Both giggle because I'm covering the girl without a hat with my umbrella. Japanese people are adorable when they're genuinely happy.

Later, I end up at Not's, the steakhouse. At first, I have trouble finding it. I find it. After a while, I enter and find a 4 * 6-meter room. The walls are mostly unfinished, there are exposed pipes. Nevertheless, it is inviting, it has charm and atmosphere. When I come in, I am greeted very kindly by the master chef, next to him behind the counter is his young assistant. Since all signs and the menu are in Kanji, Japanese characters, I had the same language barrier concerns for the chef. Oh boy, was I wrong. He speaks good English, he engages me in conversation. At first, I answer reluctantly, but then it turns into a very entertaining evening.

He asks me where I'm from right at the beginning. 'Germany? I have a friend in Germany. I've been there.' We compare Germans and Japanese. We both laughingly realize that German food (compared to Japanese food) sucks. 🤣 His laughter is so rewarding, I have never heard a Japanese person laugh so heartily. We talk about 'the three' in this area. Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe. Now it also becomes clear to me here why I can't do much with Osaka.

'Kyoto people love Kobe. Kobe people love Kyoto. Half of them don't like Osaka people. Osaka loves cash.'

I ask him where he comes from. He comes from Osaka. 'So you love cash?', I ask him.
'Yes, I love cash. Want to order another beer?', he replies with his hearty laughter.

I ask him what his actual dream job would have been. He would have loved to be an actor. He tells me about a scene in which he said "I love you!" to a dog for 10 minutes in every conceivable way. 'Silly. Stupid.' he comments.
I tell him that I do improv, do a speedrun of the 3-minute chair. Both Japanese behind the counter laugh. Physical comedy knows no language barriers.

Finally, it's about money. 'Card or cash?', he asks. 'Cash, of course!', I reply. 'I love cash!', says the laughing Japanese Mr. Krabs.
He says goodbye with 'Please don't leave, stay in Japan forever!' and bows deeply. The evening cost me 37 €, it was worth every yen.