Peloponnes 2019
Peloponnes 2019
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Pylos or the Bay of Navarino

יצא לאור: 19.07.2019

#TravelingLikeInHeaven Part 3

Pylos is the destination of today's journey. A pretty harbor town with a relaxed atmosphere and yet bustling activity.

Also a place of historical significance. It is here that the independence of Greece began. The witnesses of this struggle have been lying at the bottom of the sea in front of Pylos since 1827. Diving is strictly prohibited here.

I am sitting under the shade of the huge plane tree in the square of the three admirals at the cafe. The noise of battle has long faded, the skeletons of the dead in the sea have decayed.

Here, the Turkish fleet, supported by the Egyptians, lost its supremacy in Greece. The English, Russians, and French won the naval battle of Navarino and thus heralded the end of Ottoman rule in Greece.

What would my Turkish and Egyptian students say about the history of Pylos? In everyday school life, they argue about which country is better, which religion is right. And which feelings of whom were deeper offended today. And therefore need to be avenged. They know little about the history of their countries of origin, as they were born in Austria. But they carry the struggles, victories, and defeats of their ancestors in their collective memory.

The sun shines from the sky in Pylos, the visit to the castle is denied, closed on Tuesdays. A huge bell hangs on the tree. It can no longer strike the last hour, the clapper is missing. The view of the bay is a dream.

A walk along the harbor. The view falls on the islands off the coast, where the monuments of the fallen Russians, English, and French are said to be located. 600 dead on the side of the victors. Nothing reminds us of the around 4,000 dead Turks and Egyptians. The winner takes it all.

I cannot decide to visit the islands, the sea tempts with other pleasures. History has a break.

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