Lama Kheno!

Lama, don't forget me! This is how the devoted phrase 'Lama Kheno!' could be translated. My teacher Sonam Jorphel Rinpoche definitely remembers me: With a crooked and slightly surprised smile on his aged face, Rinpoche greets me at Rinchen Palri Monastery. 'When did you arrive?' he asks. That's enough to know that he knows exactly who he's talking to. It's not taken for granted. Because after a serious illness, old age has left its mark on the 84-year-old Rinpoche. Sometimes he doesn't remember more recent encounters.

It's only a few seconds when I hand him the traditional Kathakh (silk scarf) during a ceremony on the full moon day. But those few seconds trigger so much in me. Immense joy to see my old teacher again after years - at the same time a great sadness because he is clearly suffering and in pain, but also - quite selfishly - in light of the many beautiful memories that arise and make me aware of the impermanence.

Excursion for Peace

But let's start from the beginning. It's been a long time since I wrote anything. Lack of internet and lack of time made typing impossible. Well then: After my ordained friend Rangdröl informed me about Rinpoche's arrival in Kathmandu, I immediately booked a flight. Expensive. Additionally, it was only possible to get a seat for the day after tomorrow.

I used the extra day in Ladakh for a little trip to a place where I had already been with Amira 15 years ago. Back then, there was no road to the Shanti Stupa in Leh either. We had to climb countless steps to reach the sanctuary located on a hill. Shanti means peace or spirit of peace. And whoever circumambulates the stupa, chants mantras, and prays, contributes a little more harmonious energy to this world. It really needs it now, I think.

Today, there is a road to the stupa, no more old steps. Nevertheless, I decline the offer from Rangdröl's family to drive me there by car. I want to walk. Just like before. My watch counts 18,000 steps later in the evening: And quite a few of them are uphill. A workout at almost 4,000 meters above sea level :-). No wonder I am very hungry on the way back and make a big mistake. But more on that later.

A Bag of Rice as a Farewell

Back in Leh, I have a little experience with a shoe polisher. My shoes are extremely dirty after all the climbing through the dusty landscape, so I decide to accept the offer of the shoe polisher sitting on the roadside in rags. He speaks really good English and praises my leather shoes in the highest tones. It's part of the trade, I think. And I am quite surprised when he asks me for food instead of money at the end. He claims his boss would take the money away anyway.

Such a clever shoe polisher! - In the end, he owns a bag of rice worth 500 rupees (a little over 6 euros). Normally, this small service costs 20 rupees. Good deal. It doesn't matter, I'm glad to have secured meals for his family for the next few weeks. And the 6 euros don't hurt me. Besides, my shoes shine perfectly!

Full of Drikungpas

The next morning, I have to get up early. Rangdröl's niece Angmo drives me to the airport together with her boyfriend. The two of them are planning a trip to the lake on this day anyway and don't have to make a big detour. In return, I promise Angmo to buy the silk for a traditional dress for her in Kathmandu, which she wants to have sewn for a family wedding.

At the airport in Leh, I then meet some nuns from our lineage, one of whom was also present at the ceremony for Rangdröl's deceased relative at the beginning of my journey. Unfortunately, they have a different flight and arrive in Kathmandu two hours after me. I still have company. Dorje, a monk from Rinchen Palri Monastery who has just visited his family in Ladakh, is also on his way to his teacher Sonam Jorphel Rinpoche. I will be very happy about Dorje's presence....

But first, we meet the nuns again during the layover in Delhi, as well as a few more monks from our lineage Drikung Kagyud. When Rangdröl, as concerned as always, asks me via WhatsApp how Delhi is, I send him a photo of the whole group and write: 'Full of Drikungpas.' A big family in a small world.

Averted Mishap

From the scorching heat of Delhi, we continue the journey to the rainy Kathmandu in less than 2 hours by plane. It is rainy season in Nepal and it lives up to its name as we leave the Kathmandu airport building somewhat exhausted. Suddenly my stomach complains as Dorje and I get into a taxi. I probably shouldn't have eaten the tuna salad on the way back from the Shanti Stupa. Rangdröl can hardly believe my stupidity later. And neither can I, by the way. It's not like it's my first time here. Anyway, thanks to Dorje, despite the traffic jam and chaos on the road, a major mishap is avoided in the taxi. Phew....

But I am sick. I feel weak when we arrive at the monastery. However, that is not the focus for now, as Tenzin, a yogi whom I have known since his childhood, comes running towards me with a joyful and completely bewildered expression upon my arrival. Coincidentally, Tenzin's mother Drölma and his sister Sonam also arrive at the same time.

Something Different than Broken English

The joy of reunion is incredible. They have all grown very dear to me over the past decades. And I am particularly happy to finally be able to exchange a few words in my language with Sonam, who spent a year in Germany. Broken English in the long run is quite exhausting, even though I am slowly starting to think in English. So, I experience some wonderful days in Rinchen Palri, where one ceremony follows another. And after my teacher has rested for a day, he seems to be doing well during the subsequent audience that I have with Drölma and another woman from Ladakh. He smiles again and asks with great interest about Thomas. However, the unlucky one cannot enter, as his PCR test is positive. Fortunately, the already booked flight is insured. Man, I would have loved to see my sweetheart. And I would have wished for him - like everyone else - to meet Rinpoche.

Feverish Empowerments

I am fortunate to be able to attend two empowerments on the third and fourth day after my arrival, which Rinpoche specially gives for the yogis who would otherwise be stuck in their spiritual practice. In fact, my teacher has traveled all the way from Vietnam for this purpose. He gives Chakrasamvara and Dorje Pagmo empowerments on the two consecutive days. The next day, the ten yogis are among themselves with our teacher. He gives them detailed instructions on the practice of the respective meditation. Unfortunately, in addition to my diarrhea, I am now also running a fever, so I am quite out of it during the entire ceremonies.

Luxury in Boudha

And because there is nothing for me to do at the monastery during the teachings for the yogis (excursions in the area should be avoided anyway, as the monastery is located in the midst of a jungle inhabited by snakes, leopards, and tigers), I make my way to Boudha in the heart of Kathmandu. Thanks to Ferdinand, a German friend who has been living in Nepal and Thailand for decades, I have a ride and also receive the best hotel tip from him. The Lotus Gems in Boudha is not only luxuriously furnished but even has its own swimming pool. That is a rarity here in Nepal. 45 dollars a night is quite decent by local standards - but okay. I just need to relax. So far, I haven't been able to spend much anyway, because I constantly have to fight to be allowed to pay once.

So, from my sparse room in Rinchen Palri to the luxury hotel in Boudha, where my first highlight - of course - is a hot shower. I sleep like a baby, indulge in the extensive breakfast buffet, treat myself to a back and facial treatment at the spa, and quickly get back on my feet.

Well, this has gotten quite long now. Therefore: I will report about the candlelight procession in Swayambhu and other events in Kathmandu next time...