Oñemoherakuãva: 15.01.2020
I now have to slowly eat up the supplies that I partly bought in the beginning. Since I never know when or where I will be and have no idea if there are any supermarkets with what kind of selection in the vicinity of my overnight parking, I have to have supplies on the one hand, and on the other hand, I have to quickly consume fresh things because the mini fridge doesn't really have many storage options. In the first week, the fruit, vegetables, and salad froze in the fridge and I had to throw them away. These old devices in these constantly rented campers are not great and sometimes regulating them is a hassle. Doesn't matter. I slowly see the sun fighting the clouds and only leave after washing up and rearranging the beds shortly before 1 pm.
My destination is Uretiti Beach in the Bream Bay, 25km south of Whangarei. I saw this beach, or rather this bay, when I drove by 5 years ago and it was a wish to be there. At that time, I didn't have time to stop because I had an accident with my rental car and had to take the car back to Auckland for rental.
The wind is again whipping me from left to right today, and I clench my teeth, hold onto the steering wheel tightly, and drive on SH1 to Uretiti Beach. This bay is simply fantastic. Like so many bays in New Zealand, it's endless and deserted. And the sand is white and very fine.
Further to the south, there were only dark beaches, where the volcanoes are. Often pretty rough or gravelly. Here it's a South Sea beach, but the palm trees are missing. Instead, it's windy like at the North Sea and there are dunes like at home. I interview three young people who were in the water for a short time to ask how warm it is. Statement: About 15°C. Yes, that's the Pacific with the cold waters coming from Antarctica. The sea is not a bathing paradise. At least not for me.
I am completely sandblasted when I return to the camper. Next to it is a DOC Campground, which I will probably visit the day after tomorrow when I come back from the north. Provided the weather is good. I will probably only see that tomorrow evening when I'm on Aroha Island. The DOC - Department of Conservation - not only manages several nature parks, etc., but also some campsites, which are always very basic and cheap. In the case of Uretiti, it is also huge, which is why it has its own office at the entrance, where I ask for information. The campground has 300 sites, some toilets, and even cold showers (there are 2 hot showers with coin slot). But the charm of this place is its location in and behind the dunes of Uretiti Beach. At 15 dollars, the campground is not exactly cheap for a DOC campground, but next door, a 'real' campground costs a hefty 42 dollars - and that's for me as an individual with a tiny camper van.
The woman from this expensive campground shows me a spot near Marsden Point where you can park for free. Nowadays, you can't just camp anywhere in NZ, as many places have designated sites and you must be 'self-contained', meaning you must have your own toilet on board. I have a portable camping toilet that I would never take out of the depths of my seat to use. But this piece of equipment legitimizes me to stay overnight at such sites. I also check out the site.
At the site in Marsden Point, I have a sensational view of the Whangarei Heads on the other side of the bay, and there is also a small toilet cabin. That would definitely be sufficient for me. The Whangarei Heads were the second place I wanted to see today because it was impossible in the red clouds yesterday. The storm is blowing my hair off my head, and I'm glad I don't have long hair!
In any case, two campsites without real comfort and electricity are conceivable here, and it always works on a 'first come first served' basis. So you have to be there early and then you can't move anymore because these open sites cannot be reserved. If they are full, tough luck. So maybe Uretiti Beach or Marsden Point. The latter is a parking bay in a residential area, so not a regular campground. There's nothing around. But in Uretiti Beach, there's also nothing except dunes. You always have to have groceries and water ready and see what the cupboard has to offer 😊☕.
Hopefully, the storm will finally be over tomorrow. I inspect three stores where - this is really strange - I actually find something that I could possibly need...- and I'm back at my campsite 47 just before half past five, sitting on my colorful bench with coffee and sunscreen. Tomorrow I'm heading north and hopefully, I'll see kiwis up there at night.