Day 26: Gunlom Falls & Maguk in Kakadu NP

17th July 2018

Today we set off early morning on the road again.

After breakfast, we head to the 130km distant "Gunlom Falls". I have long considered whether it makes sense to visit Jim Jim Falls and Tower Falls. Both are very remote and can only be reached via a 4x4 trail. Most rental car agreements prohibit driving there…

After extensive internet research, I decide against visiting the remote falls. On the one hand, the drive there would take too much time and the falls probably have little water at this time of year. In the end, it was the best decision because the two falls today are great - especially for the kids.
We leave Cooinda Lodge shortly after 8:00 and head towards Gunlom Falls.

We have to stop several times on the way to take pictures of the monstrous termite mounds on the roadside. They are very impressive.

During the drive, we see a true forest of termite mounds on both sides of the road.

At 9 o'clock we reach the turnoff to the falls and the campground of the same name. The excitement of being at the falls before the heat sets in (you have to climb the mountain first) quickly subsides as the road turns into a sand and gravel trail after a few meters. Hooray, another "trail", but we have our 4x4 Jeep so we're well equipped.

Completely different from the motorhome in front of us, which is also thundering over the ruts at top speed. The tourists (2 gentlemen from Holland, whom we coincidentally met at Ubir Rock) eventually hit the brakes and stop. Apparently, all the cabinets in the motorhome have opened and contents have flown around!? They park on the side and get out of the motorhome to inspect it from all sides. That must have made quite a noise...
We continue in true Jeep style over the trail (I get to drive too), according to maps, the whole spectacle will continue for another 35 km...
After crossing a bridge and swallowing the dust clouds of oncoming vehicles, we reach the parking lot.

We pack everything up quickly, food and drinks, swimwear, and off we go! The trail is signposted. It follows an extremely sweaty climb over rocks, roots, stairs, and paths - and then we've made it! We arrive at the lower waterhole of Gunlom Falls at 10:45.

At the top of the rock plateau, several water pools await us with different colors and depths. We are dripping with sweat - it's already over 30 degrees by 10 o'clock - so off into the cool water! And yes, it really is cool water! Ice-cold - but awesome!!!!

Finally some refreshment!
From up here, we can look over the edge to the waterhole below. There, on the right side in the shallow "yellow glowing" water, we see a family with children splashing around, while on the left side, 3 crocodiles (!), in this case "little Freshies" (freshwater crocodiles) float motionless in the water.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh - I would never swim down there, never ever...
We're quite happy to be up here and dedicate ourselves to the upper pools.

However, the rocky ground and the rocks at the edge are incredibly slippery. We don't see any animals. We then walk a bit further up where there are more waterholes. These are even bigger and noticeably deeper and lead further up into a kind of canyon. But we don't dare to go in that far. Maybe there are crocodiles up here after all!

It's not exactly relaxed swimming, but definitely a refreshment! Even though the climb is not easy, I can highly recommend it!

The view from up here is amazing!
Speaking of views: in the distance, we see a large column of smoke - there's a huge fire burning in the bush!
After the refreshing swim, we start the descent again. It's not quite as easy, as it's very slippery and steep everywhere - and we're all wearing sturdy hiking shoes!

The vacationers coming towards us are wearing flip-flops exclusively. It's a mystery to me how anyone can climb up here with those things.

Once we reach the bottom, we of course take a look at the waterhole where Paul Hogan swam as Crocodile Dundee. That brings back memories - we're at a real filming location *haha*.

We can't see the Freshies anymore, they seem to have disappeared into the reeds. Nobody is swimming in the little beach with the bright yellow water anymore.

After taking photos of the crocodile warning signs, we head back to the car.

Now it's time to go back 35 km along the trail.
Meanwhile, the two Dutch guys have also arrived and are sitting in the shade in front of their motorhome with a beer. Seems like that's the calming beer *grin*.

At 13:30 we start back towards the main road, then it's off to the "Barramundi Falls", also known as "Maguk".
After some time on the paved main road, we notice a pungent smell coming from outside: smoke!

There's a fire somewhere. It's probably even the fire we saw from the Falls!?
In any case, we have to make an emergency stop when suddenly 3 donkeys shoot across the road out of nowhere.
Up until now, we've always been on the lookout for emus, dingoes, and kangaroos, but we didn't expect donkeys (!?) in that moment!

We stop and pull over. It seems that a bushfire is raging further in the woods, because the donkeys are fleeing from the fire. While the 3 donkeys stand frightened side by side on one side, a 4th donkey on the other side is too afraid to cross the road. We turn off the engine and remain calm, and then, after an emu actually crosses the road, donkey number 4 follows the "I-AAA" of its buddies and gallops across the road.

Then they hide in the thicket and watch us closely. They are incredibly shy and then quickly disappear.

We follow the road to the junction "Barramundi Gorge // Maguk" and enjoy the next sandy trail - but this time it's only 10 km long.

From the parking lot, we have to go on a longer hike passing several waterholes until we reach the huge waterhole with a waterfall at the end of the path.

Every now and then, we have to climb over rocks, as there are no real "trails" here.

At the beginning, there are the standard warning signs (beware of crocs etc.). According to the ranger, there have been no crocodile sightings here for weeks. Well, let's hope so.

When we arrive at the main waterhole, I'm also thinking that if there was a crocodile here, it would have either fled because of the many swimmers in the pool, or it would have long been full...

It's busy here! Tourists are everywhere, on all the rocks. The main rock serves as a diving platform, where you can jump into the cool water at different heights (I estimate around 1m - 6m).
Of course, the kids have to do it with their dad. I swim to the other side of the rock pool and watch. Since the sun sets quite early, the waterhole is soon in shadow. My camera is in the backpack, so unfortunately, only the cellphone photo remains. Well, we experienced it live - and it's great!!!!
In terms of fun factor, "Maguk" is definitely the winner! So it was the best decision to visit the two waterholes today.
We head back to Cooinda Lodge in the sunset. Now it's time to watch out! Wildlife can cross the road - and sure enough, we see a dingo and 2 horses by the roadside. How cool!!

Past the huge termite mounds that we took photos of this morning, we return to the lodge in the sunset.

For the statistics:
Hotel: Cooinda Lodge
Costs: €169 / night in a bungalow with breakfast
Distance driven: 286 km
Vehicle: 4x4 Mitsubishi Outlander
Wildlife sightings: Wild donkeys, emus, termites, horses, and a dingo
Weather: Plenty of sun at 35 degrees!
Conclusion: Swimming in the Maguk Falls has the highest fun factor!