30.04 - 07.05.2019 # Samoa, Savaii

After an extremely comfortable flight from Rarotonga, we land in Auckland for the last time. Since we crossed the date line in the opposite direction this time, our gained day is already gone. Too bad. Now we are 10 hours ahead of the time back home.

Following a sudden inspiration, we changed our accommodation booking a few days ago and now check in directly at the Novotel right at the terminal. This way, we save ourselves any transfers, as you just have to leave the airport building and cross the street. This allows us to quickly check in the next morning before breakfast and then relax in the room. We gladly accept the extra cost for the location.

The departure passport control is very quick thanks to the machines. However, I get caught again at the security check. Since my regulator bag has been stored in the big luggage, I do not expect any more difficulties. But no luck. This time, the case with the ukulele arouses the suspicion of the officer. She thoroughly checks the (empty) outer pockets first, before she starts to unwind the padding and unpack the uke completely. Well, at least there are a few appreciative comments from bystanders who are interested in the whole thing. After everything has been patted down and inspected, a swab test is done. But somehow, the good lady still does not seem convinced of the innocence, so she first gets the okay from a supervisor before I can pack everything up again. Well, the flight should be safe.

Unfortunately, Air New Zealand, which is otherwise extremely pleasant, has messed up our specially booked (and paid for) seats in the front of the aircraft. Apart from an apology and the promise of compensation, we couldn't get anything more at the service counter. Generally not a big deal, if we hadn't booked the seats with careful consideration. We actually wanted to sit as far forward as possible to avoid longer waiting times when disembarking and to get the formalities at immigration done as quickly as possible. After the planned arrival time, we have about one and a half hours to pick up our rental car and drive to the ferry terminal. Every saved minute can count.

Fortunately, the authorities at Faleolo Airport in Apia are quite efficient, so we pass through immigration and customs after just over thirty minutes and approach Avis. We had ordered the car when booking the flight through Air New Zealand. The handover of the Toyota RAV 4 goes smoothly and we even have time to get local prepaid cards. Here, they are priced according to the required duration of validity and the corresponding data volume. We choose ones with a 2-week validity and get a whopping 12GB for 50 WST (€17). Can't complain about that. Although, we would have to spend extra for phone calls.

It is only about three kilometers to the Mulifanua ferry terminal, so we arrive there almost on time, 60 minutes before the ferry to Savaii departs. Thanks to an extensive email exchange with the Samoa Shipping Corporation, in the person of the extremely helpful and competent Jasmine Netzler, we are on the client list. After stating our names and paying our fee of 107 WST (€37), we are allowed to join the queue. The journey to Savaii takes about an hour with the large ferry. Apart from arriving by ‚own‘ car, we have experienced all of this before, so we immediately feel at home. When we leave the ferry at the Salelologa terminal around 5.15pm, dark clouds are still hanging over the town. However, that soon changes after we follow the South Coast Rd. heading north. From experience, we know that the drive will take about an hour. On Savaii, people drive rather leisurely and rarely faster than 60 km/h. And that's better, because in the towns, you always have to be prepared for free-roaming pigs or other animals crossing the road. In addition, there are occasional speed bumps in the form of small hills, which are sometimes very difficult to recognize because the color marking is missing. We enjoy the drive through the many small, colorful villages and the fantastic green nature, always looking out for things that still look familiar to us. In the meantime, we have to greet continuously. The Samoans are an extremely friendly people. Wherever you stand, go or drive, someone is constantly waving at you.

We finally reach our selected resort Stevenson's at Manase before dark. During our last visit to the island, we went there for a coffee. The ambiance was quite appealing, so we decided to stay there this time. In Stevenson's, there are luxurious villas, large beach bungalows, and traditional fales. Well, not quite traditional, because compared to the ubiquitous Samoan models, these have their own bathroom. Since we want to make our stay a bit more original, we will stay in one of the fales right by the water for the next 7 days and get exactly what we imagined.

In principle, we only have a bed with a roof over it. The walls all around are open, and palm mats serve as a view and weather protection, which can be lowered if necessary. Quite something else. Only the bathroom is completely made of lava stone and has a lockable door. This way, we can at least store our valuables securely. Above the bed, there is a fan that is supposed to provide coolness on hot nights. However, one has to decide whether to prefer sweating or being bitten by mosquitoes. If you use the mosquito net, which has a very tightly woven roof, the fan is almost ineffective. Nevertheless, we decide against the pests and occasionally wake up bathed in sweat. Otherwise, we usually fall asleep to the sound of the nearby surf. We have rarely been this close to it.

The next morning, we immediately set off to visit Tina and Olaf from Dive Savaii. We went diving with the two friendly fellow Germans in 2016. Unfortunately, the surprise fails completely because the two are currently in Apia on the other island attending a travel fair for their own business. When we hear that they will be back in two days, we are reassured as we were really looking forward to seeing them again. We quickly fix a date for the next day with Tapu and Jerry, the two employees of the dive center, before we drive around aimlessly. We are now in the same situation as on Rarotonga. We have already visited the tourist highlights last time, and now we are missing suitable destinations for activities. So, we finally find a restaurant for lunch before driving back and enjoying the amenities of our resort for the rest of the day. The pool, like everything else, is very well maintained, so we take our sundowner in the water.

The diving the next day literally falls into the water. The morning is gray and it occasionally rains, more or less heavily. Apart from washing away all the salt from the journey from the car, a clear sky would of course be preferable. When we arrive at the dive center at 8 am, Tapu tells us that it's better to come back tomorrow. Not a bad idea. We are not fair-weather divers, but the visibility underwater is usually much better with more light in sunny weather. So, we go back to Stevenson's and have a proper breakfast first. We had to do without it before because apparently they don't know early risers there, and nothing happens before 8 am.

Since I visited the hairdresser one last time before our departure and my hair has now reached threatening proportions, I ask about a nearby barber shop. There doesn't seem to be one in the immediate vicinity, as I am referred to the island's capital. Well, the weather still looks gloomy, so we set off for Salelologa. Just before the ferry terminal, we actually see the words 'Barber Shop' on a door as we drive by. We remember the spot and park the car at the nearest possible place. Right in front of a pizzeria. It's already past noon, so we each order a small pizza. We use the anticipated 45-minute wait to visit the hairdresser. The entrance to the back room is not easy to find, but inside, despite all the chaos, it already looks like a hairdresser's. I don't have to wait long, and after 20 minutes, I can look in the mirror without shuddering. The fun cost me only 10 WST (€3.41). Apparently, they have different minimum wages here than at home. And the master did a really good job.

The small pizza turns out to be a small wagon wheel and would have been considered XXL with us. We each only manage to eat 2-3 pieces and then give up, stuffed. The portions in Samoa are generally a bit more generous. But you can see that in the people too. Compared to many, I am just a small fry, so I am most likely to find T-shirts in size M in the children's section. I spontaneously give the rest of my still warm pizza to a few passing children, who are delighted and only stop waving when they turn around the next corner.

Afterwards, we visit the Afu Aau Waterfall, which is located in the middle of a piece of pristine jungle. It's a shame that the weather doesn't invite you to swim. On hot days, you can cool off here. It costs 5 WST per person for admission, but it's not much and is directly invested in a small infrastructure (toilets, etc.).

Later on the way back, when we make a refueling stop, we are begged for money by a small, pretty ragged-looking boy. The staff harshly chase him away. It's sad to see something like this here. With the seemingly 1000 Christian churches on Savaii, neighborly love should probably be one of the highest virtues. Maike spontaneously gives him the rest of her pizza, which earns her an approving nod from the surrounding locals.

After it rains and winds the whole following night, the morning is pleasantly sunny again. With Tapu, we now complete two dives as planned in Avao Bay, while Jerry takes care of our physical well-being. It was really nice again. But after a total of 140 minutes underwater, we are tired due to quite a bit of nitrogen in our bodies, so we just relax for the rest of the day.

On Saturday, we want to take a trip to the Taga Blowholes in the south of the island. On the way there, we briefly stop at Savaii Divers. Tina is still in Apia, and we will probably only see her on Monday when we go diving again. We briefly catch Olaf at the beach before he goes out with a boat full of snorkelers. He is as happy to see us as we are to see him, and the greeting is accordingly warm.

When we turn off the main road to the blowholes just before reaching our destination, I am initially a bit uneasy. The path leads over a rough lava stone track, and I'm not sure if that's too much for our SUV. But the high-legged vehicle master all the bumps confidently, even if at maximum walking speed. After paying the obligatory 10 WST fee to the landowner, we park before the official parking lot and unconsciously save ourselves from further costs.

The blowholes are truly a gigantic spectacle. Over an extremely long period of time, the surf has carved its way through the porous lava cliffs and now shoots fountains of over 5m in height into the air with rumbling and roaring. For a while, we enjoy the sight of the foaming natural force before deciding to circumnavigate the entire island on the way back. We hadn't managed to do that before because we had to abort the endeavor prematurely back then due to a flat tire. Said and done, and another white spot erased from the map.

On Sunday, public life in Samoa largely comes to a standstill. We briefly consider seeing for ourselves how crowded the numerous churches really are, but ultimately decide against it and have a very relaxed day. That feels really good again. Relaxing a bit, strumming the ukulele a bit, or splashing in the pool, great. In the evening, we have a delicious cocktail under the Southern Cross and end with a great steak and mashed potatoes. What a beautiful lazy day. :-)

On Monday, diving is on the agenda again. Unfortunately, Maike can't join because she caught a small cold. She only comes along briefly to greet Tina, then I drive her back to the resort where she wants to rest. With Olaf, Tapu, and a French diving student, I complete two dives at my two favorite sites, the Canyon and the Shipwreck. It was really fun again. During the surface interval, Olaf lures the turtle Roxanne to the surface with small pieces of papaya skin for feeding. So, I even get a good photo. I couldn't take pictures of the many turtles underwater because the GoPro is still not in dive mode (shame).

In the evening, Tina and Olaf come to have dinner at Stevenson's. We are delighted to spend some more time together. We have lively conversations about this and that. When I tell Olaf how amazed I was to see the Big Dipper here (although it's upside down), the term 'Big Curry Pot' eventually comes up, and we amusingly realize that we have preferences for the same TV series. The beautiful evening is over much too quickly, and it's time to say goodbye. We thank Tina again for the cardboard box she kindly provided for us. We want to get rid of the now superfluous part of our luggage and send it home by parcel, but more on that later.

The last night under the open sky is a warmer one. Cooling rain is not in sight, which always only comes when you don't need it. Luckily, we can still sleep well. After breakfast, we pack in peace. We have to leave by 10 am at the latest if we want to be on time for the ferry to Upolu. And that's exactly what we do. On the way, we quickly wave to Tina once again from the car and then arrive in Salelologa so early that we can even quickly buy tank tape for our package before driving to the wharf. Once there, we have to ask around until it turns out that the client list, which includes our online booking, is right at the entrance. Only the person we asked there seemed to know nothing about it. Finally, we get our tickets there and feel relieved.

We have to settle for the smaller ferry this time, which doubles the travel time and makes the waves much more noticeable. But in the end, what matters is that we reach Mulifanua safely.