Punoooooo!

उजवाडाक आयलां: 30.10.2018

That's about how it sounds when the ticket sellers at the bus station advertise the destination. Located at 4000m above sea level and on Lake Titicaca, Puno.... is rather ugly. Although the cathedral is beautiful, because for a change it is simple. However, there are almost no colonial houses in the city. Instead, it is absolutely authentic and lively here, as it is the folklore capital, which we were able to witness.

However, there are some nice things to see nearby. For example, Sillustani. These are a bunch of old Tiwanaku and Inca graves that did not randomly retain their somewhat peculiar shape. Basically, there are a bunch of phalli standing around in the area. At least the male heads of families were buried in the tower-like structures. Female matriarchs in square towers. Fortunately, the family members (except for the children) were sacrificed together so that the deceased would not be alone. They meet again in the afterlife. The penis shape is deliberately interpreted as a fertility sign in the sense of rebirth.

Afterwards, all tourists are allowed to pet alpacas and llamas in the museum village, buy handicrafts, and taste the fruta de la Pachamama. There are all kinds of potatoes (the best in the world in our opinion), quinoa, cheese, and a stone dissolved in porridge (chaco). Supposed to be very good for the stomach. Actually tastes like nothing.

There are a lot of small villages in the surrounding area and by the lake, one of which is Chucuito. It doesn't really get better after the shock (for unsuspecting, good churchgoers) of Sillustani. The phalli here are smaller, but much less stylized - to put it discreetly. The penises in the temple of fertility have probably often been used by women as seats to appease the gods of family planning.

But there are also some nice things there, namely 2 Baroque churches from colonial times that can be visited as part of a wedding (see previous blog entry). The associated cemeteries are very imaginative in terms of grave design (highly individual), overall picture (chaotic), grave offerings (beer bottles), flower decorations (plastic and in cut-up Coke bottles), and waste disposal (in empty grave chambers). Truly a place of peace and contemplation.

The city's folklore can be experienced even on the slightest occasion. For example, a parade is held only for the birthday (not even a round one) of a private (!) university, which starts at 2 and is not over by half past 10. All faculties of the university are waiting with their own band and several magnificently costumed dance groups. There is a lot of skin to be seen on the girls. It is also noteworthy that such a costume is often worth more than an average Peruvian wardrobe.

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