# Tag 29 - 31 Hinkelsteine und Meilensteine

Monday morning and after sleeping in and having breakfast, the question arises: what are we going to do today?

Every new area invites exploration. After yesterday's discovery tour in the hinterland on my racing bike, it's now time to explore the immediate surroundings. Carnac is one of the Breton towns that has a large number of menhirs (standing stones). They are lined up along a road (D 196) outside the town like pearls on a string. Field after field and the stones look arranged. There are large stones and smaller boulders. There is no real explanation why they were placed here. Allegedly, scholars are still racking their brains over this. If only this weren't the home of Obelix ....

What is the purpose of all these upright and lined-up stones? There are numerous theories that serve as an explanation for the origin of the stone rows: religious monuments, moon or sun cult, calendar for agriculture or, legend has it, the petrification of the Roman army... It remains an unsolved mystery! However, the relics from this prehistoric era indicate that the stones served as sacred tombs.

Our campsite 'de la Baie' is located in close proximity to Carnac Plage. So we first go there and are impressed by the promenade and the beautiful mansions. However, everything is still closed and the pre-season is noticeable everywhere. Many beach bars have not yet opened or are just in the process of setting up tables and chairs.

But first, let's go to the stones.

As we approach Carnac, the attraction is quickly pointed out. Over 3000 menhirs are lined up here. They can be visited in four different fields, each with different sizes and formations. We are well-equipped with our bikes and ride the 4 km of D 196 up and down, looking for the best photo opportunity.

There is also a walking promenade parallel to the road, where you can experience the route on foot. In the end, you reach the 'Maison des Mégalithes' which (of course) has a souvenir shop and provides information about the history of the stones in a film show. We've had enough of the stones, so we can cross them off our list now.

The thought sneaks in that the stones were placed here in modern times and a mythical story was built around them to attract tourists. It certainly worked, if that's the case.

Back to the town.

Carnac and Carnac Plage are not far apart - maybe 2 - 3 km on the road. But there are worlds between the two parts. While Carnac town is quiet and only a few people can be seen on the street and the shops are neatly arranged, there is a lot of activity at the Plage. One boutique after another, one bar after the next, and you can feel the tourist hustle and bustle, even if there are still few people. We imagine what the place is like in the height of summer and we are grateful to experience it in a relaxed atmosphere.

Today, the 'Fishers' was opened on the beach promenade and invites us for a beer in the sunshine. Let's go.

On the way back, you can clearly feel it - the holiday apartments and houses are still in hibernation. All shutters are down and the further you get from the center of the beach, the fewer people you see on the streets.

Tomorrow is going to be another good day - I'm going to take another bike ride. My plan is to explore the Gulf of Morbihan. I'm looking for a route that will also take me to some of the locations from the Dupin crime novels. However, the route is a disappointment compared to my Sunday ride. The closer you get to the sea, the more traffic dominates the road. A constant noise accompanies me and after 1 hour, I've had enough. But now I have to push through and finish the round. At 'Port Blanc', a place also used by Dupin to take the ferry to Ile aux Moines, I can't even get to the sea because everything is blocked off and only pedestrian traffic is allowed to the ferry. Attempts to reach the promenade through side streets were in vain. Here, everything has been built and gated off by private hands. The Gulf is inaccessible.

Dupin describes in his story the advantages of the police car, which allows him to drive directly to the ferry terminal and leave the vehicle there. It's an emergency vehicle and he sees it as a privilege.

My racing bike didn't have a blue light.

The way back along the highway was unspectacular and not worth mentioning. I was back after 65 km.

Wednesday morning - we continue. We're breaking camp here. It must be mentioned that we found a really good place here. The 4 days at Camping de la Baie were very pleasant. The campsite is well-run throughout and is perfectly located for all the sights in the area. The beach of Kervillen stretches right in front of the doorstep, just 100 m away.

The tides are also active here and change the scenery every 6 hours. The beach has everything you could wish for and within 5 minutes you're back at the campsite and the motorhome. It's a great place to stay.

Our next destination is the salt marshes around Guérande, which is already outside of Brittany. It ends after crossing the Vilaine River, so the famous 'Marais de Salantes', the salt production from seawater, is already in the Loire Aquitaine department. But it still feels Breton.

And here we also come to the main locations of the Dupin crime series 'Bretonisches Gold', which I have always remembered.

Our destination is definitely the salt marshes south of Guérande, where the shootout at the beginning of the crime novel took place. This is where the beginning and the end of the story can be found, and you can also buy the original 'Fleur de Sel' here. The area is completely geared towards 'salt tourism'. There are sales halls everywhere with regional products, and the 'paludiers' also sell their salt at home in vending machines. But our goal is the exhibition of the salt cooperative 'terre de sel', which also has a large sales section. Of course, with all kinds of salt and Fleur de Sel in all variations. The debit card comes into play and the souvenir drawer in the motorhome fills up.

A road for vehicles up to 3.5 tons leads through the salt basins, which have a complicated lock system for access to the sea. We feel invited to take this route and see the 'paludiers' at work along the way.

In the distance, you can see a city sitting on a peninsula. It looks good and is supposed to provide overnight accommodation for us for the next two nights.

But at the first campsite, we are confronted with an unexpected truth. Tomorrow is a public holiday in France (Ascension Day - not only in France) and the French take advantage of the long weekend for a family trip to the sea. The first campsite only accepts stays of more than 3 nights.

We continue with an uneasy feeling. Along the coastal road to La Croisic, we barely have eyes for the beauty of the area. We need a place!

A parking area for 8 motorhomes right on the coastal road is already hopelessly full. Nearby is another campsite listed by ACSII. At the reception, they look at me with big eyes when I arrive without a reservation.

They have exactly one free spot for the weekend. Otherwise, the campsite is completely booked.

We take it unseen. And we are not disappointed. The campsite is not right on the waterfront, but only 500 m away. The 4 stars have to come from somewhere and are confirmed by the sanitary facilities and the restaurant. Everything makes a good impression.

And we sleep peacefully after our dinner in the motorhome.

Tomorrow, we will explore the peninsula by bike.